Wave selection and timing

Good thread, good discussion.
...I may cut back on the pre-sesh caffeine as well.

 

Skip the caffeine and instead take a couple puffs of herb. If you get too high, just wait 30 minutes to an hour an you’ll start to come down and you’ll be nice and calm and will be able to go into chill mode easier when you get slammed by a wave and held down. It doesn’t take my energy away either, like alcohol does.

When hung over I’m always sluggish compared to just the herb. In fact, Mary J is also good for things like arthritis and inflammation, so your whole body should feel a little better leaving your muscles relaxed and require less oxygen making it more likely to conserve energy.

It’s science.

 

Having a spot that dialed in must be sweet. Sounds like that spot has rocks that don't shift around a lot. In the Delmarva the sand is shifting constantly

 

id say the best experience u can get it is just going out and taking waves on the head.as stupid as that may sound,the thing that holds most of us back is failure,gettin worked..when u learn to somewhat enjoy a beating,then ur confidence soars and ur not afraid to wipe out and u will take off on anything,and that's how ppl get the wave of the day.just one of those freakish waves that closes out but stays open lol.

paddlin closeouts is good practice,helps u with ur late takeoffs,timing,etc.just remember,only surf when a lifeguard is present

 

Set waves will come as soon as you start peeing, especially if you have been holding it for a while.

 

first wave of the set- puts you in position to get licked by rest of set but...
1) will hit the bar or reef JUST RIGHT as it wont have other waves washing on it
2) wont have a wreck of bodies you have to dodge from kooks who take subsequent waves

 

When its waist to chest and lined up and not throwing I like to slalom it makes it more fun. Second wave works for me, first wave sucks some water out so second wave is steeper. On little days under belly high first wave is usually best.

On OH days I like to wait for the one that calls out my name.

 

always take two bong rips before you paddle out

 

Go for every wave, every time.

 

Wave selection is the worst mind game ever. You get too picky, and you end the day with a low wave total. You get too greedy, and you end the day with pains, fatigue, and not much accomplished. What helps me is before I go out to the lineup, I have already told myself the goal for the day... whether its to simply have fun (whatever happens happens), or to get a good workout (go them all and build up your cardio), or to fine tune a technique (then, yes be very picky and allow yourself plenty of rest and oxygen between waves). If I have a game plan, then I don't have to make these micro decisions so often between waves.

As far as wave sets, karma will always win! If you go for the first... the 2nd wave is going to be better. If you had taken the 2nd, you'd be looking up at the 3rd wave in the set and wondering if that was the one you should have dropped in on. It's endless! The mental workings of the etiquette, the physics of the environment, and our desire to improve and yet have fun are all at odds.

 

Mr. B welcome back from time out!

Dude seriously though, your doing great. You havnt been surfing long, your older with bionic hips, and just made a jump down to a SB....i think i told you this before but most guys in your situation wouldn't even think about going to a SB. Your not having instant success, which is expected. But your making major improvements. Good on you man. It's quite admirable.

Alot of this stuff is experience. Diffrent waves, tides, swell directions, swell periods, so on and so forth. You're putting in the work and making big strides. It'll come. But while on the topic I'll say this. Big long period swells get alot of hype. They CAN be amazing. But they can also be a complete bust. Especially down by me. Alot of times it can be a big close out with a shoulder. Of course if it's makeable from the peak that's where you want to be. But if it's big close outs there is no shame in having the makeable shoulders. Why get closed out on constantly? Always depends on the day. But quality always beats quantity in my opinion. I get quite picky when it's big. If im not feeling good about it im not going. You just can't be tooooo picky and sit idol.

Example. Sometimes when it's big I'll paddle for 3 or 4 waves and pull out of every one thinking it looks like a closeout as it begins to peak. Just to watch every one peeeeeeel. I'll make a mental note of that. If it looks like a closeout at the last second, go anyway, there peeling. Then I'll start getting some good ones. Obviously if they are actually closing out.... don't go

 

as Christian fletcher once said,if u came out the barrel u weren't deep enough

 

Angled take offs when it is steep and fast. You barely even bottom turn.