who here has been surfing this week?

I just got back from a really fun session this morning. I paddled out well before sunrise. There was just enough light and waves looked fun so I didn’t wait to get in. I grabbed the 6’ M-80 and paddled out at a certain spot on the reef that I have dialed in.

It was bigger than it looked from the beach. Chest - head high and semi clean with a little breeze from the SSE, which at times was nearly calm.

It was really consistent early on at low / mid incoming tide. Lefts and rights, but mostly lefts. To beat the first section you had to be fast and then once you got past that you might smack the lip and then almost get clipped as it closes out, so either you kick out or straighten out, or get blasted lol, either way it was all good. Got a good work out in with all the duck diving and waves caught, didn’t sit around too much till the end.

I got nearly 3hrs in before the incoming tide started to make it deep. It’s breaking through the high tide still but there’s a wait for it and you have to make sure you’re in the right spot. I waited for a while to get my last ride of the session and took a ride to the beach and bellied it in the last few feet.

 

Caught the best waves of the trip this morning. Got on it early, didn't have much time as we had a full day planned today. It was shoulder/HH. Offshore. Tide full enough in the morning to make grande do its this. Perfect A frames. Not the biggest day of the trip, but best conditions and i got the place figured out now. Best wave was a right. Quick barrel right off the takeoff, then had a wall to play with for 100+ yards. Honestly don't even remember the second half of the wave at this point in the day. Im loving this place.

 

Friday afternoon maryland nugs:

 

A lot is tide dependent of course. From what I saw while in the water, there were more closeouts on Wednesday, less yesterday, and less so mid-morning today. Also, this morning was considerably cleaner surf-wise than it's been most of this week.

 

That is the lull swell before the mids filter in for dayzzz. We should get 5-7 days of wavez with decent to good conditionz. Take lots of pics this next week...I bet u get some good ones!!!

 

Yeah this was just a windswell leftover from the E winds we had yesterday...3 feet @ 7.

 

Fun lines at Nantasket today. Waist high little peelers. An array of boards in the line-up and good vibes all around. Sitting at The Red Parrot, sipping a post-surf rum and coke right now, gazing at the ocean. Life is good. Hope you guys scored today.

 

I checked a few spots, almost paddled out but then said f it and went home.

 

Thanks, Peajay. When you're the first person in the bar you quickly reflect on your life lol. In terms of weather though, this is the epitome of a beautiful day in New England.

 

Long wait between sets but some firing ones today with a little groundswell filtering through. No inside waves. Set waves only.

Rode the short bort. Had one really good one that let me crank it off the bottom and go past vert off the top. Wave of my day.

 

My son had a soccer tourney today so I missed the first offshore day in what seems like weeks. Looks like Wednesday is the next chance I'll get to go. Fingers crossed the forcaste holds

 

describes my session before dark perfectly. No wind, oily looking surface. In between sets, the ocean was just a lake of ankle high nothing....then long lines would appear, low and thick outside, then feel the bottom, stand up and reel off down the sandbar. All rights and allright.

 

Yesterday afternoon @ State was againe Closeout Citay.

Today (Saturday) @ State & all the way down through OSV: close out after close out, literally from dawn to dusk. Town wasn't much better. Most guys not catching anything including close outs. Wind not a factor, glassy for hours, this was wasted due to this swell direction. Nothing was reeling, nothing at all, all day long today.

Buddy of mine reported 60+ riders in the water @ IRI this afternoon.

Surfline is pimping this swell as "historic."

 

Sitting in line at San O waiting for the gates to open. Got up here early, but still about 50 cars here ahead of me. Must have watched another 100 pull up after me.

Hoping I get my 15 bucks worth

 

Still plenty of swell... sub par conditions persist. Beautiful day to be in the water.

A special shout to local legend, Billy Caldwell... who's paddle-out was today at his favorite spot, The Cove. Never a hassler, and always had the biggest smile you could imagine. A good man, in and out of the water.

 

Get some good ones?

 

F all of you that scored lately!!! Sorry, that was just jealousy talking. I am getting over a cold that kicked my arse and then I was in NC for the weekend. Glad everyone scored!!

 

Cheers to Billy C. Sounds like a cool cat- sorry for your loss LBC.

Actually wasn’t as big as I was hoping. I had the 5’11, 6’8 and 8’0. Took the 8’0 out from 630-9 and caught a ton of rearrrrry long lefts. They were mostly chest to head.

The South swell kind of looked like it was missing the point but hitting churches head on. Too many people at that wave though. No joke 200 people. Lowers was looking magical through the binoculars too. Again, 200 people.

Gonna try to go to uppers tomorrow and go in to work late-maybe a thinned our crowd. Swells supposed to peak tonight so it should be better. We shall see.

Ps- definitely getting a state parks pass.