Had some fun on Saturday, surf was def bigger than what I saw forecasted. Ran into Mitchell and chatted for a bit. Water is cold, I am ready for a little warm up!
What's happening? Digging the stories and the meet ups. Good stuff. Had a great surf on Saturday myself. It was snowing at dawn. Not a superstorm or anything. Just snow. Scrapped an early go out. I could say it was for good reasons like I wanted to let my special lady sleep in after a night shift. Or that I that wanted to get my kids out in the snow before it was gone. But it would be a lie. I just didn't want to go looking for surf in the storm. I had a limited window because Grandma was coming over for a visit. So my deviant self devised a plan that was based in the Safety of my Ma. I couldn't let her drive here in this. I would drive to her and bring her out. And it wouldn't hurt if I got a surf along the way during the better tide, wind, and weather. I did just that. Wife slept in, made a snowman and ate a good breakfast. Then a good stretch and suited up. I also relied on a friend who did go and drive around early to give me the goods so I didn't even have to do any recon. I didn't check it. Just got my board and showed up to the break in the middle of the morning with the sun out and a fairly empty line up. Felt like a tourist. The swell was head high, glassy and had a nice angle. Pretty much like Bassmon said about Sunday with regards to the shape. But just a little bigger. Quick barrels at take off and then some wall. Easy paddle outs with a bit of a sweep on the inside. I would just go with it and drift into three peaks then catch one in, walk back and do it again. Caught a bunch of good waves every drift. Rode a proper SB for the first time in a while using fins at the high end of the ride #. I like the feel out of the bottom turn. Like a slingshot. Also felt very connected to the wave after surfing the fish so much. Dropped in with confidence. So much so that my last wave I got completely annihilated. I was thinking about getting out to go get Grandma. A bomb came out of nowhere and I just went stupid deep and late right into a body slam. It hurt. Got Grandma. Funny how the snow disappeared and she could have totally drove herself. But who knew? The weather-dudes over-hyped. Headed back and had a Great visit. Grandma was staying over to babysit while the lady and I got to see Lyle Lovett and John Hiatt do their thing. Good show. Missed Sunday morning leftovers but had a great breakfast and drove mom home. Hoping for more waves and stories soon. Good job guys.
Yesterday afternoon was a complete surprise for me. Rainy north wind conditions in the morning...busy day...gave up on surfing. Left my gear at home - kiss of death! But the forecast was like waist high at most. By mid afternoon the sun was out, wind offshore and sets were pushing shoulder high. Worst of all...it was a rare northeast swell with a bunch of lefts in the middle of a winter of south swell rights. Took a few shots after work all the while kicking myself for being so stupid but stoked for all of the people who were scoring, including a few SI members.
Yep, usual winter profile, the southern swells will begin piling the sand above the scarp line late spring. That local spot has done well for 5 1/2 years since the 2013 beach fill with fine sand.
Nice, yesterday afternoon was way more fun than I expected too. However, that water is cooooold. The lefts were some of the best I have seen in a while out here. There was maybe 3 total surfers in the water which surprised me.
There is a spot - Sand Key - a few miles west of Key West, it has a light, and a reef and breaks on a good south swell.
It was all my fault. The good swell fucast was a joke, supposed to be 6 ft @ 8 seconds with a stiff sideshore building breeze. It was crap. The back story... I've been eyeing this boart since I saw it at a friends house during the Super Bowl, they had a party and a kid (30 years old) said it was too big for him and he wanted to sell it for $350. A Kechle step up - 6'9" x 19.5 x 2.6" + or -. Good shape. A few little dings. A couple months go by and I run into him, he asks me if I still want it, sez not a dollar over $250, I said yeah, I'll check it out. Ran into him last weekend, he's all WTF? $200 and it's yours! So I bought it last night hoping to take it out in some good surf.... ...Took the ole LB out today in a sheltered spot due to honking onshores and poor conditions, the water was like a bath, and even though it was crowded, I easily got a dozen nice cruisers in knee to waist high weak ass waves. One kid had a go pro mouth thingy, I almost congratulated him for recording an epic session he could replay for his grandkids in the future, but decided to be nice and keep it zipped. Some day, some where, (SOON I hope), I will get the new used boart wet in some sweet barrels. Life is goode.
For the past month it seems like all the really good conditions have happened overnight. That wasn't the case on Monday but the tides weren't cooperating as much as the wind did. I got in two sessions in the same day for the first time in a long time. One first thing in the morning when the tide was max and the shorebreak was some dredging, fast running pits and one towards sunset where the tide was perfect incoming with some still fun glassy sets every now and again.
Thread bump to the front. My wrist is healed. Looks like I'm gonna hit it Monday morning. It's been almost 3 weeks. I'm as excited as Wayne at a Boy Scout camp out.
Good luck dude I just had to sit out a good day today after I had a brake caliper lock up. Spent most of the day busting knuckles on a brake job. Life is not goode
I took my new Fish and my LB for a spin at NSB Inlet today. Weak knee / thigh waves with an occasional waist high set. More about that in the Green Fish thread...
All good my ninja, I'm back on the road. Swell jumps up to out-of-control tonight until next weekend, but I'll be ready for it now