who here has been surfing this week?

Looked really good on the way in to work this morning.

Just sayin'...

 

We have surf!!!
We also have lateral winds at 35 MPH from the North!!
We have then, sucky surf conditions, as per usual.
We also have snow, ice, lots of water on ground, and temps are 34F.
What joy!!
Back to bed.......

Even the seagulls are hiding, down on the ground!!

 

Never heard of it. Maybe Chasm's? Getting pretty close to the boat spots. Glad to hear there's still a few spots left down there

 

Finally some lefts in the ol’ dirty Jerz. Solid chest to head peaks this morning. Sets running both ways. Early glass before strong offshores. Lined up peelers and hollow choobs. Rode the Monsta Box and life was good

 

You scored, Kan... it was really good. Glad you got the best of it.

Really inconsistent by the time I got down to the beach. Mostly waist high or so but pretty gutless with the strong offshores beating it down. Occasionally a bigger wave, but for the most part... small. I missed out. Had the wrong board, too.

 

Same here... Looked great when I left the house in the morning. I knew it was going to drop some, but I was really disappointed when I got home. Oh well

 

Just booked another trip back out to CO for some snowboarding. Hitting Eldora 2 days and Breck for one day. So amped!!!

 

Same here Wednesday afternoon. jammed up with work all day knowing it was fun. Couldnt break out until 4 p.m. had to surf the closest spot which gets really impacted by the outgoing tide. Sunny/ perfect offshore wind/ 3 foot lines coming in. threw on the wetsuit and paddled out. First couple of sets looked like there was potential. Got a couple of good ones on the mini simmons then noticed something wasnt quite right....we were paddling CONSTANTLY to hold the takeoff spot. The outgoing tide was just sucking the energy out of the swell and knew right away it was just going to get worse as the tide started bottoming out. beautiful afternoon!

 

Some weak waist high windswell this morning on the LB, mostly waist high and gutless, but it was glassy-ish so that was good. I caught some kinda fun rides and then when getting out I hit my foot on the coquina rock reef and bruised / cut the top of my foot, then a wave hit my boart and snapped the leash and I swam the rest of the way in. That wasn't my most fun session, but I feel good anyways.

 

Lol! At least you got a surf in. More than I can say up 'round these parts.

I remember one time on a bitter cold winter day... I had my hood pulled down, and I was running top speed down the boardwalk, board under my arm, super amped and couldn't get to the water fast enough. I turned and made the corner to run down the wooden ramp onto the sand and picked up more speed running as fast as I could, but with all of the downhill momentum, too. Suddenly I felt my leash grab onto something, and felt my board try to pull out of my arm. Instinctively I clenched down hard on my board to not let go... but I couldn't stop running so fast downhill. All of a sudden the leash snapped and, like a big, fat rubber band, came snapping back at me... whistling toward my head.

The next thing I felt was searing pain in my ice cold right ear. My stretched-to-the-max leash had snapped back and hit me in my ear so hard I thought for SURE it took my ear right off!

But I held onto my board, didn't get any dings... my ear was still attached... and I went surfing anyway.

 

Ouch! I bet your ear was on fire.

 

But you have had to learn to read lips??

 

havnt surfed in probably over a month.my days been all messed up,been working 6/12s for the past few months,recently heartbroken,my minds been all over the place.been drinking quite frequently.actually half way through a bottle as I type this and only been off work for a half hour lol.oh well that's life but I do need some serious water therapy

 

It was Senior Citizen Day at 2nd Light this morning lol j/k

Glassy and clean, but just a tad too weak and struggled to break. That spot is missing a good sandbar, or several.

 

Was looking at a”Monsta Chief” swallowtail before I went with my Roberts RBBT.
Sweet looking borts

 

You ok? Careful with the bottle - from experience, there’s a lot of dark and nasty inside. Sometimes makes bad things worse... just some .02 from a dingwad.

 

Scored some unruly ones this afternoon. Air temps were around 65 a mile inland. Got to the beach and the air was in the mid 40s and the water was just frigid....id guess upper 30s. Coldest water i've been in all winter. waist to chest high lumpy a-frames...toughed it out for about an hour and a half...surfed stiff and awkward like i knew i would in those conditions. The waves were fat and then just threw over the sandbar unpredictably. Shot a couple of friends after I got out.

 

Packed three boards last night. 5'7 uber driver, 5'8 custom, and my new handshaped 5'8 single fin. Forecast was calling chest to shoulder high. Moderate offshores. Figured things could go either way. Bars havnt been right since fall, recent dredge helped but sand still needs to shift and settle. Feels like i havnt had a proper session in forever so i made sure i was prepared.

Checked spot 1, fun looking but to fast, not makeable. Checked spot 2, long lines but soft. Checked a spot inbetween....PERFECT. A frames, beautiful lines, just looked amazing. Got on it. Chose the 5'8 custom. Winds were a bit on the heavy side. The 5'7 is crazy light so i wanted that extra weight and paddle power. As much as i wanted to give the new board a go, it looked to rippable for a single fin.

My session sucked. First of all my leash would not stop attacking my ankles. An absurd amount. My positioning was off. When my positioning wasn't off i just couldn't get into them, or I'd get in them but get hung up in the lip. Went over the falls ALOT. When i did get into them someone would drop in on me. Nothing went my way. And i got no excuses. Sometimes you choose the wrong board, well i didn't. Id pick that board every time. It was painful watching every one get great ones and im over here flopping around like i never surfed before.

Painful but i did get a great workout. I started getting frustrated and paddled for everything. 2 hours in. Tide dropped, still good ones coming in but with less consistency. I called it. Just not my day. Not to bummed, sometimes things happen. Oh well. Tomorrow's only looking waist high but i'll be out there. Probably going to give the new single it's maiden voyage.