what a rush! After totally running myself in the ground yesterday to prepare for today’s surfing, taking 3 hours to do a 20 minute job, I was pleased to wake up this morning restored! The med let me walk better and spasm free. So off we went, with husband at the wheel. The R2D2 arrived right on time and my crew was there to help carry my gear andwheel me to the beach. What a beautiful sight: uncrowded gentle knee to thing highs, semi clean, just mild offshore winds. The paddle out was a snap and it was great to get back in the ocean and see the spray come over the board on the paddle out (Love that!)— and the big waves from the locals in the line up, welcoming me home was a real nice touch. Just being out there amongst friends and the ocean was indescribably as you might know. To me, the social aspect of surfing is what makes it so delicious. I don’t mean paddling over to a guy who clearly wants to be alone.( I mean trading jokes, How you doing buddy’s, complimenting rides, and sharing the awesomeness of being one with the ocean: that’s the socializing I love. And for those I know better, hearing the latest on the grandchild, or the job search, or working to give up smoking etc. — to me that’s part of surfing too, just as it’s part of life. ) So, I paddled for 2.5 hours— this med works wonders— with some spasticity, but no spasms. Hallelujah! And I chased about 10 waves: my timing is really off having been out of the ocean since October, but also being overexcited. I popped up on 5 waves: the first four the pop up was awful with both feet parallel and facing forward, so I lost the board. The last one, though, I nailed— feet were in place, and I got a nice little drop on a thigh high clean left: I couldn’t move my feet nimble enough to redistribute the weight, or shift my weight around gracefully, so the ride ended quickly....but I got that drop feeling that we all love! But mainly I got pieces of myself back. I got a fun fun fun morning with friends in the ocean!Now, i am thinking of maybe being able to do it again as the body and med allows— before today, I had thought my surfing days were closing. I might look like a kook out there : But I challenge anyone to strap 20lb weights on each ankle, five pounds on each arm, get good and dizzy by spinning around for 5 minutes, and have a gorilla squeezing your shin and ankle muscles, and then try to surf! I am so lucky to be a surfer. And I know it.
So stoked for you Bet! Sounds like an amazing day. I too got to surf with some old and some new friends. Now it’s time to BBQ and drink some beers and enjoy the sunset. Cheers!
So happy to learn you are back in Mother O's warm embrace. Your stoke is gromlike and spreads like a wave. Cheers!
I'm sure you had some "butter flies" (been there) preparing for the trip but all your courage persisted, so happy for you, you're not alone. You really had a great session, so much better than when I got back in the water. As I posted earlier rode drop knee like a kook, Yankee's friend Harry @ the surf camp had me popping up on second day in Costa. Harry is a professional surf coach, he solved the problems I couldn't do myself for 3 years. Whether its a coach or a friend, they can observe and critique our surfing either paddling or popping up as we work through training ourselves to find alternative methods, that once came natural to us. I also didn't have all the paddle power needed to drop in and was missing waves which Yankee observed adding 3 more strokes to my timing. So having friends in the water has its advantages eliminating bad habits while progressing with each session. Since you mention your footing on pop up's; that was difficult for me too being a goofy footer due to permanent damage to my right side core/leg. Our wave count just not high enough to fix that so found the best training tool, a well used "foamie". I cut out carpet to lay under it so its more stable, good work out and helps retain muscle memory. That was one of best ideas that I still use and do today, especially in the off season. GF
That’s my trainer I put together because our wave count around here is obviously not helpful to get reps and muscle memory lol. I usually have a softie on it now, cut in that shape of the Roberts cause it was beat up and wet. The step was to simulate the down angle. it completely changed my poo up, transition and foot work because I was able to practice anytime I wanted for as long as I wanted. Even if you didn’t want to get crazy with Bosu balls and stuff like I did, get those firm foam square blocks you can buy online for gym stuff, put them under a bort you can beat up, and then practice the whole thing: the paddle, the pop up, the footwork. It works amazing. An it’s also a great platform to work out on doing balance work, squats. Just my own little contribution here - hope it helps
Those are very helpful ideas GF and MrB! Nice of you to take the time to share Let me think about how I can do it with my particular medical challenges. When I first learned to pop up, I made a 20 sec video of me doing it correctly. I watche it over and over and over. That viewing also helped with making muscle memory.
That’s exactly what I did as well. I watched and critiqued myself, asked advice and watched other surfers from the far end of the breaks.
I realize this is Betty's treade. And I have always followed her trials & tribulations & victories with great interest. Having said that, reading G-Footer's posts is humbling. I am always puzzled when someone says that I inspire when what the truth is is that YOU inspire me. To know your story, and being able to only imagine what 43 different versions of hell on earth you went through for years, physically, psychologically & emotionally, and then see you out the back surfing.....words fail. I have related your story to many....."There's this friend of mine, he surfs, and you wouldn't believe what he's been through...." I do think of your travails whenever I'm about to bitch about getting skunked - - and the skunking doesn't matter, it's funny, we are alive & it is a good day.
^^ Truth. I've been blessed with good health and still manage to get grumpy about surfing's trials and tribulations. Even maybe for a millisecond (or a lot longer sometimes) actually start feeling beaten down and resentful by silly distractions like no waves, bad waves, work intrusion, having to look after ailing parents, crowds, whatever. Then i think about people like Betty or Goofy Foot...powering through actual real adversity, life altering challenges and having a better attitude (I don't know Betty except through this forum, but I am blessed to actually know Goofy Foot) than i have on most good days. Know that you are inspiring to all of us. Its not a gift you ever had to bestow on us, and it is a gift that nobody except you could give. Thank you both
To both Mitch and Yank - thank you for putting it to words. And no better words could have been said. Well done.
