Surfed dawn patrol two days ago and it was frigid stomach high closeouts. I kept getting stuck on the inside of a shallow bar with 10 wave sets. Couldn’t find anything that wouldn’t wall up or closeout. I also didn’t have enough time to do sand recon and just stuck with where I normally go. Not my most memorable sesh and not stoked on the Mid Atlantic right now.... I need some warmth in my blood.Visiting Boca in two weeks. Hoping I can find something rideable down there.
I think we are in a good pattern for another couple months the way the fronts are rolling thru on the regs, it's rideable to good most days. Delray Dunes north of Linton was going off last good swell, from what I heard from some south county bros. Same with Dog Beach behind Nomad Surf Shop. You'll get some good sessions during a two week stay. If not, I'm blaming you for the flat spell lol.
Waves were solid 5’ on set and had some power this AM. Surfed with NotaSeal and watched him catch 3 of the best waves that came through. I know he’s stoked from that session. Best waves all week Weekend looks beat with the weather. Maybe Monday..
Bump to get ahead of the spam. 18 pages and counting and still no word from our Simod overlords and Micah. I'm out until this BS gets fixed
Fun session today mid morning and into the early afternoon. Peaky Chest - head high on the sets, semi glassy with light to calm wind. I rode the 6’4” Flashback Fish. Water felt great in my 3/2, probably could have gone with a spring suite if I wanted. I was the only person in the water for as far as the eye could see for most of the session. A few showed up later but they were way down the beach. Great weather today, great waves. Really good time. I needed it!
Got some very tasty wasit to chest high semi glassy east swell. A blob is siting offshore giving us a few nice set lines on the bars. Took the 9'0" single fin and first wave pearled it, was too far forward and not properly angled. Total kookery. Next few sets I got into a very nice rhythm getting long smooth rides with cutbacks and cheater fives on the inside. I saw a guy, he was getting a wave on his LB thru the inside, and I was paddling back out, and instead of shuffling forward, he did a little bunny hop with both feet, and kept going. It looked very gay. It got crowded, but it was warm and fun and most folks were well behaved and there was a hot tall mid 30 ish long blond haired elegant female out getting lots of sets with grace and style so that made it even more fun. We shared a wave together, unbeknownst to her, I waited till she went left, then I went right. There was no spiritual connection. Life is goode.
Another fun sesh on the 6’4” late morning / early afternoon. First spot I hit wasn’t breaking very good and after 45 minutes I threw in the towel and went to another spot that was working better. Once the tide was almost low on the outgoing there was a window of really fun waves that lasted through the first hour of incoming. It was still fun when I left but my stomach was gnawing at my backbone I was so hungry, after nearly 4hrs in the water. Waves were waist - chest and glassy. Calm wind and then a light breeze from NW. Crowded compared to first spot but worth it. If you were patient and savy you got waves. Best two waves I got were chest high and walled up, one right, one left, both let me do whatever I wanted. On the right, my backside, I pumped past the first section and then coiled up for a roundhouse snap off the lip, dropped back in, was thinking another roundhouse snap but came up at more of an angle and did a drawn out turn and dropped back in when it died and I kick out. The left, probably wave of the day, I caught it just perfectly and angled my take off with a mid face bottom turn as it walled up, I picked up speed with a quick couple of pumps, dropped in for a big bottom turn, set me up nicely for a snap off the lip, when I came back down I changed directions and went right as the section collapsed in front of me and I went with the momentum, I rode it into knee deep water from way outside. Time for smoked pork, wings, beer, and the Super Bowl!
Today Sunday: No wind, air temp 34F; water temp 40F. glassy. But absolutely flat as a mirror. Not a wrinkle, not even toe high. And morons actually think this armpit is a "surf destination". Morons!! hahahahaha!!!
Work got in the way of an improving swell on Saturday evening. DIdn't see much to charge into Sunday morning, worked, and made my way down to Folly before the Super Bowl got underway. Took two boards, 9'6 Allison & 6'9 Loehr. Waves were clean n a bit dumpy, chest hi. Crowded around the Washout, dropped in on one guy unexpectedly as he was the middleman who decided to turn my way last sec. i got out of his way n went straight on tho, didn't bother me too much. Only had one that took me to shore, last ride n which i had veered to my left n took a couple turns in on a strong push. saw a good bit of wipeouts yesterday tho all around. was going this morning, but it was cold n wetsuite was still a bit wet. energy is worn out -first time i used the hand me down smoker n churned out ribs, 20 lbs of boston but n whole chicken- but i'm looking at tomorrow morning for some leftovers
There are some clean little lines coming in today around waist high. Tide was getting deep early so I held off, but I'm going to take an extended lunch today to get on it for about 90 minutes. Debating on whether I want to ride the LB or the Flashback Fish... decisions, decisions...
High tide and wonky winds....no go this AM. Still no full winter gear session since my trip to Hawaii. Missed two good swells a couple of weeks ago. If this keeps up, I will be paddling out in my 3/2 next sesh... I may do a North Florida recon mission in a couple of weeks to visit a friend and surf.
Surfing today??? What is surfing? UGH! Good thing is, it's starting to stay light longer, I am now in the range to pic up some swell after work, when we get it!
What's happening? Who's been surfing? Planned to surf this morning before work. It was supposed to be waist high with light on shores. The tide was high early and it was going to be pretty warm. The thinking was to get a few short craptastic rides at spot that was close to home before work and it wouldn't be so bad getting dunked under. Woke up to no wind and the buoy jumped a couple of feet. Beach recon showed glassy walled up chest to head high deathbombs. Other spots were going to be better but there was no one around and I was suited up already. Decided to just take the whole morning off right there. Grabbed the fish and hit it. The swell was mostly coming straight in. There was a a good lull to get out but it wasn't dry hair at all. There was a lot of head high stretched out walls you could drop in and ride for a couple a seconds then boom. I caught a bunch of those and paid for it at first. Found some sets coming in on more of an angle that could be a left or right depending where you were. The right was against the grain and throaty. Some quick shade after the bottom turn and off the top as it all crashed down. The lefts were a cheap thrill with a good drop then go straight up for a whack and that was that. At first I was grumpy because I thought wrong place, wrong board. Like should I bail and go somewhere else? Maybe I should grab the thruster. But that thinking won't do. I got a bunch of rides. Some strikes some gutters. I had it pretty much to myself, I didn't wipe out stupid once. The weather was warm and I saw cool ducks. Started to think about ending it when my feet starting to get cold. Caught a close out in and didn't want to paddle back out for a grander finale. Went home for eggs for lunch with my special lady friend. There is a wise man who says "Life is goode". I'll dedicate that session to Betty. We all love you. Hoping for more tomorrow. Go get some. PJ
We are having another great day of fabulous surfing weather..offshore winds, semi glassy conditions, 60F warm, perfect . But no waves, as usual in this "surf destination".
Chest to shoulder high and glassy this morning with really clear water. Tide was just a little too full so it was backing off and wonky. Still fun. Sun was bright and warm. Water in the low to mid 40s.