who here has been surfing this week?

Pretty fun mid period ENE session this morning. Had a nice backside floaty to bomb drop that made and transitioned out of...felt good to be on the shred stick. My 2mm gloves were super slippery for some reason???

 

Today's conditions. = fun

 

Looks huge out there...I can't even see the guy surfing.

 

Window for waves this aft

 

Got some fun head to head plus surf yesterday.

i was sitting around in my jammies drinking coffee and waiting for the longer period swell to fill in the short period weakness we've had the last few days. Fucast called for it to fill in at the time that the wind was to switch onshore.

so I looked at the cams and it was so foggy that I couldn't see the beach and I was this close to tapping out and going back to bed.

but then I got pissed cuz I've been doing that way to much lately. I figured if it was shit then at least I could walk the beach and get some exercise.

But the fog started to lift and it looked fun, probably about chest to shoulder. 4' @ 14 secs started rolling in within an hour which produced some long rippable walls. Crowds are already looking very summer-ish out here, with a lot of interlopers surfing where they shouldn't. Got bigger as the unknown faces moved down the beach when the familiar faces showed up.

Pulled off a couple of semi-barrels and had 2 long, long carving waves with several top turns mixed in with 2 or 3 full cutbacks.

So yeah, it was fun. More on tap for today.

Here's hoping y'all get yours

 

Pretty damn fun this morning with the last couple hours of outgoing tide and the first hour of incoming.

Light offshore wind, clean conditions, waist - chest with larger sets every 20-30 minutes. There was some inconsistency and it took patience and a little bit of luck to be where you needed to be on those bigger sets.

I rode my Fish and I think I finally got her dialed in. It was a blast putting it on rail with the speed this thing has and I also like having the ability to do a crouching cheater 5 through the soft section and then slide back to the tail when it gets steep again for some more carving.

After 3.5hrs, I called it and grabbed a couple giant slices of pepperoni pizza at the beachside market on the way home. It was so damn good and the IPA’s washing it down are ice cold. Good day so far.

 

Good day on the Delmarva today. fun peaky waist high waves, groomed by offshore winds. Got two sessions and had a blast for a day i wasnt expecting much. Shot a few around mid afternoon in between surfs.

 

got some more fun ones out there again, a little smaller but fairly consistent and the wind never really beat it up today. Couple of loooong glassy ones again and a couple pushed out a little more power on the head+ sets. Got pretty much my pick, got tired and tapped out.

Feeling all mentally and physically buzzed, I was walking back to the ridiculously-crowded parking lot and noticed this on the back of one of the campers:



Totally made a perfect end to a very goode day.

Stoked y'all are scoring

 

Fun waist to chest yesterday afternoon. It was awesome to get a day where you can do more than one turn or only barrels. It was a bit deep to get to really shacked but the walls were very playful and long.

 

Not a bad start to Spring with the swell the past few days and looking at this system that is moving off for some more...Keep them coming!!!

 

Hey Matt, probably saw you out there. We checked a few spots including J’s pier. Went back north a bit and let the tide fill in a bit. Solid swell, lots of hollow sections. Rode my new board and it was $$$ from the first wave. More waves on tap this week

 

Yeah, we had a nice start as well....winds lateral to the beach at 45mph.....cold water and air.....
New England this winter past and present has really SUCKED on account of winds. It just will not stop. Oh wait...yes it did, right after complete dark set in last night...whoppeee...

 

Got some super fun ones yesterday... rides weren't that long, but very consistent sets in the chest high range. Had a filthy Jerzy sandbar all to myself, next to a storm drain with a nice little rip for easy paddle outs. Rainy day, side offshore wind... flat grey light. Waves were appearing and disappearing like ghosts. It didn't have the energy or size to really be barreling, but clean and fun on the fish.

 

Rode Eldora Thursday and Saturday and Breckenridge Friday. Thursday was so warm, but the end of the day I was just wearing a t-shirt. By Saturday, we had 6 inches of new snow and it snowed all day. Great trip!

 

I had a dream last night that I was back in CR...

 

The swell (chest plus @ 12 seconds), tide (low) and wind (light - FINALLY!) lined up yesterday morning. Took the LB out and got some really nice long rides with some challenging drops thrown in the mix. The walls were smooth, but the drops on the good sets were steep and shifty. Ate it on two takeoffs, and a couple others had to bottom turn hard and make the drop and got shot out the back due to too quick of a turn.

On a few other got it just right, on some bigger sets and it was such a rush on the LB (single fin with prolly too much rocker). The drops were like ohshit I hope Imake it, then it was off to the races, doing cutbacks and some nose riding on the reform onthe inside.

One thing happened before I got my first ride. It was at a sandbar,the lineup was spread out. I intentionally went there so not to get into a Sunday morning shit show at the Pier.

Some big dude paddles right next to me and parks it on my right shoulder. A set came, and I swung my boart around (slowly but not real slow) and just missed his jaw. He shot his head back and gave me a look. I just grinned. I didn't see him anywhere near me the rest of the session. Life is goode.

 

Hate when that happens (when you know it finally got good at night time).

 

Good lighting on that pic...

 

Would you call it a "wet dream"??