Since the forecast rest of the week looks so "gray" thought I catch last "green" knee high glassy day with new blue Tim Nolte log. Sand bar @ local break into its funky summer profile so stoke was short lived ..........
Get out after work. Knee to thigh with the occasional waist high wave...super glassy with light offshores. Had the long board, and the waves were peeling for days. Didn’t catch one wave, didn’t even surf. BUT, I did push my 5 yo daughter into her very first solo wave. She rode it all the way to the beach, and as the board came to a gentle stop in the sand (thank god she didn’t get catapulted in the shore break) screamed in delight yelling that was awesome, most fun ever, and I wanna do that again. I have never been this stoked for another person before. Pure bliss.
Picture I took of my buddy, and co-worker last Friday morning...hoping this Friday is roughly the same.
We've had nothing but 20 knot onshores and 2 foot slop for almost 3 straight weeks...and the long range fucast doesn't look any better. Even on MSW, the new best surfing forecast site. except theirs is red, not gray
Haha, I always seem to take my trips during the summer when I should actually be taking them in the winter when we're getting an inch of rain daily with 20' swells.
work was making me crazy today. felt like i was slowly dying sitting at the computer. HAD to get wet and the buoy is reading 2' @ 5 seconds. theres one (easily accessible) spot on delmarva that that i know of anyway that can sometimes jack up a rippable waist high peak out of tiny south swell pulses on an incoming tide. its a very fickle spot that hardly anyone checks anymore. if Ben Gravy surfed on Delmarva this area would be his hotspot as there are at least 5 novelty waves within paddling distance. low tide was 3:30 and at 4:00 it had a bit of promise. by 5:30 knee high wedges that occasionally pushed close to waist on the wedgy peak, clear warm water. got a nice little summer sesh with 4 friends. very stoked.
feelings mutual Mitchell, bout work at least. into the gray this morning, so.cold... not really. it was chop, drifty, n bout stomach hi at the right peaks. got 3 rides in and felt better. they were dumpy so if ya got in the wrong spot, likely damage. i'm hoping for something tomorrow morning, toes crossed
Got out yesterday (after a shizzy month+ of work) in some lumpy, shifty 2-4' on the new 5'10 twin. Second wave I caught was like "this is super squirrely, something is not right". One of my TA hobie keels had fallen out. So that was the end of that and no waves for like the next week. F me.
What if the gray matter is psychological warfare? Every time we gaze at it we get a little crazier. Hopefully answers soon... In the mean time, Christmas comes early. Just dropped a new raw edit featuring the City of 23 footers. Check it out in Mozilla or Chrome in 1440 or 4k for best visual.
Nice work man. Pretty sure the dude at the 18 second mark with the blue/pink bottom is my arch nemesis from my locale.
tonight was the tits. Just completely unexpected super fun waves. truly walked across the beach expecting knee high weakness. once the tide started in this evening, it was so damn fun. from around 7 p.m, Delmarva: