who here has been surfing this week?

Some decent waves today at Nantasket. Bumpy but solid waist to chest, consistent, and warm water.

 

super fun friday afternoon....clean, waist to chest high...warm and sunny out. Long sesh. shots from around 5 don't do justice to how freaking rippable it was. 3-4 good turns on some waves.

 

Yeah, Nantasket was good times from 4 until dark but also funny in that the waves looked big from shore when I got there but were actually kind of soft when you got out. Took me a while to figure out not to paddle for stuff that just wasn't breaking.

Wicked drift today. Still bath water warm, too bad about dark at 7pm now.

 

Super consistent, but did you notice that even those big sets coming in were sucker sets unless you were super deep/late? I lost count of how many genuinely solid looking waves I paddled for and got skunked on... always just a little too slow or too early. Getting caught right on the lip was the norm. Felt like paddling in molasses. Once I got the timing right it was good but by then I was half paddled out. There were a few dudes out there shredding some long rides and a few huge sets that came through - and man was that water awesome!

 

Experienced somewhat the same thing here late AM to noon yesterday, but sets mostly waist high...every now and then a little bigger. Heading out for a mid-AM sesh today. After that, the honey-do list...

 

I caught a few fun ones at mid - low outgoing tide. Onshore wind made it pretty bumpy and dumpy. Didn’t stay in long, but thankful for the ones I got.

 

Some of the bigger sets late yesterday around 6:45.
Earlier there were three or four sets that came in that were much bigger - way on the outside peaking. Got caught inside during one that sent me to shore to catch my wind back. Took them right on the dam head lol. I went back out though cause there was a grom next to me who took the pounding too... and stayed out after lol. Tough little dude.

 

Don't know where Mitchell is taking those pics, or when, but Friday afternoon from State to TPTSNBN was one closeout after another. I need to meet his travel agent, his fucaster or his photog. I was the only fool out, literally, from State to TPTSNBM. It was lousy. So, if that's IRI, buddy, then more power to youse & the Del crowd 'cause no way was anything like that in the water down south.

Tried again Saturday (today). Guys were catching waves & then getting thumped within 10' of takeoff. Closeout Citay. For every wave I nailed I either pulled back from the closeout abyss or took yet another thumping closeout.

Swell direction on this day was a beeeeeyatch.

Just the facts, ma'am.

 

Pretty good couple of hours in the early evening in Cape May. Nice night to be out and in the water. Chest to shoulder high sets. Wish I could have stayed out longer, but it was getting dark and I had to go visit my mom down there. That’s why I was down there. It’s always good to get some waves on my day off. I’ll probably be back in a suite, if not the 4/3 next time I’m in the water. I’ve got some traveling to do work. Water was still lower to mid 70’s and pretty nice and comfortable.

I guess it was a nice cap off to a crappy, but not too crappy Summer.

 

Yesterday was so fun. Chest-shoulder glassy barrels. Found a new sandbar that was good from mid high all the way through the low. Definitely some barrels that would just shut down on you but I got a few that were really good. Perfect weather, wind, and water temp. Surfed with a few buds. It was a good day!

I will say, SI had this one pegged pretty good...accurate report 5 days out rarely happens. Glad it did!

 

Nice! Glad you caught some good ones! How is the water quality down in NC? I was considering trekking down there for the weekend... but with six stitches in my leg second guessed things and didn't go. As others mentioned it was close out city in Maryland.

 

SNC is bad right now. I surfed with my bud from Wilmington and he said with all the runoff, water quality will be bad there for who knows how long.

Yesterday the water was super nice in Nags Head.

We had a large tarpon (we think) and another large sea creature come up near us. All kinds of action out there. Bait fish, porpoise, and clean set waves.

I would not go in the ocean at anytime with stitches. Last thing you want is a doctor scraping infection out of your wound...

 

I was one town above you in Wildwood Crest. The lower tide in the early afternoon was better there. Waist to chest, nice drawn out lines fighting through the NE winds. Went back out later and it was closed out, with howling NE winds. No good. Irish weekend and the custom car show topped off the evening. Crashed at a buddy's motel room so I didn't have to drive home.

 

got out this a.m in melbourne beach. Big and dis organized in a few spots but found a decent break and paddled out, Tough ass paddle out but well worth the work managed to connect the sections and haul ass and escape out the back at the end of each ride, switched up from my 9'2 walden to my 7.2 ricky carrol set up as a thruster this time and felt like i nailed every cut back and scored a few floaters by accident or necessity . headed to a local shelter in fells mere called the hope center Its always good to share the stoke one way or another.

 

Surprise session out of blue - knee/thigh high turned into random sets of waist/chest long lines,
Beautiful foamy water, about 6 surfers on the entire beach and good vibes all around. Surfed til dark and arms fell off lol... now at the rink strapping on “the tools of ignorance” as Brian Boyle and Jeff Norton like to call them. Come on Wednesday!!
More big swell comin we hope

 

I tend to stay away from TBT..... what whatever that is....after the first few fall storms. it seems like the energy pulls all that loose sand from the inside onto that middle bar and just make it section badly on pretty much any swell that isnt just little peaky wind swells.

 

Yank, I went not with Mitchell but I found good surf both Friday afternoon and Saturday mid-morning. Sat def had closeouts but there was plenty on offer. I typically get the shaft so I am fairly certain I simply got lucky with spot selection!

 

I spent a few hours chasing down onshore wind swell garbage. It had some size and there were fun ones that I rode for sure, but overall it wasn’t nearly as good as forecasted. Still good to get out though. I rode the 6’0 M-80, but wished I had ridden the LB.

 

Awesome! Sounds like a really good day! It's always neat seeing wildlife in the water. Glad to hear the water quality is good in northern obx.

And true surfing with an open wound is probably a bad idea. But it was sealed shut fairly well after 5 days of healing.

Hang in there Wilmington area people.

 

Wind's been off up here in MoCo... thought about hauling my azz down to CM, but didn't. Busy weekend with the fam.