who here has been surfing this week?

Saturday dawn patrol looks favorable on forecast...

so it will be blown out choppy with snow and sleet and ducks flying hither tither and yon - or maybe it’ll be great hahah
I don’t like how the swells seems to be just jetting away as fast as they do this fall. Usually we get a few days of at least something. Did you surf that day last week? Saturday? I saw a few of the usual suspects out but man it was a tough sell.

 

Get well soon man... sounds rough

 

North MoCo twas firing today. I hope my fellow Swellies in the area got some.

 

Three sessions today & I’m demolished. Good clean strong waves all day long, small around LT but then resumed OH sets. Tropical goodness.

This place emptied out on Wednesday - - gringos migrating back north for Turkey Day. Leaving me & the cool Canadians all the waves.

 

Ho lee fuk it was good today. Had to work the am so I missed when it was biggest but afternoon was still chunky and fun
Am was way heavier from what I heard
2-4 pm. Head high offshour lined up barrels. Made a couple good ones. Didn’t make a couple great ones. Fun afternoon. Wish it was a full day of fun

 

left work at 10 after I checked the cam lol.lots of detours,they had the bridge closed,my go to spots were inaccessible so I checked a close by place I used to surf years ago.epic is kind of an understatement.got to the beach around 11 still a bit north with the wind,after about an hour it turned on.this clean up set came shit had to be like 14ft.it was a legit 8-10 ft in the morning.huge thick barrels.around 130 took a break went home to recharge got back to the beach like 230,size dropped and the crowds picked up but the wind was great,was probably still 4-6'.got out the water like 4 and as im walkin away I see this stupid crazy teepee and some dude was in the perfect spot and got it,was epic for shure.so happy I left work lol

 

Wow, sounds heavy!

 

I should have went surfing today and I didn’t.

 

Yeah, i'm waiting for the Surfline piece.
Damn interwebs.

 

And.........Just like that.
goodtoepic

 

Definitely a fun day of east coast surfing. The waves sets had some size to them. Enjoyed 6 hrs of solid surf today with no crowd.

 

Of course Belmar was EPIC today... as it is everyday...

I happen to take the day off in advance and it was a blessing to get out! Very fun waves! Havnt seen much water time lately (and even posting on heren), been busy with the family which is a great thing... but it was really nice to have a day off of work and get some fun waves and spend time with family and friends.

I got out around noon and it was even better then it looked from the beach... and it looked pretty good from the beach!

The swell direction, height, tide and wind really lined up today... it was windy and cold, but I would say that the wind speed was just perfect to my liking

Amazing day, the kind of day that you remember all year

 

Oh yea... I didn't surf Belmar... sorry guys

 

It was kinda NUKING today. Got off early and shot down to the beach to be greeted by waves several feet over head and pretty damn hollow. And apparently it was a lot bigger in the am. Can’t even imagine. I was nervous enough getting out when I did. My buddy showed me a pic of a dude on a wave from the morning which had to be well over Double OH. Only freaks could have been out at that hour....

I rode that new Barnacle surfboard from soulrider. Hands down best session I’ve ever had in waves of that size.

I didn’t make any barrels.... too scared to shoot on the death pits. BUT, I did catch an absolute bomb on the outside and it had to be all of 8 feet. Wedged up on me quick and I did the ol’ turn and burn late drop. Did two nice wraps in the pocket and milked it to the beach.

Soulrider and all my buddies were pulling some heavy ones all day. What a day.

Gonna go scouring around for leftover lunch meat tomorrow.

Oh here’s one of Balaram from Jerz today, in case you haven’t seen already.

 

Yesterday was good. Saw an outside bomb early you coulda parked a bus in

 

Been quite surf deprived. Winds have been heavy alot lately. Today wasn't looking good but i decided to check it anyway. First glance i wasn't feeling it. Not terrible, but certainly not good. Sideshores at about 10 mph and forecasted to increase. Unorganized but i was seeing a few sections. Experience told me exactly what kind of sesh ot would be. Couple chances at some fun ones but it would come down to sheer luck, but mostly crappy waves. About to pull out and head home i said eff it. There's some chances. Tomorrow has a good wind forecast but whether or not there will be a wave is anyone's guess. Im going.

I put on my full on winter gear. Brand new 5/4, 7 mil mittens, 7 mil boots. I didn't need all of that. Suits brand new so i wanted to break it in some so i don't feel like the Michelin man on a good day. I only own 7 mil boots since i don't feel the difference between thicknesses like i do on suits and gloves. Then i just said why not go all out. 7 mil mittens. We got our first snow Thursday, wind chill had it getting like the low 30s.... time to get used to the winter gear again.

By the way, i only wear rip curl. For my 5/4s i don't care if it's the F or E bomb. Along as it's 5/4. Iv had both. Well this new F bomb has the fleece inside not only on the chest, but the arms and legs too. The entire inside is fleece. It's NICE. I don't remember my old F bomb being like that.

Anyway to the surf. I rode the new 5'7 lost. For anyone who followed the thread when i got it, you know i went with the lowest volume i could go. Not my absolute lowest. But the lowest i could go without having to worry about the extra weight of the suit in winter. Well the board still felt great. So that was the final test volume wise. I definitely nailed it on the volume.

Sesh was short. Real mixed bag of waves. Some were thigh-waist and were pushing stomach-chest. Some punchy, some weak. Some long and some short. Quite challenging honestly, to unorganized. Just had to go. It wasn't closing out like it was to shallow, it was just crumbling all up and down the wave due to terrible winds. But if you got the right ones you could have a decent sized section before hitting the crumbling closeout or you could get around it and continue on. I got 3 good ones. Winds got heavier and tide dropping, it just wasn't great. But felt good to get wet, paddle around, and get a few good ones to satisfy me in case tomorrow is a skunker.

Glad i just went despite it's looks

 

Dude that is a sick wave!

 

Surfed most of the morning north of Boston. Swell was fun enough, mostly in the knee/chest range. Sometimes bigger waves came though but lots of lulls. Deployed mitts and a hood for the first time. I definitely was missing waves as I hadn't adjusted to the extra inertia of the additional rubber. Water had a ton of junk in it, not sure if it was seaweed or dead leaves washed out during this weeks storms. Looked like that weak complimentary barley tea you get at sushi joints sometimes.

Glad I went as that was it for the week up here it seems and it's going to be too damn cold for me later this week anyways. Time to sharpen the skis.

 

We're 0 and 2 lately with these quick hit swells and short days. A late wind switch means, no surf for you.

 

Tried this afternoon in that unfiltered soup wavestrom talks about - wind pumped up and killed what was left except for those 20 minutes apart sets that went from knee/thigh to maybe chest... and then they disappeared with tide. No gloves was tough today - wind hurt. Caught two long little righties and then paddles up and down the beach hunting the fading sets til I gave up. Then the wind closed my door on my running truck with phone inside.. and locked doors. Dark out. In a towel and sweatshirt. No lie. Hull PD to the rescue and cue the ball busting...