who here has been surfing this week?

Indoor lacrosse is weird. The goalies are like hockey goalies instead of regular lacrosse goalies. I actually think they use hockey like type goals too. Could be wrong about that though. My old lacrosse coach was the goalie for NYs indoor lacrosse team, the new york saints. Funny because i couldn't remember the name so i googled his name. Turns out he also played for the long island island lizards (normal lacrosse. Much better) and ended up coaching the Bridgeport barrage and continued to coach them when they became the Philadelphia barrage. Apparently the won a championship under him. Cool. Learn somthing new everyday.

But yeah my point was indoor lacrosse is weird

 

30 waves a day is a good wave count. Glad you got some...back to reality, like the rest of us.

 

Poetic LB...thx!

 

Took off early yesterday to be greeted by walled up closeout garbage. I’ll be positive and say I got some visions, but it was too cold and windy for me to thoroughly enjoy.

That all changed today. Forecast was knee to waist, but there were consistent stomach to chest high sets where I was. It was glassy and slack wind too. Really got to put my new JS to work. The thing goes insane. Plenty of lefts and rights to rip all over. I should’ve had a board like this a long time ago.

Maybe some waves on the foamie or simmons tomorrow.

 

Finally got out after over a month.. had a good portion of the mid-day freed up .. arrived at one of my go to spots to see some clean waist+ swell breaking. Sun was out, wind was light, air ~34F, water probably around 40F... I did not care.. needed to get wet and some wave time. Just a few guys out, some nice peeling A's were to be found a bit north of this picture.. was antsy to get suited up and get on it before the incoming tide and wind would switch, so I did not wait for a good set to photo.

Surfed for aboot an hour, nice little right w/ walls to cut a bottom turn, then re-enter, cut / fade back in the pocket and then a zippy little inside section. The left wasn't bad either. Pretty much had "pick of the litter", with so few buoys out.

I feel refreshed.

 

I'm back from the game. It was like being at a Chuck E Cheese's on meth. They blast music during play. Songs like "Whoot there it is" and "Mambo number 5" I'm used to Eagles fans and their madness. This was a bad LSD trip surrounded by Prep school kids

 

Is that a great-white shark fin I see out there??
No wonder you are religious!! <grin>

 

Be interesting to know total trip cost to see what each wave cost.
Once we all know that, none of us will ever take a surf trip again......

 

Friday was a great day up in NE if you knew where to look. Went down to RI to look for some nooks sheltered from the forecasted W winds. RI is a time consuming place to scour because of the geography. The coast is made up of what I like to call "fingers" which are peninsulas conncected by bridges and channels. Once you committ to one finger, you likely dont have time to go back up and around to the next. Anyways, I ended up surfing a wave I have never surfed. A nice right hand point that is pretty close to a popular beach break. Handful of guys out, all nicely spread out in the takeoff zone. Everyone was getting waves, hooting eachother in and enjoying our numbing paradise. Got a few good set waves that connected inside, a few technical drops I made but couldnt get around the second section and a few smaller ones on the way back out.

I have to admit- I hadn't surfed in a month or so due to some health issues. When I rolled up the beach was messy as hell, it was 25 degrees, and I was solo. I thought about how easy it would be to pack it in and turn around, mentally blaming the pain in my insides as my reason for not suiting up. I took a walk down the beach and I saw a few guys on the point. I had already missed a few days of waves recently, worried about my health. I couldn't wait any longer, I had been replaying those missed days in my head for weeks and my FOMO was painful.

As I made the long walk back to my car after the session, I couldn't help but think of how happy I suddenly was. It is absolutely crazy how one session of good waves can turn around your whole mindset. Took me about 30 minutes to feel my feet again. I drove home in a state of pure joy, far from the feeling I would have had if I had packed it in.

Sorry for the dribble. I guess what I am trying to say is "when in doubt, paddle out"

Manik- looks like you may have been at the same spot??

 

Great post, Mass. Well articulated. I know that post-sesh feeling. Stoked for you.

 

It's been 5-6 weeks for me as well. Combination of 5-6 weeks of non-stop gnarly 2XOH surf, persistent rain, extreme tides and a string of illnesses.

Forecast yesterday was for 6'-7' @ 15 secs and all day offshores, but the local buoy was registering 5' @ 12 secs...much more manageable.

Fairly clean and consistent with a manageable weekend crowd, water about 49 and wind around 8-10 knots. Paddled out using the old man escalator (rip next to jetty). Surf was breaking a lot further out than usual, maybe a solid 1/4 mile.

Swell and wind picked up over the next 30-40 minutes, with 5 and 6 wave sets showing 8'-10' faces being groomed by 15 knot NE winds. My tuneup session just got more interesting lol. Bigger and wilder but still manageable.

Swell and bars weren't quite right, as many of the sets were well shaped and long, but chunky with a fair bit of chop in the faces (not visible from the beach). Good rides to be had, but it wasn't silky smooth and you had to be on your toes.

Grabbed a couple of long clunkers and basically sped through the chop to stay up with the shoulders, which had some size. Also nabbed a couple of smooth ones which allowed some snaps and cutbacks while knocking off the rust of my long layoff.

Swell is progressively getting smaller after the weekend crowd goes home, so even though the session was a little more than I expected, it was a very good tuneup for what looks to be a very good run of surf in the PNW for the next few days.

fingers crossed

 

taking Friday off helped. Surfed some clean waist to chest hi in a pretty good crowd at the washout. Took out the 6'4 perfection, and was able to stay situated in one spot taking on lefts and rights. In the limited time span of running errands and packing, i got some good ones knowing my forecast down in st auggie was bleek. since it was just building swell n then victory at sea conditions, i didn't do any surfing so to keep it short - thanks for the recommendations, two places stood out - Social Lounge bar dwntn and Little Margie's Kitchen at the beach- check them out if you're in that area

 

After some very quick and basic math I reckon about $11.50/wave.

 

Hmmmm...not too bad, when you actually think we are in tropics, etc.
However, that is incentive to catch as many waves as possible, from an economic point of view!!

 

Priceless, man, priceless....especially given the alternative (driving the death desk)

 

As some of you know, my grandmothers health declined suddenly and rapidly. I was planning on going up to PA to visit and say my goodbyes next weekend but yesterday i got a call from my pops saying things weren't looking good and the sooner i can get there the better. So i told my boss i wouldn't be in. Was planning on getting a surf in then hitting the road. Well at midnight i got another call. She had passed. No longer driving up but still took the day off.

Woke up at 5 and it was cold. Buoy was small. Winds offshore at 10-15 mph. Not crazy strong but for a small wave and how could it is, it felt like a bit much. Wanting to clear my head i took the drive down anyway. Waves actually looked fun. Thigh high with sets pushing waist. Clean little peelers. Standing on the beach the wind was cutting right through me. In the 20s with a wind chill in the teens. I almost didn't want to go. To cold for a dinky, although fun looking, wave. Thing is it's not just my grandma's passing, there's other things surrounding the situation that were weighing on me. Things i don't get into. But my point is i needed my therapy. So i suited up and took the mini sims out.

No one else out. A few guys checked but all walked away. The waves actually had some zip as they peeled in thigh high water. A bit of a wait between the sets but there was fun to be had. Nothing special. Just a get up and flow as you pump to keep up and fly down the line. I didn't stay out long. An hour tops. But i was able to get what i needed during that time. I sent this picture to my pops to let him know although i didn't get up there in time, i still got to say my goodbyes.

 

Why we surf.....many reasons.....props & condolences Bassmon

 

My condolences Bass.

 

Condolences to you and your family B Mon.

 

My condolences, amigo.