who here has been surfing this week?

Sunday, chest to head with solid OH sets, clean, offshore all day, and just freaking pumping. Plus it was 80 degrees out. How often does that happen? And friends and family were chilling on the beach, with many snacks and libations on hand. I wish days like this were the norm and not the exception.

 

Surf was real good yesterday right down the street from our house. Got a ton of great pictures but had to cut it short because some idiot lost control of his car and smashed my parked car pretty badly and ended up in my neighbor's yard. Thank god none of the little kids on our street were out playing. Had a fatal pedestrian accident about 100 yards from our house on Friday evening too. Can't wait for Labor Day.

 

Glassy head high long period ground swell this morning. I rode the 5'8" Fish, which proved to be challenging on the high - mid outgoing tide. Difficult finding a good take off or a shoulder, but it improved as the tide dropped some and I got a few bomb sets that made me smile. Kinda wish I was on my 6'4" but i'm happy with the ones I got today. It got crowded quick too, I wasn't at my lonely sand bar today.

 

Great waves all weekend. Lots of fun... lots of sun. Lots of food... lots of booze. Not enough sleep.

 

Holiday and Friday evening drivers around here are among the worst.

 

Sounds like lots of fun in the sun this weekend. Family beach time with fun waves Sunday and Monday. Surfed with my cuz Sunday day and an old friend Monday. Winds could have been better yesterday but the AM was really fun. Sunday evening we stayed on the beach until sunset...super long day with a big crew of family and friends. We had 28 in our crew blasting tunes and enjoying the weather...

 

Drove out on the beach on Sunday to do some fishing and I wish I would have brought my board. Def some fun looking little waves came through that morning! Here is a pic of my buddy taking the yak out and then one of him in the oh shit zone. HA HA Good times!!

 

Sunday was so fun Mitch ......... 2 sessions, as sweet as the AM waves were I couldn't do anything right though redeemed myself that evening on the new "blue" Tim Nolte, pop ups were good.

Your "twinee" you shape is SWEET, darker "sea foam" green, "swellies" to see it ...............

 

Thanks boss. I've posted pictures of this board before. It's stringerless EPS. I think the dims are 5'2" x 21" x 2 3/8" Very excited about this board based on about 5 sessions on it. The speed potential is unreal. Once you are up and pumping it seems to have no practical top end...you just run out onto the shoulder. Harnessing the speed is the challenge, not making it. For the summer around there that's a good board trait.

I was very stoked to see you getting waves...i know limited winter surfing makes every spring a challenge to get back into the groove.

 

That is quite a bitchen hybrid there.

Do I detect a smidge of displacement hull in the entry foil?

 

Clean long period groundswell leftovers around thigh - waist with the occasional chest high set this morning, but there is a wait for the bigger ones. I rode my 6’ M-80 and caught some shorepounders and a few off the mid bar for longer rides. I tried tucking into a few mini barrels but no dice.

 

Ran down to blacks in the dark this morning.
Small crowd. Glassy head high+ barrels before the tide kinda swamped it.

This was waiting at the top of the trail when I got back up

 

Surfed the "senior tour" late morning, all local "ole guys don't rule" group and 1 girl who just turn 70. We pretty much had the break to ourselves having fun with some left over knee high clean & glassy nuggets

 

I've been a few times in the last week.

It wasn't a terrible month of May. Not as good as the last two May's, though.

 

Nothing towards you. I myself am in relatively good shape. Could probably stand to loose 5 lbs or so but I'm very active and not heavy at all. My wife snapped a very similar photo of me but I was more into the pop up.
When she showed me, I thought damn from a distance, I look just like Bubs's avatar.

 

Where were you this day? Cause it was crazy aweome down my way too. Non stop for two hours til top of tide. Crazy sets and powerful/fast that cross off wind was amazing

 

It's gonna be barely knee high tomorrow but I'm off from work and I'm desperate to get wet.

 

Dude can you even knee high? I can’t anymore! I hope you get a thigh high set!!!

 

Epic thigh-high close outs

 

My summer surf routine: Morning surf check. Stand there for 20 minutes... see something and say to myself, "that one looked rideable." Go back to the truck and grab log; paddle out. Sit there for 1/2 hour... belly one in. Sit on beach for another half hour watching... hoping... praying. See something and say to myself, "that one looked ridable." Repeat ad nauseam...