who here has been surfing this week?

Been in the middle of remodeling my kitchen for the past week (took it down to studs and subfloor), and nursing a groin pull from playing soccer - so I missed the nor-easter swell and a good saturday my friends say the forecasts missed. Been reading here once every few days and see yall caught it good last week - stoked for everybody. Finally got all of my mud work done last night, so all ih ave to do is sand and prime before new cabinets arrive monday. Hopefully forecast holds and there is a clean bump saturday morning as I finally have time to surf againne.

 

Man I got to go to effing Alaska in a few weeks for a build our company is doing.

I'm sure the swell will be All Time from the minute I get on the plane

 

Pack a travel boart!

 

Please transfer that energy to us, minus winds.
Surf has sucked around here despite what masshole immigrants think....

 

o Barry, don't you know by now that when the surf is pumping on this coast, your coast is dribble? And vice versa?

 

I have seen both of them in loud stereo.

 

yo barry dm me if u need a viagra hook up. no script needed

 

Will your GF deliver them?? <grin>

(just joking, FUN)

 

Yeah, I gave up going out on days like that. If it does so a bit, not a problem, but when he winds make EVERY surfer completely blind for first 30 seconds on a wave that only lasts for a 10-15 second ride...........

 

I used to love paddling for a wave on a big swell in the winter with the hood up and strong offshores, just to not catch it or pull out..... the sound the spray makes as it pelts you on your hooded head. I thought it was wild. The downside..... not catching the wave.

 

The wind speed makes the difference--20mph, no problem. 40-45 with gusts up to 50mph, fun is gone. That is what you are seeing in that photo. Also, air temps were probably 20-25*F...wind chill sucks. As one gets older, we lose a lot of our insulation; we get colder wayyyy easier!!

 

o barry

 

Yes i am well aware. 20-25 sounds nice compared to some past winters. Line toy said, wind has been crazy this year. My cut off used to be 30mph. Now it's 20.

 

Just got back from a fun session on the LB with moderate wind onshore / sideshore out of the SE.

It was bumpy, lumpy, and chunky but when the sets came the wave face was semi clean. Some lefts, some rights. The left’s were longer and had better lines.

It was mostly chest high with some peaks in the shoulder / head high range and those were breaking waaaaaay outside and if you played your cards right there was loooooong ride that connected all the way to the inside.

Should be a little better in the morning but if it’s the same I won’t be mad. Pretty damn fun!

 

More chest high waves this morning with sets pushing shoulder to head high way outside. Conditions were a little cleaner than yesterday but still a little bumpy.

It was really fun on the fish, my first wave was the best wave. I caught it waaaaay outside, made several turns, up and down the face with speeeed! I let out a howl as I kicked out, but nobody heard me I’m sure since I was the only person in the water LMAO

I caught many waves after that but none compared. The rest of the session was a lot of searching and trying to get in position because it was a bit shifty, drifty, and chunky. Just when I thought I had paddled far enough out, and I was way way outside, another wave would break even further out. The fisherman on the beach looked tiny lol

I got so much water in my nose, ears, and I accidentally drank some too, making me gag till it came back up. Good times! I guess it resembled beer foam and thought I’d take a swig. What can ya do?

 

Went down and looked at it early this morning... looked fun, but weak. Lazy south swell rolling in... pretty clean but gutless. Looked about waist high around low tide. But there was nobody out, so I went home, suited up, and grabbed the log.

Took the long walk down the beach to a spot I've been going to a lot lately and paddled out. Seemed like the swell bumped up a notch or two over the next hour, to the point where I felt bringing the longboard was a mistake. Solid chest to shoulder high waves started coming in fairly regularly... still not much power, but enough to make these glassy little thin-lipped barrels you could squeeze into.

Got one good one... backdoored a nice wedging peak and pulled straight in. Something about getting tubed on a longboard... so smooth and fast... like a big, heavy a lowrider Cadillac. Find your line... set your rail... get your feet in the right spot... and let the wave do the rest.

Sometimes having the wrong board ends up being a happy accident.

 

Maybe in reality it was the right boart? I’d say so if you pulled into a tube. It really does feel different on a LB, in a good way.

 

mid morning low tide was ridable but weak. Clean but just waist high and not much push. paddled out anyway thinking the incoming tide would boost things. Around 11 a.m. (2 hours after low) things starting improving a lot. after 2.5 hours my arms were shot. got out and shot some pics of the kids having a blast.

 

Went up and watched my son and daughter surf yesterday but wasn't very motivated. Foggy with some shoulder high mushy waves coming through. On a positive note both of them wore 3/2 suits with 3mm boots and gloves and they were fine for a couple of hours. This is in southern NJ by the way.

 

Story of my life this winter.... weird day. Woke up at 5 to some THICK fog. Buoy was for somthing at 8 seconds, just a breath of onshore wind, outgoing tide. Had my 5'8 and 5'7 packed. Seems silly when i say that but the 5'8 is more suited for weaker conditions and the 5'7 is pretty high performance. Rolled up to the beach around 6. Fog wasn't lifting. Looked at it from the dune.... couldn't see a thing. Walked to the waters edge. Could only make out white water/face. I saw some lines but couldn't tell if it was weak or standing up or what. Grabbed the 5'7 and got on it.

One of those disappointing days. Face was clean. Waves were waist to chest high. Tide was good for the spot. But put it all together and it was just unorganized. I like to describe it as breathing. The waves were breathing alot. Waves you thought were too soft walled up, waves you thought looked good flattened out. The longer lines were super sectiony. The short better looking ones went from soft to walled up to soft erratically. Had no idea where you were with the fog. Inside or outside. No idea. Was definitely drifting east but couldn't tell how far/fast . Spent the whole session basically rolling the dice and hoping for the best.

Did get a few decent ones, couple sloppy turns. The waves were breathing so much it was tough to really set anything up. I caught a really weak shoulder. Immediately kicked out. Found i was in thigh deep water. Laid belly down and hugged the sand as a few sets broke on top of me. And that was that. Nice to get in the water. Had fun. But was hoping for a better "classic" type session. Still havnt really got to put the 5'7 through its paces. Seems everytime i surf it it's closing out or wonky. It'll happen eventually.