who here has been surfing this week?

What a weekend! After 7-8hrs of water time from Friday - Sunday I am stoked and satisfied. It may not have been the cleanest conditions but there were waves all weekend and at times they were really good.

Today was similar to yesterday, maybe a bit more consistent and a bit more drift due to wind out of the South. When the wind was blowing it was opening up the lefts, when the wind laid down it let some rights come through.

To get the bigger sets (shoulder / head) you had to work by paddling way outside and then a constant slow but deliberate paddle to the South to stay on peak. After a couple hours of that I finally gave in and let myself drift up the beach catching waves at each peak and that’s when I got some of my best rides of the session, a couple of long lefts stand out in my mind. At end of my session I met a couple of dudes who drove up from Ft. Pierce. Nice guys, they were stoked.

Now it’s Pizza time!

 

RI was fun this morning. Started off foggy but it lifted pretty quickly. Waves were 2-4', pretty much as predicted. Some idiot had their drone flying around the break for 40 minutes, like this was some epic session, irritating noise pollution. No hood for the first time this year, changed in 60˚ air - spring surfing is back and I'm psyched. Did see a guy out without gloves and he might have jumped the gun because the water is still in the 40s.

 

Barrel city this morning.
High tide at first light of 4.5’. Small swell in the water, 2-3’

Was getting roll ins from the outer bar and worked a few all the way to the inside. Got an awesome double up on the inside and back door’d a little 2’ barrel. Came out and hit a nice floater on the oncoming section. Only legit one I made but pulled into a bunch. Love days like this

 

Just got out of the water in Delaware. same deal. 3/2, boots, no gloves. Water is still not much above 50, but it air temps were warm out and light wind. Reasonable comfy for an hour and a half in small waves.

 

Stoked for everyone scoring, sick kid this weekend so I'm living vicariously. Seems to be a lot of upcoming swell on tap so it's all good. Get on it buoys(and gals) for all of us who can't!

 

o barry, get your old bones south. The day our last kid graduates in 4 years, we are outta here! Will still come back for the summer/fall/late spring cause I do love it up here, but winters will find me warm and surf filled.

 

got a great session in on saturday! Finally surfed well - the last two times I went, I felt my positioning, timing, etc were all off and wasn't satisfied with how I was surfing. Was waist with sets in the shoulder to chest range - crumbly but with clean rippable walls. Had to go to the jetty (offered most protection from the south winds) with my 50 closest friends, but I got mine. Rode my new fish and that thing freaking rips. Super skatey - cutbacks were on the verge of spinning out, but never did. Really enjoyed doing turns, and made a ton of sections that I might not have on a thruster. So glad I chose to ride it instead of my sb. It's now my favorite board for the time being. Cant wait to get wet after work today!

 

Huh?? You mean....you actually convinced a female to breed with you??!!??
Remarkable!!!

 

twas a fun Saturday. got in early early off a recommendation from a buddy that the swell was leaving. it wasn't...so i got two sessions in at the washout. real sneaky drift south, and a lotta lefts presented themselves. so i scooted down the beach pretty quick, had more than a handful of peelers n squeelers to edge out getting rammed down by some shoulder hi's. hit up the local shop on record day, then made my way back at hi tide with the onslaught of summer beach traffic. undeterred tho, less drift n gotta to try another board to catch some more. water warmed up, no booties, some ppl skinning, it was weird. did get jelly of one kid with a mid-length single fin gliding around. i don't think it'll be too long before i get one myself

 

I feel for your long suffering wife.

 

Thank you. So do I......

 

It was rideable on Saturday late pm as the tide dropped and the wind picked up. Got some waist high choppe on the homemade rocket fish. It floats real nice so it's god for weak waves. Water was B eautiful. No one out, good north running current so I did a drift after paddling against it for a while, just to get a workout.

Yesterday was bigger maybe chest high plus on peaks and was crowded with groms at the spot. Coming out of the woodwork. A couple could surf well. Got the NA 6'6" and got a couple short lefts and some nice longer peeling rights. The best wave was steep and almost HH and I ate it on the drop, being too forward and caught a rail. Didn't expect it to jackup like it did and paid the price. Banged my forward knee up somehow, but not bad. Water was perfect.

I was watching the Masters all morning and looking at the wave cam, and at a certain point when the Italian found water I knew Tiger was gonna be in it till the end. But I needed to find some water too. Got some fun surf. Then went to a beach bar and hung out with some friends. Then came home and watched the recording. Life is goode.

 

Looks like there's a swell... but it's blowing offshore 30-35 sustained, gusting 40-45. Don't know if I'm into that...

 

Barry would go.

 

Barry already went....

 

got it pretty good first thing this morning....high tide outgoing, hardly a breath of wind, sun popping out, 3-4 foot south wind swell. Steep south angle. Such a steep angle you had to keep cutting back to get off the soft shoulder back to the pocket....fun kind of wave.

 

took the LB out yesterday evening for some thi hi thrillers. alright they weren't all thrillers. alright they weren't all thi hi either. missed a lot more than i caught, kinda of a sideshore thang going out there on a fading swell. but what i did is get over a handful of 20-30 yarders that you step up to and get to enjoy in the sunset in the comfort of my 4/3 which i'm prolly the last one to rock in the 68 deg water. jellies are out bigly, no stingers tho i heard one kid get it. glad to get some, maybe this wknd's shot of splendor will provide the next ride thru - would be nice on 4/20 just sayin

 

The swell came on post lunch, so did the 30 to 40 mph winds. On a somber note, local surf shop owner Melissa took a fin to the eye. She was airlifted to Philly last nite, cracked orbital bones and early rumors of losing her eye.

 

That blows!