who here has been surfing this week?

Dawn patrolled again this morning. Picked a different spot that isn't generally overrun with longboarders, and had an absolute blast. There was a solid drift pulling out to sea and north, so you had to work to stay in position, but man - it was fun!!! Solid chest high sets, super glassy, clean & peeling, with the occasional barrel. Crowds weren't bad and for the number of people, every one was super cool. Taking turns, no drop ins, etc. Even the asshat sup guy got the hint after 20 min and moved down the beach. Also lucked into the wave of the day. Head high screamer out of nowhere, offered a small barrel and in the early morning light had that coke bottle green color. Absolutely beautiful, and I just happened to be in the right spot to snag it. Three days of solid chest high+ surf at home and counting (and being able to hit it each day), haven't been this stoked in a long while. Got more waves on tap for tomorrow too!

 

Bring a 44 cal. Bear repellent.

 

Good luck old fella.

 

Take care of yourself, old man.

 

Yeah , surfed again today in NC was really fun until SE winds kinda spoiled it, but by then I was bushed. Hitting it again in the AM, I love being retired! Don’t miss out on the mid week swells

 

!

 

Clean, beautiful waves all day... until I got out of work and the wind went sideshore. Still solid chest to maybe head high on set, but crap conditions and a lot of current. Oh well...

 

Be well you old senile delinquent...

 

Big ol moose cow by my hotel dumpster this morning. She wasn’t very friendly. Didn’t bring moose repellent neither

 

Sounds like an X, what was her name? Ha

 

Pretty fun day of waist to chest high glassy surf in Monmouth County. Just how I like it. Surfed 2 spots over a combined 5 hours or so. Did a little surfing on Monday, also.

Hoping for some more tomorrow!

 

Had my first before work dawn patrol of the year yesterday. Tide was a little low but I got in a solid hour and a half at The Rock before going to school. The kids I teach in Far Rock have no idea there’s waves in their backyard. Great time of year!

 

Don't tell the brats!!

 

Got out at a not so secret inlet mid afternoon and had a blast. 3/2 no boots or gloves. Some solid chest+ sets were showing with fun rights and a few lefts. Forgot how fun a light NE wind can be.

 

Quick sesh this morning at low incoming tide. Wind still blowing onshore and surf was nearly blown out but it was just inviting enough to paddle out on my 6’4” Flashback Fish and get wet.

I didn’t stay out long but I did manage to get a good one before I went back in. Chest - head high disorganized peaks and it was chunky dumpy bumpy.

I was selective and got the one I wanted and that was good enough for me. Wind started to chill out after 30-40 minutes of being out there but it’s not enough to clean up.

Wind will crank again through the afternoon / evening so I hope there will be a clean up tomorrow but not looking too promising. Forecast suggests Saturday it will clean up but swell will be smaller, hopefully not too much though.

 

Surfed blacks with a old friend/potential new customer this morning.
Drops in on me first wave.. I got him back a few sets later.

 

Made a trip to the Outer Banks for the first time since January and scored some really fun surf. A long(er) period swell started filling in Wednesday morning and it got pretty dang fun. It took me almost 2 hrs to settle on a spot but the wind was non-existent and the water was a crazy emerald green. It's crazy how fast sand bars shift around there plus there seemed to be a lot of work going on at my normal go-to's. Still, definitely worth the effort. Most size I've had in a while.

 

Well done Nica...I have been on it this swell and Wednesday, especially first half of day was the best of this swell. Really fun. Nice pic!

 

Finally made it out yesterday, it's been awhile due to family and work. It was a chest to head high ground swell from the north with lots of onshores from the SE, very wonky and bounce house. I hit it at high tide during lunch break. Decided on the LB since it was the only way to out run the closeouts, and dodged around for awhile, and got one decent ride, then one really nice fast sketchy long ride and called it a liquid lunch, came home and scarfed some salmon patties.

Did a dawn patrol this morning. Was still wonky with some size on the sets so I took the fish out, made an airdrop HH right towards the pier on my first attempt, it was a hoot. Lots of closeouts. After one long wave, I petted a shark on the paddle back out. I thought it was a slimy log. Then I heard the guy paddling out behind me say he saw a big shark in the bait ball on the inside.

I got a few more. Last wave, ate it on the drop, went over the nose, straight down and hit the bottom with my head, luckily me head is hard and the bottom was sand. Tweaked my neck a tad. Iced the noggin post session. Feel better. Life is goode LOL.