who here has been surfing this week?

Lmao that was funny.

 

I've forgot more waves than most of ya'll will ever get. Cause I'm old. That don't make me dead yet LOL. Still hungry for more. "I want to go for a walk".

Surfing has ruined my life. Life is goode!

 

Noontime and late afternoon sesh after work. Chest high, strong northward drift, lots of closeouts and much paddling. Took my older son's Austin 8-6 round pintail (he's in Texas). Nice, fairly heavily glassed board.

 

I was given custody of a buddy's board when he was in transit for a couple years. It was a 8'0" single fin step deck Herbie Fletcher that was signed and shaped for Josh because Herbie was good friends with Josh's Dad in Philly. It was forward weighted and thick - 3"

It was a fireball going downhill, but I was scairt I would damage it (Josh is a big badass dude from Philly) so I never took it out in maxing surf, but it would have shined. I'm trying to figure out how to get or make a similar shape. Dream dream dream......

 

Yep, this exactly. Got out after work yesterday for about an hour. A whole lot of work for very very little payoff. Better than not surfing, but frustrating. On paper I've been surfing quite a bit the past couple weeks, like 3-5 days a week, yet I'm only slightly more stoked than I was about a month ago, when it seemed like it had been flat every day forever. Almost def the worst September since I moved back here in 2015... maybe not in terms of number of surfable days, but I don't think I've had a single long ride on a clean head high wave this month. Some of that has been inability to dawn patrol on work days and inability to drive north or south to take advantage of wind situations, but I do have a window of surf opportunity pretty much every single day, and usually things line up for at least a few sessions this time of year. Frustrating.

 

^^^Today is more of the same bullsh!t conditions we've had a lot of recently. There's swell, but the wind is wrong the the conditions suck. Time to quit surfing and take up kite surfing... if only I had the money.

 

Yesterday was all tall and green - then I trek there after busting azz at work to go early ... and it’s blown out crap. Didn’t even get wet, just left to do honeydew list and gripe.
It’s depresssing - almost afraid to keep excitement for weekend going... looks to be awesome fun on screen, but liable to turn sour with this weird azz wind crap. Someone post some headnhigh glass rides so we can surf/live vicariously!

 

It's gonna be a junk fest for the next week down here - waist to chest with 15 mph plus onshores. I like LBCrew's idea, maybe it's time to take up kite boarding. But I'd prolly hit a condo, I'm not a great sailor.

 

I'm in the same boat as you down here. Every time I get a chance to go the winds are bad. Very frustrating. But I'm not yet to the point of wanting to kite surf. F all that noise. The NW winds forecast for here early next week better hold true.

 

Got a quick high tide session in before work. I rode the 6’4” Flashback Fish. It was waist - chest, fat and crumbly, a few were really fun. Not great overall but I’ll take it!

 

Got out for a few this morning... Wind was no good, but there was swell and it felt good to get wet. Chest +.. Got a coulpe that held up. Not good but still fun

 

Been in the HH range and clean since i got here in playa grande on Monday. Have had luck with the high tide times. Paddle out at sunrise for a quick session before tide gets to low. Tides coming in now, should be fun around 3/330 for a session before hitting the bar. Wrote about the first half of my trip in the trip thread, so I'll leave it at that. Time for a cat nap

 

That was cool. They search out uncrowded waves or are out when we don't bother. Unlike those 4-star azz clowns that infiltrate the sand bars I surf when the waves/winds are perfectly good for traditional surfing. As long as they SAFELY keep their distance I'm OK with it. I'm not at the point of Clownface/Tow Ins obsession. Yet.

 

I'm the same with SUPs. I've had many great sessions SUPing at spots too far away to prone paddle a surfboard. I'm talking miles. But I'd never THINK about doing at a surf spot.

 

Posting about my trip in the trip thread, but i pretty much just hung around today until the tide filled in for the afternoon sesh so I'll post about it here while wifey gets ready to head out tonight.

Meant to only take a cat nap and slept longer then i wanted. Wifey woke me to tell me to check the waves. Winds went onshore. Not hard but definitely not light. It looked ok. I was seeing both lefts and rights that looked fun. Size dropped a bit to chest high with shoulder high guys rolling through every once in awhile.

Didn't catch a ton of waves, which seems to be normal around here. Even with the locals. I mentioned it in the trip thread, the wave is great, the line up is tough to figure out. Im getting into a rhythm with it though. Anyway caught two stand outs. First was a left which iv been avoiding due to my leg/hip aids. It got a bit soft but with a 14 and 20 second period combo swell....PLENTY of punch nice drawn out cutback and that was it. The leg hurt, but not as bad as before i left for the trip. The best wave was a right. Lip was crumbling but was able to get around it with lots of speed for a snap then pumped through the inside and hit the end section. GOT WORKED heading back out. Took that one to far in. But well worth it.

Hope the rest of you guys got some! Looks like the EC is getting some swell this week?

 

Sunday afternoon until Thursday morning is looking like October is kicking off righteous!

Mid period with offshore winds. I could get used to this...subtropical goodness!

I might actually be getting into a surf rhythm...turns are crisping up, Taking drops later into the pit. Man I love surfing. How about you guys? How deep is your love?

“Could this be love...”

 

Some fun waves today in Rhode Island. Chest high and warm water. Some guy was out there with his lady, I assume, pushing her into waves. She finally caught one. A great wave, riding it all the way to the shore. The stoke was alive.

 

This morning before work was choppier and more disorganized than yesterday but a little smaller - mostly waist high.

 

Are you seeing more closeouts down there from this swell direction?