who here has been surfing this week?

I took my lunch around Noon and grabbed the LB instead of the Fish just to be sure, didn't want to get there and wish I had more foam under me. I figured it was maybe waist high and would have been happy with that but it turned out to be a solid chest high with a few head high bombers to keep you on your toes.

I caught wave after wave non-stop for almost 90 minutes, it just kept pumping them out one after the other with very little to no down time once I made it back to the lineup, which took a while because every ride was like 100 - 150 yards. These were loooong lefts with open faces that would keep jacking up as I would carve up and down staying in the pocket, sometimes speed out onto the shoulder and cut back and get back in the pocket, then set a line and walk to the nose and back, and carve some more.

Some of the best surfing I've ever done on a LB for sure. I was flowing and had a nice rhythm going. Some of the larger sets really made my day. I could have ridden my Fish or even my 6' M-80, but I wouldn't take back the session I had on the LB. What a great way to break up the day. Back at work and making money just replaying those rides in my mind.

 

It was afternoon delight. My wife dropped the SUV off for brakes and I figured I'd be holed up all day making the bacon. Checked it early it was lapping on the beach. Then she dropped off the vehicle and got a ride back home from our daughter, then a friend picked her up and they went to the beach (what a life lol).

I went for a lunch break swimme at the community pool (heated and 25 yards) and did a mile, then went back behind the desk and checked the cams out of reflex... and holy cannoli there was a swell filling in with a tad of wind, so I Ubered to the shop, got the vehicle, checked the surf, it was chest to solid shoulder liners getting sectiony with the arvo winds. Grabbed the NA Dooley 6'6" egg and got some long ass waves at a fairly crowded spot but it was fun.

One wave stood out, I was on almost the nose going backside left and it kept opening up and I kept hitting it in a coiled crouch stance doing backside off the lips againne and againne. Life is goode.

 

Yesterday was pure gold for February. chest high medium period SE swell from the system off Hatteras, glassy conditions all day, 65 degree air temps. early high tide, afternoon low tide didn't seem to make that much difference where i was. Felt like April. Longer daylight really helped on the afternoon / evening session. light out until 6. Surfed sunrise sesh, and sunset sesh.

 

Figured you got it good, system was too close and made for disorganized set up. Stoked...

 

Fun couple of days here in FL with amazing weather: Water is probably in the high 60's and air in the mid to upper 70s

Been switching between the 8-0 and 5-6. Today had some nice little LB lines, which broke fast near the shore. It's actually been so long since I rode anything over 6 ft but the 8 footer was perfect for catching 'em early and gliding down the face and then crouching down for the shorepound.

Yesterday I was at Jetty Park and there were these little 2-3 foot sharks swimming near shore. Must've been over 20 of them hanging out just following the baitfish

 

I was out working at some sub stations in the same general area. Brought a board but didn't finish work until too late. Glad you got you some

 

Waited until the tide dropped as the 4 foot north groundswell had dropped about a foot and was having trouble feeling bottom. Wind turned light out of the east so not much drift.

I found a spot with a couple old dudes out and had my choice of set waves and got some nice long long rides on the LB in the solid waist high range, it was soooo fun. What a gift we have being able to pick a wave, stand up, and go for a ride! Life is goode!!!

 

Checked the cams just for torture and there were waist to chest sets rolling in semi glassy law this afternoon... so I said eff it,!left work at 4:15 and made it to the water by 5. Just as sunnwas setting, and had an awesome sesh. Even with a good sideshore/onshore 20 mph wind and chop, the set waves were still clean and doable and I had the best rides in a long time. Clean, quick paddle ins, transitions right up, a few nice rights and an awesome left and rode over slop and mush until it walled up again and pushed all the way to the beach. A good dozen rides under the night sky, with that gorgeous winter sunset and a cresent moon above it. Stopped at the edge of the water when i finished up and just stood still. Let it sink in.
It’s good to be back.

 

This gets me hyped

 

Ocean City Maryland got fun after the wind switched west this afternoon. Dropping tide, short period made for some rippable peaky waves. 60 degree air, clear green water and sun all in all a pretty solid way to celebrate a Friday afternoon. Rode my 5'8" mini simmons...wasnt really ideal for these a-frame ramps but it worked. Bottom line...these waves were made for a shortboard, and i cant ride a shortboard in 5 mm. rubber anymore.

The midafternoon vibe in Maryland:

 

North Mon Co was blown out last night... ankle to knee high. Had the log in the truck but passed. Just too small. MD got the goods.

 

Agreed ^^

Got out yesterday around 3. First look and tide was drained out everywhere so I did some recon and driving. Stopped at a spot and found a deeper bar. Little knee to thigh high sets. Looked kinda fun.

But, while suiting up I put my simmons on the ground and the wind proceeded to pick it up and fly it 15 yards. Nice little ding on the tail.... Nothing to patch it with so the ol wax trick had to suffice.

Proceeded to catch very small little lefts and rights. Short rides, but fun. Got one or two that I was actually able to rip some turns on. By the time I left it turned into a lake. I blame the strong offshores.

Patiently waiting for next Wednesday and then Florida on Sat.

 

Hey Kanman, If there are no waves down South, drive up here to MB, should be something to ride.

 

Yeah man. I’m definitely gonna try to go a little more north if there isn’t anything in the Boca/ Palm Beach area. If I can find at least a waist high wave I’ll be happy.

 

Flat in NH, as usual.

 

Out of commission again for a lil bit. Sprained my wrist at work Friday night. 3rd time I've sprained that wrist in the past 20 years.

 

And yet you haven't learned to switchhands.