who here has been surfing this week?

What??? No long coil enemas for you?? Wow, you must be disappointed!! <grin>

 

Today was just what the doctor ordered.

Took off for a mental health day. I don't do that sort of thing, but it was REALLY needed. Wasn't expecting waves, but was hoping. Figured I'd wake up and at least spend my morning on the beach. So i did. Truck was packed with my gear but i didn't even have my wetsuit on. I always wear my wetsuit if i think there's a chance at waves. Point being, i didn't think it'd be worth it. Pulled up to see ankle slappers. Sitting in the truck watching i finally saw a set. Thigh high, nice line, looked fun. That's all i needed. Suited up and went.

Turned out to be a blast. No one out. No fisherman. No one. Completly desolate. Sets were thigh high, some rare waist high guys. Steep and walled up. The left's would run for a bit then close out. The rights would run also but would soften up instead of close out. Fast little waves. Good umph. I rode my mini sims and just got a bunch of fast little race tracks. Big lofty cruisey pumps. I love that. So simple but i love it. Not those frantic pumps to hit a section or somthing. But the flowing ones. I enjoy it.

It was the perfect combination of board, waves, and mindset. Everything just complimented each other well. Mini is great on small fast waves. The waves had enough umph so you didn't have to milk anything. But were small enough to just free the mind and get into that flow state.

Ended up surfing for almost 3 hours. Great way to start a 3 day weekend

 

Those are some of my favorite type of days, good on you!

 

@Yank: congrats on the good news hermano.

On another note: Looking at the long range forecast here, it looks like it's gonna get interesting around here by Tue/Wed...swell starting around 2'-3' @26 secs and slowly building the following days.

Can't remember ever seeing a ground swell with that long an interval before, especially around here.

Stay tuned

 

Gracias buoyz

 

See? You shoulda bet on Biggsy mobile phone Swellie sports Doc lol
That’s frikken AWESOME man.
And those little bits of tendon flap and debris floating around have wrecked havoc on me the last two months so I feel your pain - literally
RICE is right!!!!

 

That's pretty cool. By next midweek the entire north pacific and U.S. west coast forecast to be getting a sizable 21+ second period swell (in purple = 21sec +). Sizable too... like peak at 6 foot+ (swell heights) in size in Southern Cal. and 8 foot + in the pac. NW. I'm sure with that period, wave faces could be double that.

 

I got up early and checked the buoy, wind, and surf on the cams. It didn’t look like it was working yet so I helped my wife get the Christmas lights up on the house, trimmed the bushes and put lights on them too, ate some breakfast and then got my LB and headed to the beach.

I wore my spring suite for the first time this Winter. When I pulled up the wind was out of the South, which at this spot means it’s gonna be semi-clean. Waves appeared to be waist high from the beach. Swell was ESE / SE rising short period windswell but it looked pretty fun. No time to waste with a mid incoming tide, I paddled out after checking it for 3 seconds.

I noticed the drift right away so had to paddle South constantly to stay on peak. I caught wave after wave for a little over an hour, each one a little bigger than the last. What started out as waist high waves, ended up chest / shoulder on the set. Most were steep and required a late take off.

Wave of the day was the largest and cleanest one I saw come through. I did a late take off on a walled up left, going frontside I dug my left arm into the wave face to slow down a bit and stabilize, I was elbow deep in this sumbitch, and it was exactly what needed to happen, after I made the drop, I cranked a bottom turn, went vertical, top turn / cutback to the right, walked to the nose as it fattened up to get to the next section where it jacked back up, jumped back on the tail, cutback to the left and milked it to the beach. I started cracking up and paddled back out shaking my head.

Next wave was similar, this time I tried it without digging my arm into the face on the drop, was going too fast and tried cranking the bottom turn and my single fin disengaged and I ate shit hard! Hahaha I got too cocky on that one.

The rest were fun but not nearly as good as those two waves. Then conditions slowly deteriorated with the wind shifting more SE and tide started to get on it. I called it after an hour and 15 minutes. Wow was that fun for what it was!

 

Pulled the trigger on a last minute snowboard trip to the North East. 20" of snow in the last few days... Drop everything and go. The pictures say the rest.

 

Looks fun ^^^

I’m ready to plow some snow. Especially with this abysmal wave forecast.

 

More fun waves today in the waist - chest range. I got in 30 minutes before low tide and stayed out for a little more than 2hrs getting the first couple hours of incoming.

Both SwellInfo and Surfline missed the boat on the forecast and report. I’m glad I know how to read a buoy and decided to go. I was the only person out (again) and caught so many waves I lost count.

Wind was light - moderate out of the South early and then it went more SW (offshore) for a good portion of the session making condition mostly clean. Waves were breaking fast and steep on take off.

I rode the LB again and had some long rides from outside all the way to the beach. Some left. Some right. The quality of the wave was surprisingly good at times and made it possible to pull out the bag of tricks on a bunch of rides.

I ended it on a positive note, getting a fast left, hand dragging bottom turn, top turn, bottom turn, off the top cutback and rode it all the way to shore the other direction.

Beautiful day today, so I wore the short John suite. Suns out guns out! Water felt great. Nice Coke bottle green color. What a weekend!

 

Fun afternoon on Delmarva....air temps in the upper 60s, swell more than forecast. Was expecting waist high....got quite a bit more....enough to break through the high tide.

Before paddling out, I got a shot of a friend I don't see much anymore blasting the top off one. I'd recognize this guy's backhand hack a mile away.

 

Had a nice waist high surf tonight. Probably was only out for about an hour and 45 minutes. Stayed out until well after sunset. My first time out in over a month. It was real foggy out. I was more than good in a 4/3. My head was cold, but only because it’s been so long since I got in the water. Lack of conditioning.

Going to California later in the week. Hoping I can squeeze a couple in there.

 

Where is this?

 

Well, I'm back from hunting for 9 of the last 10 days. I took down a big 6 pointer on Saturday- my last day hunting. Dropped him at 60 yards with my .270 Winchester. I'm trying to put a picture of him on here but it won't let me browse to the photo on my work PC? It just asks me to enter a URL? I also beat a long-time buddy in shuffle board quoits for the first time ever and Bama won the SEC again. Everything was coming up Chavez. Now, back to surfing.

 

Caught some knee - thigh glassy sliders on the LB this morning at sunrise. Light offshore wind for almost 2hrs and then the South wind started picking up so I called it. Gorgeous morning though, very peaceful out there.

 

Congrats on bagging a tasty critter.

Go to "imgur" (Google it) and upload your file there, it's easy and free. After you upload, imgur will give you an url to copy and paste over here.

 

Pretty fun yesterday afternoon. Good waves. Light offshores. Water cool but not cold. Still fine in a hooded 4/3 with 5mm boots and 3mm gloves. Not even cold enough for an ice cream headache yet and its the first week of December. I'll take it.

 

With temps in the 50's here yesterday, I regressed back to my 4/3 and felt great for a 3 hour clean beautiful session. Rare to wear that suit in Dec.