who here has been surfing this week?

What's your advise?

 

Don’t try.

Bahahahaha

 

Not seeing the barrels. Dude. Only shot the open face small ones? Where's the beef? The beefy peaky, that is.

 

Wednesday-When the tide got right the waves got pretty good

 

^^ First pic is savage. Sick one.

I got one shitty cell phone pic of the swell.

 

Man, some really good pics being posted up lately, who says the East Coast sucks?

 

Add a foot of board, paddle like a great white is bearing down on you, and pop up into a low crouch to minimize wind resistance and git down the face.

 

You might even throw in a nose ride on take off to push that nose down the face and keep the wind from getting under it.

 

Make sure you have the proper know on your leash, too, that will cut down on wind resistance!

 

Man, on one hand I'm stoked to see all the pics, on the other, faq. Between spring break business and long period flats, I guess I have to live vicariously through yous guys for waves. Fishing and free-diving to keep the stoke tank from sputtering out. Finally had some small swell the past couple days but its been thunderstorms since yesterday afternoon. Trip in November can't get here soon enough

 

Hire a photographer for an hour or two, PanMan. Great memories. You’re older tomorrow

 

I do.

 

Go back to bed, try again.

 

That's what my wife requested.....

 

Surfline article calling last winter lame , perhaps a regression to the means, or call it El Nino but

 

Last winter will be one to remember locally , early Dec am

 

I've surfed every winter since 1988. Last year was an anomaly.....especially that stretch in March and April. If last year is someone's expectations for the future they are going to be disappointed year after year. Perhaps this year was slightly below average but on the plus side it never really got cold. One of my best sessions was a head high morning in late January and I was taking my hood off in the lineup between sets.