who here has been surfing this week?

Ocean City, NJ

 

Thanx.

 

Hit the beach in RI this weekend, mostly to escape the heat but brought the LB in case. There were some choppy crappe waves to be had, without too much seaweed. Good to paddle around but the surfing was terrible all in all. Fun day for kids to learn - a couple kids have a great time on foamies on the inside which is cool to see.

 

Ocean has been 75 plus for weeks now , although I expected a shock of upwelling , it has not happened . Current front looks stationary with a weak low forming , should be a small s push manana

 

Yeah, it was brutal. Water was much better yesterday. Back up into the upper 60s....

 

Fun little stomach high groundswell waves last night before dark.

 

Good fun for the early folks, long peeling rights in tropical water

 

There's been small surf here for over a week but the leg pain has me not going. I went once and did great for over an hour. Handful of good rides, one really good and really small on the 10' 50-50. First attempt surfing in 3 months. I cannot straighten out my leg to paddle or lie prone or sit on my board, so i just flop around like the biggest kook into position hop up last second and go, drag myself up to my feet and hope there is still some wave left by the time i am standing and surfing. This has not been easy for me to accept. I'm a shortboarder!
Every once in a while a three times bigger actual wave pops up. Like i said it has been doing it all week but my pain is unreal. Like clenching my teeth in agony.

 

Holy Mackerel beachbreak! What the heck happened to your leg? I am taking inspiration from you. I bet you don’t look like a kook out there. I bet you look like an injured, ambitious SURFER who is not giving up on his dream to surf.

 

Man, what caused that? You may want to have it checked out. Wishing you a speedy recovery.

 

Some fun little waves out there this morning.

 

If you have no recollection of an injury to cause the pain, and if you feel the pain is deep seated in your calves or thighs, I suggest you see an MD NOW!! A cause of such pain may be DVT (deep vein thrombosis) a leg clot. Get that attended to immediately as you do not want a clot to break away and end up in your lungs.
I am worse casing it, yes. But better to be safe than sorry.
Good luck and may good health be with you once you get that properly treated. Do NOT go to a chiro, or any non MD practitioner.....see a medical doctor.

 

Good looking out Barry,

 

I outlived my treatment on a big tumor in my leg 2013. Gallons of poison chemotherapy doxorucibin and adriamycin, then burn it to death with radiation, then surgery remove it with my entire femoris rectus quadriceps.
Then 2017 more radiation higher up new deep upper thigh strange growing enhancement unable to biopsy or remove.

Tried aspiration of unknown etiology hip effusion with sclerosis doxycycline one hour dwell time to no effect twice, first in april and then again in june, waiting on 3 months scan results had this week, pain management thinks it is nerve pain from all the tissue damage, which is very difficult to treat.
Pain has increased since october, getting worse each month,
and i try everything one step at a time, harvard, columbia, penn, md's,phd's.
The professional biofreeze works a little.
The new 1.8% ztlido 12-hour lidocaine patch works a little.
The 1% ibuprofen topical gel works a little.
Ibuprofen works but it is not good to take regularly.
Now i am going with very low dose lyrica and building my way up it takes time to get the full effect.

Waves were awful today but i got one great ride so at least i am surfing.

Everyone is screaming at me to get medical marijuana, but i never saw anyone benefit from it in the '70's, and none of my manydoctors have mentioned it.

 

That's one hell of a tough road, Beachbreak. I appreciate you sharing that.
Medicinal marijuana might be a consideration, but who am I to say? It's not the panacea many are promoting...much of which I think is just wishful thinking.
One's attitude is so important. Good to hear you're still paddling out. Keep on charging!

 

BB I second the words from XX Keep charging, you never know where you'll find some answers

 

Today my husband brought me to the inlet and met up with my awesome crew of 9 to surf and celebrate the return and remarkable incidence of courage of one of the crew. There was a lot to plan for in terms of medical issues, transportation, and being sure the wheelchair would be available— the only feature not under my control. It all worked out perfectly!

We had a nice sharing of muffins and talk before paddling out. I just love the socializing that goes on amongst our crew during a sesh. It really increases the vibe and stoke!

Valhalla was also there!

Lucky for us, the waves were clean, with some push, about knee to hip high waves And there was a super friendly vibe ion the line up as most of them were the usual locals. They know what I am up against, and I notice they clear the way for me to surf…so sweet…..Its so nice to feel so welcomed and encouraged!

After a slow start of missed waves, and a lousy pop up, the wave got better as did I. I scored 4 really nice rides, good pop ups, was able to stand n the board the whole time, turn left, enjoy the floaty drop on one of the larger set waves. Boy I missed this!!!! IF this is my last sesh, I am satisfied!

Science cannot understand how It is I can still surf. Who cares that it flummoxes science— it is a blessing I will take no questions asked. OF course, Science has also created an oasis of 5 hours of better function of legs, with a pill. So I am grateful to science.

IT made me think of Barry and his fight to get back to surfing, and beachbreak (what was his other name?) at SI and his fight to surf with hideous pain.



Surfing is the source of life.