who here has been surfing this week?

Aw, what's the matter? Are you butthurt?

 

This fella is an IRI regular. I haven't seen him in a while

 

Nah, I took a couple assprin, feel better now.

 

He's good, high wave count, usually @ NS when its worth paddling out.

 

Mitchell has a empty Dog Fish beer bottle with a Surf Genie inside, pulls
the cork and she's grants another wish where to go and she's never wrong.

 

Ha! Who doesn't like a dogfish Surf Genie. Swells on the way buoys, get ready!

 

But will also drop in on you in a second! I don't think he gives a shit about anyone. lol

 

Scored super fun assateague sun mon and tues on the flying disc.

 

Those kinds of boards really shine at spots like Assateague. I always surfed there a lot in small summer surf, but i'll never forget the first summer i surfed there with a mini simmons....game changer.

 

For sure. Wasn't liking it too much in OC but when I got it on those soft peelers it was game on.

 

Had a few solid days of waves thanks to that little rain cloud. Sunday and Monday were pretty nice, early Tuesday was really good a little further east of here until about 10:30. A few days back to back to back of decent surf was much needed. Only Monday was somewhat crowded, rest of the days was pretty spread out and peaks to yourself. Now alas, someone flipped the switch back off and the lake hath returned.

 

d

I hear a lot about red tide still from the ppl i know at the gulf. did ya have to move around spots to avoid all that crap or is that south of where ya at? just curious

 

Thankfully its stayed far south of us. We did have a pretty bad bloom two years ago in October, but nothing like the funk they have flowing down out of the St. J River. Hopefully it stays out of the panhandle, I'm pretty sure that stuff that could make your dink fall off

 

I took a quick break from sending out my resume today to catch some waves on low incoming tide earlier this afternoon.

It was about waist high, a few a little bigger than that. Onshore wind 10-15mph, so it was bumpy and poor quality. I rode the LB and caught a couple dozen rides, one after another.

Before I paddled out I watched a feeding frenzy with just about every medium to large fish in the area going bananas and flying out of the water and working together to destroy the pod of fish they were feasting on. I spoke with some of the folks on the beach and we laughed about me being the only person going in the water.

Me being the intelligent person that I am, I walked about 40-50 yards down the beach, and then paddled out, yeah, that’ll keep me safe. Surprisingly the frenzy ended as I hit the water and I didn’t see anything like what I saw when I first walked onto the beach.

 

Got out yesterday right before, during, and after low tide. Knee to occasionally pecker high mushy surf. No one else around in the water and on the beach. Tons of seaweed. Water warm with some pulses of up-welling. Still, it felt great to get wet after the flat spell and heavy work load in the brutal heat. This supposed surf we are getting starting this weekend has no clean up in sight on the fore caste for these parts.

 

Today I got me some before my interviews. The swell is on the rise! I paddled out at mid - low outgoing tide, it was waist - chest and semi-bumpy, light onshore winds, it was cleaner than yesterday but not quite there yet. Rides were kinda short, I rode the 6’4” Flashback Fish, it was mostly drop in, slide, couple of pumps and it would shut down. Not too many turns and no real snaps or cutbacks. It was still fun though. Tomorrow should be much better.

 

DP re feeding frenzy, did you hear about the serious shark bite at Ft P yesterday morning?
https://www.tcpalm.com/story/news/l...-after-shark-bite-st-lucie-county/1222333002/

 

Yikes! That really sucks, hope he’s ok. That place gets pretty snarky from I recall, and the water is usually clear so you can see what’s going on. Is he a friend or acquaintance of yours?

 

O ground swell how I love thee... what a fun session this morning / afternoon!

Wind was light, making it mostly clean, waves in the waist - chest range and lining up pretty good. The tweener waves were a little soft but the sets had some juice.

I rode the 6ft M-80 as a quad. On my first wave I went for a backside round house snap off the lip and I ripped it a little too hard and the fins disengaged and I ate it and slammed hard on my ribs, I came up laughing at myself.

Normally on a thruster it holds and I can really twerk it like that, but the quad felt loose and required a little more finesse.

After that I got it dialed in. I won’t say I have found the magic of a quad yet but it was plenty fun. It did seem faster, easier to catch the wave and generated speed on turns pretty well.

I still prefer a thruster though. Probably will switch it back tomorrow for the larger waves. I like that extra stability when getting vertical and off the lip.

Wave of the day was a long left that allowed me to carve it up and really lean into my bottom turns and maintain speed off the top to drop back in.

I needed that...

 

DP: today none of the guys who were there yesterday knew who the dude was that got bitten yesterday.