The waves were pretty fun this weekend. Scored some long period southern hemi swell. 19 second period sneaker sets with offshore winds and proper tide in the morning.
BB: Def try MMJ My pain is neurologically based. MMJ is a life saver. I don’t know if it would help your type, but it won’t hurt, except your wallet. Go see a MMJ practitioner: The ratio of THC to CBD is pretty key to what type of pain it will help. My preference is the tincture under the tongue. Works in 45 minutes, lasts 5 hours once you get the right dose nailed down. Mine gives me zero side effects. Works better than any of the western meds that wee tried. Your MD may have a closed mind about it since there is minimal research except coming out of Israel. The Feds made sure research in USA would be illegal on MMJ.
Hit a spot north of the city last night and it was surprisingly fun. More size that I thought and a bit choppy but still some good rides to be had for sure. Probably could have used a spring suite but the air was warm enough to make it fine without. Always cool to surf into shore under the last rays of sunset. A lot of people out of course but not too many that it was a problem.
It had been two weeks since my last surf and two months since my last visit to the secret inlet. I usually go up there often this time of year just to get a little something but there has been no reason to do so this summer due to the persistent flatness. But there was a little bump in the forecast with this NNE wind swell that I knew wouldn't arrive on my shore. It didn't look great on the cam Saturday evening but it would be my only chance to surf for the foreseeable future so I decided roll the dice and make the drive up early Sunday. Go before you know as Betty says. Fortunately, when I arrived I found clean little (less than 23 foot) liners, glassy with a slight texture. At least I wouldn't be getting skunked. As Betty said, there was a really positive vibe in the water. I think everybody was just happy to have something to surf again. I ended up surfing for over four hours (with breaks) racking up boatloads, maybe even shiploads, of fun (<23') waves. The best part of my day, however, was sharing some of Betty's joy as she paddled out to the line up and rode a bunch of waves. I had a sneaking suspicion that she might make her return Sunday because the conditions (<23') were just perfect for it. It was so cool to witness all Betty's crew and most of the locals cheering each time she popped up on a wave and took it to the shore. Betty was radiating happiness! Awesome! Betty, as Barry said, please don't give up. Yes, do it for yourself because you love it and it is essential but also because it is inspiring to the rest of us. This also goes for Barry and Beacbreak and all the others that power through their physical limitations and other difficulties in order to get back to this source of life. The courage and strength on display is amazing. It is humbling and makes most of my troubles seem minor in comparison. Bravo! You don't stop dancing because you get old. You get old because you stop dancing. Keep dancing for as long as you possibly can.
That is awesome. Got a few myself like that size after dinner. We grilled some of those meatless bloody burgers you see on the news. Believe it or not it was pretty good. Kinda like a McDonalds burger. Didn't over do it either. Just a pickle and some Ketchup Went to the b after. Waves were just enough to wash the work off. I was all alone and got spooked for no real reason. Had to get out after a while. Just felt sharky and once you feel that way, you feel that way. If you get my drift. Ate frozen milky ways with wine and watched a heck of a sunset.
twas a small swell this morning. long period swells but clean lines. knee to thi to rare waist. got up early for this one, ready to scoop up sumtin to daydream about. 50/50 about going in, but it proved worthy after a few rides. they closed out pretty good, but tried to sneak out - never did. got a lil salty after some ppl showed up n one who just did took what woulda been my last one out. got another a lil while later and a yards further. turned into a mob real quick - but all in all i'm pretty lifted. it's a hold out until the wknd swell
Made an edit of the Catch Surf Squad in LBI. They came about two weeks ago. Everyone was a having a ball. Fun times.
So the soft top revolution is here and it quite possibly may be a hipster movement at this point. There were 3 dudes out this weekend on soft tops (1 surfed okay other 2 went straight). The funny thing about ‘the other 2’ is one was out and later the other showed up. They were like “what’s up bro?” And all that. One had a blue board the other pink. Later, they switched boards and even shared a wave. Pretty sure both groomed their beards. Regardless, they were stoked and that is cool... Good vid Kan...just tripping out on how popular it has become on east coast. OBBC has on their sign that they have soft tops...
State? Foamie Citay there. Yet, some of those teenagers on those yuge boarts don't miss a wave & they step to the nose like slicks. TPTSNBN was really great. Drove down a few miles, had a break all to self, 3 hrs of goodness & fun around Low.