who here has been surfing this week?

Lmao talk about bad luck!

 

I HAD to try man, I’ve been jonsing bad for a decent sesh and a few waves - but the truck? That’s next level crappola luck. The towel thing was even funnier because a lady offered to let me sit in her car with heR until someone came and then thought about it and said maybe not hahah

 

Can’t blame her Hahahaha

 

Pretty fun sesh this AM. First look and dismal. Ankle slappers. But while taking to a fisherman on the beach i saw a set come through on one of the bars. Bigger thigh high almost but not quite waist and beautiful shape with the light offshores. Knowing the tide was a bit full, i knew it'd get better through the mid tide and then crap out as it got low. So i went.

Rode the mini sims. Just me and 2 SUPs out. They were cool guys. Calling out waves for me. You had to be a hunter today. To little waves not to be. Caught a bunch of fun rights. Nice wall off the take off, pump pump, cutback, pump pump, cutback. Super fun. As the tide dropped it got crowded and the waves started losing umph. People are dumb. It's not as simple as "low tide is shallower so it'll be best then". There's a sweet spot in that mid tide on most days that's got the best shape. Im not complaining. Just find it funny people are so dumb. So everyone paddled out for the weak closeouts with 10 guys on it. I waited outside for the one last good looking set and called it a day!

 

What an amazing session this morning, chest - head high on the sets, rode the LB and was rockin and rollin! Way more fun than expected. Bigger than it looked from the beach too. Some of those sets were legit. I got a nice cover up right in front of my boss who had a good view on the paddle back out. Maybe he’ll give me some extra good leads to sell now?

 

back from being banished from the site I also surfed today. guess someone got hurtfelioma? medical condition caused by hurt feelings.

 

Caught some thigh high mush this morning. I hate you.

 

Lol At least you surfed right?

 

True, no better way to start a Sunday morning.

 

Heathen

 

no surf so yard day...sometimes just as good

 

Spent last week in SoCal
Hit different spots each day from Sunday - Thursday with some very consistent waves. Not big by any means, but super fun.
Water was super clear, and had offshore winds every morning, sometimes through the entire day. Most mornings I was chilly in just a 3/2 - should've had a 4/3 or added boots to the 3/2. Even a hood would've been smart in the cool am air temps.
Could clearly see the smoke from the wildfires...felt a little weird surfing while some much death and devastation was happening not too far away and no way to help.

 

You need to step your beer game up man!

 

Hahahaha! It’s all that was in the basement fridge!
I’m usually a Fosters Blue can or Shipyard Pumpkinhead/ Sam Adams Winter warmer

 

Friday was insane. Had a short day at work.. but the AM surf check saw... no kidding...15'+ bombs. Ridiculous. If somebody said there were 20' peaks, I'd believe them. Wanted no part of that, even if I could have gone. Nobody out. Lot's of sectiony closouts.

Early afternoon was epic. Still well overhead, but nothing like the morning. Sandbars were perfect. Lefts and rights, and offshore. Got a couple coverups but no full-on, deep barrels. It was pretty much just trying to point and shoot... and not try to take a beating. Swell kept dropping and by 4pm it was barely head high, if that.

One for the books.

Saturday morning I went hunting, and when I stopped by the beach on my way home it was knee high. How does that happen?

 

No lie sometimes it can be 15’@8seconds at the buoy at 10 pm and by 1pm next day it’s knee high around here. Crazy when that happens

 

You'ze guyz up north are psychos! Great pics, great stories. I'm pumped.

I caught some nice clean peaks chest high on Friday. Yesterday I had to help my wife early, and by the time I made it out it was honking side shore out of the north about 15 plus. I asked a couple guys in the parking lot how was it, they said the wind is on it now. (Duh!).

I told them me and the wind, we're tight. They call me the breeze. They looked at me like I had three heads.

I had the LB, and there were chest high lumpy sets, very sectiony and warbely. You had to be selective, and paddle a lot against the current but every now and then a good one would jack up on the bar and peel, then do random things.

The trick was to keep the knees real loose, and let the board and the wave do their thing. I made a few all the way to the beach, and the waves would breathe, getting fat and convex, then steeper and concave, then it would pulse and get fat againne. It was fun. Like a roller coaster, just finding the sweet spot and sometimes having to crouch thru a bouncy section, then standing tall thru the smooth parts. It was cool.

 

Hopefully gonna surf this afternoon at some point. For a little while. Have the day off and the forecast looks good.

 

Friday early afternoon on Delmarva was really good. Chest - shoulder and the sandbars have been so much better than the last few years IMO. The waves are really pushing through rather than unloading on the bar into closeouts.

Surfed pretty close to one of the top spots and I pretty much had the peak to myself.

 

A trick I picked up from a friend years ago that has never failed me: ANYTIME I start a vehicle and get out while leaving it running, I crack the driver's side front window 2-3". No exceptions, ever. Not even when it's -20, not even when it's a full on blizzard, not even when it's both of those things and I'm heating up the car for a family trip and my wife is complaining that leaving a window open defeats the purpose of warming up the car because too much cold air gets in, not even despite the fact that it is virtually impossible to lock the doors of my and my wife's current cars (subaru outback and legacy, basically the same vehicle) when they are running (if you hit the lock all doors button on door or remote with engine running, it will immediately unlock again after a split second)...

I have never locked my keys in my car since I started doing that.