who here has been surfing this week?

In the process of moving and renovating my kitchen/living room before I get there, so I have not gotten out much recently. Couple in the am but not enough. Winds have been tough here in Jerz but everyday I get a call from someone in NY saying it’s firing.
Evening surfs in the fall are my favourite... Few more weeks and I should be back in business.

 

Had fun Saturday, all day beach day with fam and surfed with friends in the afternoon, got small coverups with no exit and got to crank a turn or two. I also bodysurfed and got tube clip or two with the go pro. Overall Saturday was tits, just an amazing beach day with some waves, beers, picnics and everything one dreams local summer to be.

Surfed OC again Sunday and in the middle of a suite ride some joker's longboard clocked me in the head.

upon catching an unsolicited noggin knock I pretty much lost my shit and told him he is not a grown man, but a clown as grown men can control their gear. I told him to get out of the water and think about it. He kept jawing about how he was sorry, and he didnt mean to let go of his board. I told him sorry doesn't take the growing egg off my head and he needs a time out. He was saying he was staying and within 30 seconds a set wave caught him, brought him in and then 3 more waves sent him in where I assume he contemplated the error of his ways. These waves were MAYBE chest hi and he struggled with them



why are there so so so many clowns?

 

Been surfing a lot lately and working a lot lately. Not much time to browse the forum or post. Got a trip out to Southern California next month. Stoking to get away.

Had a really fun session today with my girl and buddy. Very lully, but when the sets came in they were clean and lined up. Saw the Gravy shredding nearby too. Not a bad weekend.

 

Shades of the Ol' Skool Fourumme lol shreddin' the posted pics, gotta luv it!

 

Was at state til around 1:30. Some closeouts but got a few good rides. Too far south and it was crazy backwash. Anyone know an albino looking dude with a blue and white ashton shorty?

 

Saturday morning was clean, long thi to waist hi's. Was surprised when a buddy wanted to roll, he's generally scared of the ocean n all its wonder, but he wanted to surf n that window was dwindling this year. he caught a wave n was grateful just with that despite puking thereafter. Sunday was choppy, didn't think i'd be the only with a LB out there but there i was. They were fast, drifty, chest hi. i caught a good handful, ran into another buddy (the other idiot with a LB) who witnessed a shark on 13thE feeding - rare to see from the beach at Folly. Was catching some dbl floaters that day. looking good this week into next week in the forecast

 

I feel bad for you that you’re that self conscious. It’s a good thing you’re not me

 

State looked slightly better than campgrounds or OSV; I just figured State would be a SUP-zoo & skipped it. Cool that you got some in those conditions.

It's a freaky place, particularly the OSV, but I haven't seen any albinos out there. Yet.

 

Just got back from CR last night....late. Caught a ton of really fun waves, essentially head high sets everyday. Saw that today the forecast for home was waist high with onshore winds and low tide. Hoping winds would be light early i decided I'd go.

It was crappy. Thigh high junk. Winds were heavier than i was hoping for. Caught one left then got out. I saw a fin, couldn't tell if it was dolphin or shark. After being out and looking im 90% sure it was a dolphin, but waves weren't good anyway so whatever.

As much fun as CR was.... it feels really good to be home. Weird. Beautiful sunrise this AM. Crappy waves. Water cold compared to CR. Air in the 60s. Fall weather. Seems strange but i couldn't help but have this feeling of reuniting with an old friend. CR is amazing. But home is home. And home is good.

 

Been fun here the last few days. Got a nice hour in right before sunset on friday, glassy, solid chest high sets. Gorgeous sunset, good vibes all around. Then saturday afternoon surfed from 2 till about 530... knee high and crumbly with the tide too high when i first paddled out, but as the tide dropped the wave machine turned on and occasional chest to head high sets started coming through way outside. Not entirely clean and many many closeouts, but got a ton of very good, very long rides. Yesterday was pretty bumpy but solid groundswell energy coming through on the sets again, got a 45 min mid tide session in the afternoon with some fun drops and a couple that lined up all the way in.

Changed my work schedule as of this morning to start an hour later, which means dawn patrols are back on the menu (some days they'll only be for 35-40 min, but pretty much guaranteed at least that long any day of the year now). Celebrated the schedule change properrely with a little over an hour of semi-clean chest to shoulder high waves at first light this morning. The closeouts persist, and the lines were a little bumpy and mixed up, but it's all good. Four days of solid fun surf, multiple long rides all the way to the beach in every session, and the forecast looks decent to good every day for the next week. I am stoked.

 

Took the family onto beach with truck for the first time this season. Drove up to empty spot, surfed peeling 4 foot lefts with a slight onshore breeze. Then ran around with my sons on the beach for awhile, perfect sunny day. Got lunch and brews. Summer is for the birds!

 

Monday Morning Delmarva....smaller than over the weekend, but still clean and the swell periods are coming down which is helping. Mellow sesh before work. Hoping the size ticks up a bit midweek as forecast.

 

^3/2s already huh? Looks fun!

 

Gorgeous, Mitch... That's the stuff Fall is made of. At least in my mind!

 

not me! trunked it and was just fine - water low-mid 70s, no wind. Pretty stoked to be in October and I haven't had a scrap of rubber on yet this fall.

 

Nice!!!

 

Incredible weekend of surf up here in NE. 15 second energy does beautiful things to our rocky coast. Plus 2 straight days of sun and offshore winds, I mean how often does that happen?

I pushed my 52 year old body to the limits. Still recovering...



Photo from Ralph's Pics.

 

ahhhh....the tangerine sunrise over the glassy sets this AM was very nice. Super fun longish period waves just lining up. I was like a machine for 2.5 hours...then I ran out of gas! Tomorrow I hope to resume with a bit of increase in the power and size.

That is a nice left Sigmoney!

 

WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAT!?

That's literally exactly what CR looked like at the beginning of my trip last week.... except i ws taking the rights!

I need to take a mini trip up north this fall/winter