who here has been surfing this week?

Last Saturday set up the coolers the tables the tents for 30, then paddled out on my ho made fish and got a few ankle to thigh hi pockets of stoke. Then ate and drank then body surfed for an hour, then ate and drank more, then boogie boarded with the kiddies, then drank more, then loaded the whole mess back up and went home to nurse my toasted body.

Sunday just my wife and I, took the LB and drifted for a while, paddled for a while, nada surf. Monday got some of the epic waist high long period close out swell on the NA fish, hair stayed dry it was so weak and inconsistent, but it was a wave (or two, I lost count I'm soooo sun baked).

Glad ya'll had some fun ones up north. Life is goode.

 

I didn't bother. It's not even rush hour yet and it's already a shiite show. Flat tomorrow, ankle to knee on Sunday. Monday looks ride-able but I'm working. Mid week looks like a bump but winds look messy. I might have to don my bathing costume and go for swim.

 

Time for a whiskey instead?

 

Hopefully we will get some more late spring action soon.. Door is closing though.

 

Yeah I’m kinda screwed temporarily, strained or tore the radial nerve/muscle in my left forearm the day I got back from Alaska.

Doc gave me Flexoril which is kinda cool. Waited a week until yesterday to try sarfin, and just aggravated the shit out of it on my very first takeoff. Hurt on takeoff, hurt on the bottom turn and hurt going off the top. Muy feo (ugly).

Then, to make things worse, I stayed out for another 4 waves and took a few on the head and strained the bicep above the original strain.

Looks like I’m out of the wadder for a couple weeks.

Oh well, the fucast for the next 10 looks sucky anyways

 

Went to San Diego last week, hit up Legoland, Pizza Port, Scripps Aquarium, drank a lotta IPAs, and ate a lotta mex comida. Weather and surf were not that great, either cold, grey, rainy or windy or clean, weak waist high. I opted not to struggle into the 4/3. Am I lame?

 

Get well compadre

 

Speedy recovery roque

 

Get better dude... rest up to fight another day

 

I always get skunked in SD.

What do you think of Roberto's?

 

I went to one in a strip mall, don’t know if it was legit one. Chicken burrito was ok but my wife didn’t dig her greasy quesadilla

 

Sounds all too familiar.

 

kind of a surprise swell today...wasnt expecting to surf, went to work for a bit, but noticed the buoy was reading 2.6 @ 8 sec and 70 degree water so brought board, trunks, and shorty. Checked surf around low tide noonish and was pleased to see some 2 foot lines coming with some period to the swell. It had that look that incoming tide was going to bump things up a bit.

Paddled out with longboard, trunks. Full on 2 hour session of fun thigh high lined up surf, with a few waves pushing waist high once the tide push came. was chilly but glad i wasnt wearing the wetty...it was a summer vibe in the water and most were trunking it. From around 2 p.m.

 

You always get some great pics.. i enjoy your posts

 

I was hopeful we would get a little something too, but passed right by us.

 

Thanks for the pics, Mitch. Thanks for the stoke.

 

I paddled out, sat on LB, surrounded by 6 of the cutest Chicks, local Girl's Rule Squad, they're so sweeeeeeeet
Mitch shot a Pic of one of our local surfer girls, she scores a "10" in and out of the water.

 

finally, we had some waves that i thought were rideable. thi to waist! Saturday super early morning, moved into the beach house the day before. Took the LB out nearby the pier. It was pretty hectic crowd, summer soft top crew is in. i had myself plenty, somehow avoiding the crowd, and found myself situated with some wahines. I overheard one of them saying after scoring a wave, "I didn't see it (wave) coming, but i saw that guy's (me) face and figured i should go for it". I do remember what she was talking bout, was eyeing that wave from 200 yds out and i'd imagine my face resemblant of cartoon eyes out of the skull - all for a waist hi swell. that's how bad it's been down here the last few weeks

 

Thanks!