Interesting choice but looks like it handled. I asked b/c it looks like a bigger board in pic1. Probably just the downward angle.
If duck diving weren't a big factor, i'd have been riding a 6'6" or even bigger in those waves. This is the longest board i have that i feel comfortable getting under big waves and not losing grip. I think (i fact i am sure) i have never been surfing anywhere else where repeated deep duck dives were as big a part of surviving the paddle out and keeping your board through cleanup sets.
^makes sense. I like riding bigger boards when surfing a channel but when you have a lot of waves breaking duckability is critical. Sometimes it’s the chicken or the egg thing...big board quicker paddle out but you get hammered b/c you struggle to duck dive. That wave seems like the sets could swing on you huh?
2nd session today on high tide, tomorrow is full moon so the tide was pretty swampy but there were some nuggets coming in around waist - chest. I rode the 6’ M-80 and had a blast until the sun went down. It’s been very sharky lately with pods of bait fish getting annihilated left and right which kept everybody on edge a bit lol, but lots of fun nonetheless. Now I’m enjoying a few Sierra Nevada Pale Ales.
Another fun high tide session this morning. Thigh - waist with the occasional chest high set, the larger ones you had to wait for, but when they rolled through they had some power behind them. Lately my sand reconne and spot selection has been on point. Not many spots were working like the ones i’ve been hitting. I rode the LB first and then when I realized there was a good amount of energy in the waves I switched to the Fish. 3hrs went by so fast.
Short period chest high sets today. Glassy and a bunch of left and right barrels. Great cure for last nights shenanigans. Dsup, what part of FL againe? You seem to surf as much as I do in SD. Been kicking around the idea of moving to FL
Scored some wind choppe early this morning.. NW winds are not very good, even though they are still offshore. A lot of work to stay in position. Nonetheless, scored some fun lefts and was good as always to get wet, especially since it had been a while. Apparently I missed some good waves the last few days according to my bud, but at least I got a lil' sump'n today.
I live in Melbourne, surf all over Brevard County and sometimes Volusia County. Waves are consistent but not as good as SD quality wise, but there are days that are equal.
Nice. I’ve been scoping out satellite beach area. I checked out the area when I was thinking about enrolling at brevard cc another lifetime ago - before I really surfed. Remember it being a chill little town.
That’s a great place to live and surf. And New Smyrna, Ponce Inlet aren’t far away if it’s flat at home there’s usually something up there, 45 min - hour away.
Been surfing quite a bit the past 4 days or so. Went down to LBI and scored some fun waist high stuff the other day. Been a lot of thigh high stuff the other days in Monmouth and in Cape May today, but still pretty fun to have 4 days of swell in May like this. Enjoying the surf and my break I get in the Spring/Summer!
Man, I keep getting lucky at my favorite spot. I surfed for 4hrs this morning, the last 90 minutes of incoming high tide and the first 2.5hrs of outgoing. It was thigh - waist early and then when the tide switched it was consistently waist high with better sets in the stomach / chest high range. Glassy perfection on the LB with long rides and had the place to myself, again.
Well, dam DP321 I thought you were on the West coast of Fla. My doma is Cocoa Beach.....I'm in Asskrakastan and it is a HUGE beach looking for an ocean....Catch some for me. I'll be back mid June.
I grew up on the Gulf, but made the East Coast my home almost 4 years ago. The miles I was racking up driving to NSB, Ponce, and all of Brevard nearly every weekend, year after year, finally took its toll.
Waist high glassy peaks this morning, a few a little bigger than that would A-frame and connect all the way to the beach on the LB. The sand bars at my lonely swell magnet are perfect right now. It doesn't take much swell and they continue to break. It's been a fun mix of short period windswell with long period background swell. I'm sun burnt, my muscles are fatigued, but as long as it's rideable, I'm on it!
Say Hey! What's Happening? Everyone's been surfing. Getting a couple a surfs in myself here and there. The warmer weather helps my brain green light rougher conditions more and increased daylight giving more opportunities to do so. A couple of surfs stand out. A day of chest high fast breaking beach bombs one morning. Paddled out at one of the most crowded bunch of peaks I've been on in a while. Usually avoid the crowds but it was so much better than anything around it. Besides there were plenty of waves going unridden. A drift kept everyone working but there were a lot of bodies in the water than actual people taking waves. Almost like the crowd was so thick that no body went because they didn't want to drop in on someone. I didn't fight the drift. Just drifted through, snagged a few waves, and walked back to repeat. Did that until it got to be too much. Dudes were everywhere and I had a 3/2. One drift I didn't catch anything worth while and the cold just crept in so I called it. Spent the rest of the day trying get the warmth back by skating some long bunny hills with the kids. Ate a lobster roll and worked in the yard. Veggies are in. Had another good one last week. Felt like surfing an easier wave that would give my old age a second to get my act together after catching it. Found a waist high soft peeler breaking over the rocks and it went for a while. Rode the fish and used it's volume and lightness to keep it more radical. Felt a lot like skating the bunny hills actually. Tide killed it before I really got my fill so I moved over to another beachie and caught a dozen shorebreak death bombs. That did it. Still went home and hit the hills again. It is just too fun. it's like a 2 pitch with a couple of short 3 and 4 pitch runs. New black top on the street and just about everyone re did their drive way as well. nice little ramps on both sides. Ready for more waves of course. But a rolling hill is seeming to do the trick too.
Swell has come down a tad but I still was able to catch some knee - thigh LB sliders this morning on the low - mid incoming tide. Some connected all the way to the sand. Water felt amazing, calm perfect glassy conditions.
Fun, clean little peelers yesterday... bunch of ya-hoos in the water swimming, 'cause their college semester is over. Here we go....