who here has been surfing this week?

Thank God! It finally started to pick up last night, it was chest high plus building today. The Kanman jinx is over. Maybe next time he'll get some LOL

 

Got out for a lunch session, FINALLY some surf. The pattern is - stalled front up nawth, produces decent size north ground swell. Winds underneath front are sucking up from the southern tropics and blow the tops off the sets, until it got finally got bigger, then it was peaky and fun.

Had the right board out - 6'6" NA fat boy round nose round tail, and found the right spot with about 12 guys on three peaks all getting nice quick drops and sectiony mid to shore break random waves. First one was a gem, I took off right on a fast breaking peak, angled perfect, made a couple surprise pop up sections, hit a couple lips, and exited out the back with air and style. That gave me the adrenaline rush to rapidly catch five more nice quick peaks, one nice left, the rest rights. all about shoulder high take offs. Warm clear water even on the full moon outgoing low. Trunked it. Life is goode.

 

Heading to Miami Sunday for a much needed thaw. It's going to be weird to pack shorts, and flip flops, which I hope I can find in the back of my closet.

 

They will all look like rather large fuzz balls......

 

You’re a month late, they had 8ft aframes at South Beach.

 

The plan is to drink rum, lie on beach, float in pool, eat, sleep, repeat. In case of poor weather, apply more rum.

 

nasty shorebreak. whitewash supreme. bit of a challenge out there this morning at the Washout, breaking all over the place. had some better than avg wipeouts. did land a 4ft drop only to have my legs taken out thereafter. not much cutting to get after. am hoping it will clean up with some lines to get after over the wknd. still great to get some before showing up late to work. thought i heard NotAseal yell out KOOK on my way out haha. i prefer the term Honorable Mention

 

Perfect recipe for a heart attack. Especially for "your age".....

 

Isn't this the same conditions that made South Beach light up a couple of weeks ago?

 

fun lunch break sesh in chest high peelers today.

 

Great session after work today. The swell filled in nicely... the water was crystal clear... the sandbars combined well with the low tide... and the offshores were perfect. One of those coke bottle barrel days. Felt kind of groundswell-y. The buoys don't show it, and the numbers don't lie. But I swear it had that kind of speed and energy to it. A buddy of mine would call this afternoon's session a, "little big day."

 

Daaannngg, twice in one week?!?!?! I feel like I should buy a lotto ticket or something.
Early morning was fun and had some size, but so foggy one could not see the shore break from out at the sandbar.
Only a few others out.
Figured I would only be in for an hour but ended up staying out a few, then showing up way late to work.
It got really eerie once everyone else paddled in. I don't really get spooked, and frequently surf and free-diving alone and don't typically get rattled. Probably had a lot to do with the lack of visibility and current, but couldn't stop thinking about the fam and if something happened in those conditions...
The chop was picking up anyway, so caught one last nice ride and called it.
Hope some of the other gulf guys got some this morning. Might be able to hit up early am tomorrow before the winds start up

 

Just got warm and clean. Super fun afternoon on Delmarva! This 50° February days ain't bad!

 

Got out after work for an hour and a half. Chest to maybe shoulder high on sets. Beautiful evening with an orange, purple, pink sky. 50ish degrees is nice too.
Before paddling out I was watching this perfect right peak with big peeling barrels. But, there were like 10+ guys on it and I didn’t want to be 11. Turns out I should have gone there.

I let my buddy pick another spot and it was fun for a couple minutes but the tide made it deep quick. I got a handful rides though and a couple two turn waves. Fair enough. We got a wave on Sunday, so I’ll look forward to that.

 

Perfectly groomed and weak. At least it was warm. sounds like it was better in other areas....

 

Not really. That good swell hit when a low came across, kicked off shore and trailed a fairly strong cold front that came all the way past the Keys with lots of punch. It threw in some strong offshore winds as the crisp cool air filled in. The last couple swells and the next couple have high pressure PARKED to our south and offshore, blocking the fronts from coming down. We've been getting hard onshores out of the south to mess up the nice medium sized north swells being sent our way.

It's been a mixed bag of crap, with a few nice peaks here and there at the right tide. Full moon 1 foot negative low tide has killed it for half the afternoon, the full moon high tide has made it a bounce house in the morning. Better than flat, which will be this weekend.

Polo on the beach Saturday for a horse rescue group. Should be a hoot.

 

Funny how the perigean spring tide messed with the waves at some spots, but helped in others. The past few times I was out surfing I thought... the sand just isn't in the right spot. "It's there... it's just not where it needs to be." So the super low tide yesterday afternoon actually worked better than it has been lately, with all of the sand sitting just outside of where it normally would be.

 

You know, years ago, I paid attention to such apogee/perigee effects on tides and waves. But recently I forgot all about that.
So thanks for the reminder. I guess the NDBC buoys made me lazy, and pay attention to little else.

 

i went back out on to the Washout after work. didn't take too much convincing tho i didn't know how much time me n a bud would get out there. he didn't make it out earlier, so he was kinda desperate to get in the water. well we scored. fog cleared up a bit by the time we were out there and it wasn't so disorganized as the morning. took out the other board i had in the car - a 6'9 Surf Prescription bullet shaped board that i call the projekt board cuz of all the fixings i did on that thang. had a few longer rides and caught a bit more than expected. same sht as before tho with the waves double dipping, only caught it once to shore. all in all worth it, looking forward to tomorrow morning session and perhaps a lil Folly Gras shtshow