who here has been surfing this week?

cali girls are all radical feminists now with unshaven legs

 

There, I fixed it for ya

 

mysto swell showed up today...the buoy went from nothing overnight to 4' @ 11 seconds. East swell. Lunch break sesh at the break that's near my work. waist to chest high breezy textured conditions. in warm weather there would be 20 others on it. Today it was me and my office mate ( and surf bud) on an otherwise empty beach trading mid day rights in the cold cloudy dreary. Rode my 5'8" mini simmons which flew along in the soft 3 foot rights.

I feel like i'm only a year to two away from not having the stoke to paddle out in waves like this when the air and water are hovering around 40. But today the stoke was alive and well.

I always gotta snap a pic. One day, i will only have memories of surfing, and then not even memories. My bro, co worker, and stoke resuscitator, milking an ugly wave for all it has to give.

 

My doctor said keep the ball rolling, don't stop. So whenever I go out, it's doctors orders.

Therapy.

When I grow up I wanna be like Chummer. 75 years old still surfing good waves, still full of stoke and full of love for his family and his tribe. He gave me a big hug on the trail to the beach at OR Park a year ago I will always treasure. STOKE!!!

 

Great post, LB. Thanks for the needed shot of wintertime stoke.

 

Yeah, my current step up is 20.25" wide, maybe I'll keep it same, and add a tad of thickness and change the tail from swallow to round, that should add stability without dampening performance. I just wan a bit more foam under me for late drops. Thanks Peajay!

 

I made it out for a long board lunch. It was knee to waist and semi clean, it dropped off quite a bit from yesterday. Got a few nice lined up peelers.

A guy was flailing on a LB on the way inside, I got one all the way in and said to him as I paddled out past him, he needs to focus on bending his knees. He was totally stoked, and I said to his buddy, hey, at least he's having fun. I was told he just got down from Chicago, so he IS living the dream.

Last wave: Only thigh to waist, took off backside left, was gonna do a nice drawn out drop knee bottom turn, there's a guy paddling out right in my way, so I had to crouch and do a grab rail to get the board angled more, went flying past him, then stood tall (all 5'9" of me lol) and glided the glassy wave to the beach. Life is goode.

 

Been a good past couple days to be in FL for sure!

 

Just a bit out the back starting from the trailing edge of the side fins, not thru the whole boart. I'm not going out at Jaws.

Lately my comfort range has dropped to 6-8 feet faces, only bigger if its breaking slow and walling up, and not closing out AT ALL. Main goal: have fun. Mission Accomplished LOL

 

Sorry to hear about your grandmother Bassmon...

 

Sorry about your loss, Bass.
I did similar and paddled out after my Dad passed in March 2016..

 

Huh?? You aren't going out at Jaws?? I thought I saw you out there?? Wasn't that you erratically paddling around out there taking swigs from a bottle of whiskey as if your life depended on it??

 

You mean.....yoga sluts??

 

This guy is on fentanyl.

 

A version of this is what I have on my 7'0... reverse vee with long double concaves.

BTW... I wrote all that design theory stuff on the Greenlight site. So blame me if you think it's all bunk!

 

You ever heard of "The Black Shorts" aka Da Hui? At Jaws I'd be a charter member of "The Brown Shorts Posse", .... prease get me off of this reef!