who here has been surfing this week?

I’m sitting in a bar in Alaska watching my local absolutely going OFF on the cam right now.

I’d hang myself with shoelaces right now if I wasn’t wearing slip-ons

 

Did you make the trip up my way Saturday? I ended up not going. Long story but was dealing with some medical stuff. All is good now. But anyway i heard Saturday was really fun. Was bummed i missed it but considering the circumstances it was ther right call.

 

Got out this am for the first time in a few weeks (due to injury, travel and fatherly duties).
Couldn’t have felt better. Warm sun after a week of cold rain. Chest high and offshoure. Finally felt like a real spring day.

 

What color slip ons...

 

are you wearing a belt?

 

#Metoo
Only a wee bit smaller down here. Took a mental health day. OC in the AM and my spot at noon around low tide. Had it all to myself at my spot, which is the norm from late November till Memorial Day. Sunny day, water was nice. Ate a ham sammich on the beach after the second go round. Good day all around.

 

Nah, Bass. Ended up going to AC. Forecast wasn’t firming up enough. I got it kinda fun, but I bet up north had the goods. Feel better brother. Take the medical stuff serious.

 

Got back to chilly Delaware this morning. This wave below was the culmination of the trip for me, surfing wise. Experiencing the kindness and generosity of the people met, human connections made, natural beauty of the harsh landscape, and learning more about a fascinating country (aware that a surf destination is a very unrepresentative area) will be the biggest impact of the trip.

Anyway, this was a memorable wave I got from the biggest day that I made it out to the lineup, that was captured by a local kid named Luis. The next few days were consistently bigger than this, longer period (i.e. 20 seconds), and the lineup menacing: rocky, sketchy paddle outs in unpredictable currents, guaranteed 12 foot cleanup sets that smoked everyone in the water (often only 2-4 people) and difficulty getting back to shore without encountering more boulders, and currents taking you where you didn't want to go.

Sorry for all of the hyperbole...I'm pretty stoked and dangerously at a keyboard.

This wave went on for quite a few turns, but all survival mode variety.

 

Like Mitchell said, unbelievable trip. I can even begin to describe how much work it was on the big days. I'm still running high like an adrenaline junky from the shit I delt with in the lineup. Mitchell and me spent some time talking on the drive home and really reflected how so much of surfing is the the actual work related to getting the wave (staying in shape, paddling out, taking sets on the head, surviving getting dragged across the rocks and reef, dealing with hold downs), moreso than the wave itself. Even though this is true, speaking of a WAVE, I had to pull out my ipad and show this gif to customs when they asked me if I had anything to claim upon my return to the us!!!!!

https://media.giphy.com/media/fXzmyRvO9tSl6ZmAGx/giphy.gif

I know, I know i'm gloating but I was soooo amped on this wave hahah! Don't know if I'll ever top it.

 

I’d be gloatin like a mofo!

You actually scored on a surf trip, doesn’t always go down that way. Looks like swell/wind were perfect for where you were at! Stoked for ya! Awesome shots

 

Ended up getting a few photos from this session

 

What size board? Waves look fun.

 

Nice! Lol, my buds always razz me b/c I puff out my cheeks when I’m charging! Glad to see I’m not alone!

 

Haha. That’s where all the power comes from!

 

Surfed Tuesday & Wednesday @ TPTSNBN. El Sal looked slightly better lol

Still fun to paddle out on the big boart & muck around in knee to chest refreshing 58 degree water.

 

nice! what kind of rubber are you in? I'll be in north county SD in two weeks.

 

You’ll be fine with a 3/2.
I usually rock a 4/3 in the AM, but it’s been warming up. PM me when you get here. We surf.

 

I did some rodeo surfing on the LB before dark on a full high tide with onshore winds. Surf was peaky waist+, chunky, dumpy, and bumpy. Got some fun ones, worth the paddle out for sure.

 

6'2"Jon Ashton bat tail quad - fishy shape

Its kind of a wierd board for big point surf, but it's the board i ride here at home when the waves get really good, I've had it for 10 years, and I feel like I know exactly what i'm getting every time i ride it.

 

Some long period NE ground swell in the water today with clean conditions early during high tide. I rode the Fish and caught some fast rides, some close outs, some stayed open for a while longer. Mostly waist high with a few bigger than that. Most waves breaking on the inside but a few broke on the mid section. It took a little patience and picky wave selection but it paid off every now and then. Good way to start my Friday.