Oh man, the fucast was looking good for tomorrow but the winds might be a problem. Hopefully that duetchbag Santa gives me a belated present of light am winds so I can get some tomorrow for having to work today. At least we worked it so everyone is only on a 6 hr shift and can get out early. Merry Christmas Phauckers, hope some of you all get to score some today
Lack of conditioning, due to too much work and not enough surf recently! Most of us aren’t retired like you are, ya jerk! Merry Christmas to you, Barry! And the rest of you!
I will say, I haven’t done nearly enough surfing this fall - just a crap season this year, but I work out a good amount and am pretty strong, but that sesh with Manik killed me after three hours. I was winded after the first 1/4 mile paddle out at a fair pace so it’s true: the best workout for surfers is surfing! The ones who can miss a month and jump right in are either really young or have perfect technique and can conserve energy with clean form from years of practice. Least ways, that’s what it seem to me.
I got my stitches out today. I'm good to go for this weekend. It'll be my first time getting wet since early November.
Did have some fun sideshore swell out on the Washout last Saturday. First one in the water. Took out the 7'2" hog molly. Had a blast for what it was worth, waist to chest hi n it wasn't as cold as it could've been. caught plenty n took several to shore. hoping the same with this upcoming sat morning, will have to manage getting my car into the tire shop when they open up n hitchhike to the beach via a friend - fingers crossed. if not, i'll get out there Sunday funday
Hoping to get some some fun ones this weekend down here in FL. Holidays are usually hectic for me, combined with a lack of waves on the Atlantic side, it's been a crummy December.
Surf was fun this morning, chest - head with some slightly overhead sets and mostly clean with calm - light offshore wind. A little drained out and wonky at first light, but it improved through the morning. I got a head high wave as soon as I paddled out, then noticed I was drifting so I paddled back to the peak and stayed there the remainder of the session while others drifted out of sight. Waves were a little inconsistent early but if you paddled and stayed on peak you were rewarded. As the tide filled in after an hour or so, so did the waves. It got more consistent and for about 2 more hours the waves had power and size. Then the tide started to get on it with a mid incoming high tide. 3+ hours and I was ready to get a bite to eat and have a few beers, and watch college football, which is what I’m doing now.
Finally got wet. Late morning on the incoming tide. Bout waist high. A bit of paddle and a bit cold. I was a bit over hyped since its been so long. Took a while to settle down, relax, and get my bearings. I caught some decent ones, I felt a bit slow but my timing was good. Post session WaWa bacon, egg, and cheese shorti. It felt good. Surf as much as you can, it can be taken away in the blink of an eye.
So fun this morning. Been a while since I got in the water. The tide kinda killed it where I was at. But can you honestly ask for a better New Year's weekend? Air temp in the 80s, water temp in 70. Sun shining, and people outside enjoying the day.
Took a trip north and scored. Got in at 10 p.m., slept in the back of the minivan, woke up and pretty much saw this right out in front of where i was parked. Manik...did you get on it? I was all over your territory today. Surfed three spots. This spot was the best.
Nice Mitchell!! Glad it was working for you!! Bummed I missed out on your trip up and getting a session in, hopefully next time.
Scored fun surf in NJ yesterday. From sunrise through 10AM...fun the whole time. Snapped a few shots as I was leaving.
Jersey was doing it’s thing yesterday. Chest to shoulder South swell and hard offshores. Just the way I like it. Perfect size for pigdogging. Late backside drops, just as the wave pitched, were the name of the game. I pulled into too many barrels too count and took some mean drops. Got quality rides in the green room. Ultimately, I didn’t make any clean exits. Some mediocre doggy dooring. They were running pretty fast. Saw Gravy and Hammer about out in the line up. They were killing it. Looks like a New Years sesh in the works!
More fun waves today on the LB. Size came down a notch from yesterday but still had solid sets around chest / shoulder range and much cleaner and more organized. Great day for the LB or Fish with the long peelers. Like yesterday it started slow on a drained out low tide but with more water as the tide filled in it got poppin!
Got out today. Have been getting out here and there. But man im getting depressed! The sandbars are TERRIBLE since florence. Just to damn shallow. Every wave closes out or just races waaay to fast. No matter the tide. I have been having fun though. Pulling into closeouts is just about your only option sound here these days. Not to bummed as i know things will work themselves out. But in the mean time, I'm going to have to head back Mr. Bs way. Or south. Or anywhere but here.