I love it when

I love it when...

I'm the only one in sight, getting waves after a long day at work, until dark. I don't care if it's August or February... shortboard or longboard... big or small. That's why it's an easy call for me where to go... where there's the fewest number of people.

I used to drive to where it was best, fight the crowd, hope there was somebody taking pictures... because that meant it was the best spot around. That was decades ago. I don't need that anymore. Although I never felt compelled to compare myself to other guys in the water, I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing out on the best waves, every swell.

Now I know what spots work in what conditions, and I know how to avoid the crowd and still get plenty of quality waves. That it might be breaking a little better... or maybe a foot bigger... somewhere else doesn't phase me at all anymore. I just want to surf, and if at all possible... alone.

 

Amen.

 

Good comment as well. I enjoy out smarting everyone. My best session so far this year was 100% alone. The waves were cracking at all the "good" "known" spots. I figured everyone would be lazy and not put in the effort so I went to a spot that takes a bit of effort and time to get to. Wave after good wave my thoughts were "I hope you MFers are enjoying the cameras and the hassle cuz I got this all to myself bitches". No pics, no fan fare just complete satisfaction between me, my self and I.

 

Ouch. Not nice LBro’ - the comments seem to be fairly tame for taking a giant crap on half the forume...but honestly? I sorta get it when you explain the drive - I just don’t get the piss on the other guy cause he’s a slob and I’m better mentality from you. You’ve been decent and helpful to me since I came here and I legit suck 50% of the time and am the guy paddling out of the way most bigger days... legit one of those guys you talked about most days, that’s all.
And again honestly? I think the group hug thing is only because most here do NOT need to get hyped up and stressed or aggro - there’s enough of that horsemaneur in daily life and add to that there’s been hardly any dam surf.
And btw, judging from your descriptions and info, you are not JV and if you play down, be nice - it’s jot their fault lol

 

Wait? Your a teacher too??

Wow, you get a Time Out then Mr. Man.
Btw, I was a kindergarten teacher for 4 years and I 1000% agree about your description. It’s my one big regret - Coukdnt afford to live on the salary and raise a family in MA so I left it. I loved it.
My nickname was Mr. Kimble

 

Sure it is. I have fun all alone to. But what's your point? There's is none honestly.

When you listen to music, do you enjoy certain bands or genres? Is listening to music not enough?

When you eat do you not like eating somthing tasty? Id putting food in your belly not enough?

Do you work out, take vitamins, eat good, ect ect. To improve your health? Is just being alive not enough?


Don't come at me with that preachy BS man. No where in my post did i say or imply what LIbro did. I merely stated the positives of being in diffrent crowds. News flash. Sometimes your around kooks, sometimes your around really talented guys, sometimes your solo. What about pointing out the positives of any one scenario implies surfing isn't enough?

 

Dude, you need to come around here some of those surprise days when it’s sunny, oil glass days and head high 12 second peelers all day long and maybe 6 surfers out... make it like popping out of hyberbation for a day. Those days are the most memorable for me.

 

All good dude, no need to apologize, do you brother. Just realize some people aren’t into those games and just want to be left alone. I don’t mess with anybody but I can be a real dick when provoked. If someone hassles me they won’t catch another wave because I’ll stuff them and outposition them till they quit and go home crying to momma.

 

I am sorry, i was wrong, thanks. Guess i got it wrong. But do i have to agree with you? I was just sayin'...sounds like i hit a nerve here with your reply...i failed to see your point, it reads to me like the people in the lineup are a big part of it to you on those occasions, and i agree, but would like to encourage focusing on the wave i ride instead, because i fail miserably at it, other than friendly/friends/family i get thrown off by people out there, plus the competition and all the other negative stuff pales in comparison, because there is a negative, and riding waves is a positive unlike any other.
When i am wrong i admit it, so sorry, because a goodvibe crowd can be a stoker, but i must have read into your post something i do understand, like methinks i doth protest too much.
I would like to remove my ego from when i outsurf others, but maybe there is nothing wrong with it, it does seem to make me surf better sometimes.

If God invented something better than surfing, he's keeping it a secret, and unless it is a nice stoke scene, other people detract from that.

 

You didn't strike a nerve with me. Not being able to read is a pet peeve of mine. Especially when the person who can't read responds in a condescending tone.

You do realize im not the OP right? "It reads to me like other people in the line up are a big part of it to you". That's your words dude.

I love surfing. I don't have a preference who i surf around. I'll find the positive and good vibe in any scenario. Do i search out photogs? Hell no. Does that mean it can't be cool if ones out and gets a good shot of you? Do i search for compliments? No. Doesn't mean it's not nice to get one. When i am around not so talented surfers do i enjoy feeling "superior"? No. But it does usually means more waves which is nice. Hell I'll call other dudes into waves despite the skill.

Your assuming really hard man. Your putting words into my mouth. All i said was "i get it" and that being in a less talented crowd "has its perks". And that it's cool to get compliments. Your getting things from my post that i never said. If your going to act all high and mighty it'd be a good idea to NOT assume. If you were responding to LIbro, i get it. He straight up said that stuff plain as day. I didn't. So I'll repeat. Don't come at me with that preachy BS, don't assume or put words in my mouth, and learn to read.

Speaking of striking a nerve... seems LIbro struck a nerve in you. Not only are you responding here, but in the most annoying surfer thread as well? Is just riding a wave not enough for you? Seems like other people's thoughts really bother you

 

Sometimes, when the lineup is just too aggro, too crowded, or I just don't like the type of boartshorts that guys are wearing, I paddle in. I put my boart away. I go get my dinghy. Then I motor out to the backside of the lineup, drift a bit & start chumming the water from my bucket.

Except for the periodic screams & splashing noises from those surfer buoys, it does get a bit boring.

So, I motor back in & put my dinghy back in the shed, and then go back out to the lineup with my 23' SUP. I'm always amazed by how empty the lineup is at that point in the day.

 

BAAAAHAHAHAHAH!!! Comic relief Yank!

 

Correct. Thank you. Libro did strike a nerve because i am guilty. I don't like it about myself. I never look for it, but i think too much of myself.
Sorry i got you wrong and lumped you in with libro's post.

 

Right on, we good!

 

Its called healthy competition. Id sooner buy the guy a beer that respectfully hassles me than the faceless stressed out bouys.