who here has been surfing this week?

Yesterday was the tits. Paddled out at mid tide, bout 8 AM. My break. No one else around in the water or on the beach. Chest high and glassy. All to myself. I just kept thinking about how many guys were at each jetty in the town north of my location. There was enough juice that it was working right up to high tide, which is VERY rare at my spot. Not too steep, easy take offs. Rode the 6'6 WRV. Surfed off and on, for well over 3 hours. I hurt today but it's a good hurt.

 

It was like a skatepark yesterday. Still good this morning.

 

Nice run of swell for Delmarva!

 

I have missed this entire swell

 

Really fun yesterday. Felt like there was a smaller swell out of the south-ish... with some longer period stuff coming through with more east in it. The east swell pulses were bigger and chunkier... but trickier to make. The south swell stuff was more consistent and cleaner... but smaller. Rode the fish.

This morning was all straight east swell... the higher tide this morning was making it a little more makeable, but still sectiony. Longboard was the call.

 

Think we have another one early next week LB . Perhaps with a tad warmer water . Still fun just got out , onshores but the swells still lingering for the aft .

 

tonight after work on the low tide was magic. deserted lineup, a couple guys on longboards gliding, and the 5'8" mega mini simmons was so perfect for these little 2 foot sticks of butter. Best part: no booties for me and it felt great....not a bit cold on the feet. From around 6 p.m.

 

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Well, I redeemed myself with an after work session on the LB. Low incoming tide with light onshore wind from the NE making it a little bumpy.

When I paddled out there were several people in the water but soon after they all disappeared and I had it all to myself.

I caught a couple dozen waves in just under 90 minutes until the sun started setting and I rode one in.

Most waves were waist high, but I recall a couple chest high peaks that offered a much longer ride with more speed and I was able to really do whatever I wanted on the wave. I could have ridden the fish but the LB was the better call.

Really fun session.

 

Yesterday was a day that was so fun that the camera only came out briefly. Surfed 3 long sessions yesterday right in front of the house we are renting. Swell varied through the day with wind and tide. At times it was overhead and others it was waist to chest. Water was warm enough that my kids trunked it all afternoon. I roasted in a 3/2. This is in the North end of Rodanthe just south of S-Turns.





Took this picture from our deck before paddling out.

 

This will give you an idea what it was like in this area yesterday on the incoming tide.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bwni2JogJMp/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

You SCORED.

 

It has been good. Still waves today.

 

I made sure that I woke up early today to avoid biffing it up like I did yesterday morning. I pulled up to the same spot as yesterday evening, I brought both the LB and the Fish with me, I checked the surf and it appeared waist high and mostly clean with slight bump on it but very little.

I grabbed the Fish since it looked like it had enough energy out there and the wave looked like it had a nice shape to it. I was first in the water but not for long. I had a blast catching lots of waves for a little over an hour with just a few others out and then all of a sudden it was like the local retirement community went on a field trip with their LB's and clogged up the lineup making it not quite as fun as it once was.

Overall it was really fun though. I have one wave that is stuck in my head, it was a chest high right (backside) that I caught right at the peak and had a steep take off and fast line that allowed me to make a couple turns. I also had one blown take off that made me laugh when I tried to turn and burn on one that jacked up and was already breaking and ended up doing a front flip take off, only problem is I didn't bring my boart with me!

I didn't end on a positive note though. I was trying to find that one last wave to ride in so that I could go to work but I just couldn't seem to find it with the sudden crowd and changing tide. I finally said F it and paddled in because I was late for work. I really wanted to end it by riding one in but what can ya do when you got responsibilities? A wise man once said, "real surfers don't have any responsibilities." lol

Beautiful morning, water is warm, air is warm, sunrise was blinding.

 

We have been getting fun, surfable waves here since last weekend. Nothing epic, but that distant system is sending some clean waist high peelers. Perfect for whatever board you wanna use. Just have to time it before the afternoon onshore wind kicks in. I’ve been going to one of the not so many hightide spots and been having a blast.

 

just got out of the water, some 2-4' SW little inconsistent. rode the 5'8" RNF with twins and it felt so squirrely...probably could have used a bigger board today

 

The Outer Banks just keeps giving and giving. Looked pretty dismal this morning in front of the house. Windy with some swell in the water but all ripped up by the winds. At high tide I dragged my son out to go check a very tide dependent spot I know of where a lot of cool footage that ends up on youTube gets filmed. I didn't even bring my own board. It was firing. Only was like this for about but this shot says it all. In that hour I got a couple hundred great shots. Let the editing begin.......

These two shots that are part of a longer sequence say it all. One of the regulars.........

 

Some really fun waves this morning on low incoming tide. I hit one of my go-to spots just down the road from where I was yesterday and had the place to myself. A nice 12 second period swell filtering in and pushing some chest - shoulder / head high sets. Wind was nearly calm with a light breeze from the South keeping conditions pretty clean. I rode the 5'8" Fish, which was fast and probably the right call. Some waves were closing out at dead low but as the tide started to fill in it became more makeable and rampy. Wish I had the day off, I would stay out all day if I could.

 

After a great day of surf on Monday, had another good day on Tuesday and spent 5 hours in the water. Wednesday had a great forecast, but it was pretty flat.