who here has been surfing this week?

Headed down to RI for some early morning waves. Little crowded but not to the point where it wasn’t fun. No boots needed, summer weight suite, some folks trunking it but I think I’ll wait a few more degrees for that.

Not much seaweed. Yet. No sharks seen.

 

Sloppy chunky shore break but they had some angle to them so it made for a short, fun little ride. But wasn’t aboot me today. Took the fam, wifey got to relax on the beach, and had the boys on the softtop. Youngest had his first legit green wave ride. He was so stoked and has been talking aboot it since. Pumped for him, it was awesome to watch

 

Got the leftover leftovers today. Rode the LB. Knee to thigh high, super clean little runners. Rides went all the way to the sand. Squat low and drag a hand in the face. Didn't get to the nose on any but had fun cross stepping around.

It was a blast honestly. I wasn't expecting to have as much fun as i did. Got about 2 hours in. I got somewhere near 10 hours water time in the last three days. Completly shot now but it was all worth it. Really really really fun past couple days.

 

Surfed some whale farts this morning. I used a 7-ft funshape and went to spot that had some super clean 1-2 ft lines. Water was cool from upwelling but felt good since it's been super humid af. Fun for what it was, once the tide started to come in and the bars got some more water over them, you can trim a little bit before it dumped on shore. Beautiful morning and great beach day, but ready for some real waves.

 

I went bowling lol, sounds fun though. Glad you got some salt water in your veins.

 

Today capped a great trip with the swell that wouldn’t die. Yesterday was tough because we missed the sesh and it was the perfect middle ground between some big mean punchy sets that would just up and slap you if you were the slightest bit off or slow, and keep slapping for five or six. Ranged from stomach high/chest high to some sets
head high plus, they played low and then in about a 3 count went from too early to pop up, to full on vertical faces in waist deep water. If that’s like Jersey surfing, you boys have even more of my respect now lol. I did really well with my 8’4” fishy but it required an immediate left or right turn or I was squeezing it into that face and keeping nose from digging until bottom turn. My poor daughter got caught inside on a six wave set that had her in the only dam spot on the Gilgo seashore that was over 6’ deep - had her a tad nervous until she saw hover Dad next to her. She tried her best to time the waves and had several that she bailed on the lip - good calls all. It was too much and she knew it and was smart enough to wait for hers.
Fast forward to today? We had a blast and she caught waves all morning long and had her stoke back big time! Afternoon cookout with Bass and the Missus before the trek back was a great way to end another awesome trip with my daughter that will have memories for her the rest of her life. She was taking care of that board herself tonight and had the biggest smile I’ve seen in a long time so this Dad is a very happy man right now.

 

Longest flat spell I can remember

 

If it makes you feel better, we now enter our flat spell that lasts 3 months lol...
Thank God for RI I guess until another surf adventure.

 

Yeah, this blows. Had a fun day last week, but mostly just flat.

It was so hot today, I took a dip in the ocean in my trunks. 66 degrees. Pretty cold. Pretty much just been riding bicycles, riding my other bike and riding my (as I call it) my water bike. And a stationary bike, as well hahaha.

Still planning an Oahu trip for some point in late July or early August. Has to be two weeks long.

 

I surfed the other day, it was pretty small. Really small. Got a few lil ones on the LB. Now not even a ripple but swellinfo says it’s gray and 3ft.

Early Saturday morning was fun, but smallish. Again it was suppose to be 3ft and gray.

 

Beginning of the week had some longboardable waves at mid-to-high tide, the sandbar was working perfectly, nice little clean lines, blue-green water. Used a 7'-0" mini-longboard-hull whatchamajigger, glides perfectly on little waves. Was fun but yesterday that tiny swell eventually faded. It was probably just something to get us through the month. Summer flatness in full effect. Not a complete loss though, as there are tons of eye candy on the beaches

 

Flatter than flat. Longest flat spell I can recall.

 

def one of the longest in memory as well. i might have to travel out on the 4th wknd so hopefully some ppl talk it up here so i know haha. in the meantime, i bought a kayak

 

Made a little edit from the Cosmic Jersey Surf Contest at Manasquan Inlet last Saturday. Conditions were pretty small, but dudes still found a way to rip it. Every heat the contestants would trade off between single fins and twin fins, etc. It had a very cool overall vibe. It's flat so you might as well check it out!

 

Finally had some rideable surf today. I went to my favorite reef spot, got there about 30-45 minutes before low tide, wind was supposed to be light SE but as I walked up the boardwalk I felt a stiff onshore breeze with storm clouds sitting offshore.

I knew it would probably rain any minute, so I just waited for it to pass which only took about 10 minutes, then the wind died down and it turned into a nice day. I surfed for 3 straight hours on the LB, catching wave after wave in the knee - waist range, the larger sets came when the tide started coming in.

I had fun for what it was, definitely better than another day of flatness. Stoke levels higher today than they were yesterday. My wife had food ready when I got home. She cooked me a breakfast bowl with potato browns, eggs, and bacon topped with green peppers, scallions, and shredded cheddar cheese.

Now I’m sippin on a Kona Castaway IPA and sitting on the screened patio overlooking the lake enjoying this light rain shower passing through.

 

Small weak surf today, but warm weather and water made it nice. Large clueless crowd signifies the official start of Surfing Season.

Arm was fine, so I'm back in the water. Here's hoping the rest of you lame ducks heal up enough to get back out there too.

 

Some more small LB waves today, knee - thigh and clean for 2hrs, then slightly bumpy for the last hour. Fun weekend.

 

There was a chick wearing a G String on a foam LB today.

 

took the 5 4 disc out sat morning. small and weak but that's what that board was made for.

 

Surfed 4 hours Sunday. Best part - shared a peak with a friend I used to surf with all the time but hadn't seen in close to a year....it seemed like the conversation just picked up right where it left off - I love that. Low tide needed for these small waves, but between 2 hours before low to 2 hours after low it was small fun. Surfed first two hours on the longboard, then the incoming tide pulsed things up a but and surfed another two on the 5'8" mini simmons plank. That board makes surfing soft two foot waves a blast. Water temps in the mid 70s. Full on summer conditions. Shot these around 2 p.m. Everyone was having a blast.