I managed to sarf Fri & Sun. Had fun. Jammed my shoulder up a couple times Friday night, but yesterday I was solid. Got an awesome ride on the foamie on Friday. Scrambled outside for a chest hi set, steep drop in, jammed my foot on the tail for a sharp bottom turn and got blasted down the line. Felt like I was on a rocket. Nice lined up left wall that kept peeling. It was the only wave I saw like that the whole night and it was all mine. This just before a pal managed to run me over and put a nice fin gash on my board. Going to need to bust out super glue and fill it... Yesterday I rode the fling for about 2-3 hours. Really suite waist to stomach hi split peaks with an offshore breeze. Got a couple 3 turn waves. Happy just to get out and live a little.
I like to let out a huge burrrrrrrrrp or I lay on my stomach and push out a nasty fart if anybody gets too close. Usually does the trick.
Got some 4-5' yesterday and some dropping 2-4' this AM on the 7'0" funboard. Somehow managed to chip a tooth friday. getting old sucks, but as my dad says "it's better than the alternative".
This morning I met up with Capecodcdog for what we hoped would be a fun session. Swell is on the rise but the tide was maxed out and the swell isn't quite filled in yet so it was pretty tough getting a take off on anything on the outside, so it was mostly shore pound but we did manage to get a couple waves on the inside / mid section each. It's 4-6ft and clean just to the North of us so it should be getting fun very soon here. I had to run off to work, but Capecodcdog should be able to score around low tide before wind gets on it. It was a beautiful morning, glassy conditions. Good putting another name with a face, nice guy too. Hope everybody scores today!
I have sooo much hope for today!!!! It's rare when we've had the wind, tide and swell all line up (especially so far this year) but if anything the forecast keeps getting better. My afternoon is clear and I hope to put in a 4 hour session and still hopefully have time to snap a few pics. Fingers crossed....please don't let this jinx it!!
The recovery is going pretty good. It seems like a lot of people waited until last minute to start repairs for the upcoming tourist season so there's a ton of construction going on at once but I've been impressed with the north end. For a while it seemed like everyone in that area just kinda gave up so I don't know if it was the insurance money or what but I've seen more effort put into repairs than I have in years. If that actually holds up against the elements is another story but I like the fight and it looks much improved.
Been enjoying the warm weather and friendly vibe here on the space coast. DP321 has been a welcoming source of 411 of the area. After chasing down some bumps in the wind choppe the previous days, today had some nice lines rolling in with light to medium off shores. Early this morning, as DP mentioned, a little too much water, so only scored a few rides, but it was cool to meet up IRL with a fellow swellie. Then, went on a 1.5 mile walk (x2) with wife, to a chill place "surfanista cafe" for a most excellently prepared breakfast sandwich and some delicious jo'. During return, did propre sand reconne (1.5 miles), saw boarts in the water and waves picking up. Got out there and scored super clean liners, before it got a little sucky crumbly as the tide drew out, a least at the spot where I was. It was time to refuel again anyways. Always good to get wet, and nice to be neoprene free and in trunks!
Looked at it at lunch at low tide it was firing! If you were GI Joe LOL. Perfect rifling barrels in the solid ankle to knee high range, hollowed out by brisk offshores. Each wave screaming fin cut or a twisted knee. Went back to work, waited for the line of mean storms go thru. Snapped a nice size tree in front of Mom's house, luckily no damage to property or person.... So aboot 5 pm I headed back out. Wind died, tide was pushing in and swell was on the rise. The Pier was the only spot working proper, crowded but the sets had size and several waves per set to thin the horde out. First wave was easily shoulder high, had the single fin LB out, and the drop was bouncy and fast and the wave kept going. Got a few more just like it. I was patient, waiting for the Goldilocks sets..."not too big (they were closing out hard), not too small, just right". Life is goode.