Hi- I’m looking for some advice on what to get for my next surfboard as I just broke my 8’ Greco soft top foam board. -I’m 140lbs -Not a beginner but not intermediate - I can ride down the line ok in medium and small surf (beach break and point), some turning but just started learning that. I Catch 40-50% of the waves I go for. -Go out about 1/week for the last year -primarily surf Venice south of the pier which is a beach break and often has lots of close outs - I do best on clean days with medium moving waves I’m looking for my next board as I’m progressing pretty well right now, but don’t want to go too small as it seems like it takes a long time to get the hang of smaller boards (a buddy about my level got a 6’8” modern high line and it took him weeks and weeks to even get up on it so that seems too advanced)
IMO, if you're just starting to do turns, you're still in the beginner category. As a replacement, I suggest getting an 8 ft mini mal or egg...poly or epoxy. You'll get opinions either way on the benefits and drawbacks of both materials. There should be plenty of used ones on the market. http://www.surfscience.com/topics/types-of-surfboard/funboard/the-mini-mal But going the longboard route is not a bad suggestion. Wave count is what you want right now.
Thanks for the input. A 9’ longboard seems pretty tough in Venice since the waves close out pretty quickly. I’ll start looking for a minimal or fun board around 8’ length. Would there be much difference between going slightly shorter like 7’6” or 7’2” minimal? I’d like to go for epoxy for weight.
If you weigh 140 pounds, are already surfing regularly, and want to progress to shorter boards, then get a shorter board. BUT get something with some width. I'd be looking for a board in the 6'10' - 7'2" range but an egg shape or small funboard. If you are already doing fine on an 8'0" then nothing over 7'6" foot, and definitely nothing that is "high performance." Unless you're going up and cracking the lip and doing full cutbacks (you arent), then the weight differential of poly vs. epoxy is not a factor you should worry about.
Get an actual surfboard. 6'10" single fin for small surf. Learn how to surf. And stop wasting time. There's waves to be ridden.
Few even advanced surfers can turn on an 8 ft soft top. That, and the fact venice is a crappy surf spot, is going to exponentially slow your progression. You should drop down to a 7 ft soft top next (you'll get used to it) and don't even think about turns until you drop to a 6 ft soft top...and go to a better spot like el porto.
No shit man...i paddled out last week on an 8' soft top last week in really fun waves just because a friend had one sitting on the beach. Brand new Almond "R-Series" board. A freaking $500 soft top! I couldn't believe how BAD it was. SO damn slow when I hopped to my feet and started down the line on a nice clean wave I almost fell forward over my front foot - it felt like the brakes were on.
Here you go. Board is in Venice. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/spo/d/venice-custom-funshape-pintail-surfboard/6955437870.html
Yeah, but you can get used to them (the "stiff" ones w/ triple stringers, etc) and crank out some decent turns on the shorter models. Definitly not as forgiving as a hard board and hard bottom turns are particularly difficult ...you really have to in steep waves and be on your "A" game. I wish I could get back on my hardboards, but, after 3 years of this knee shit, doesn't look like that's ever going to happen.
Thanks guys. Update: I got a used 51 liter 6’6” chili pretty sweet which has been pretty decent as it’s not hard to stand up on and I just need to get a little better at my timing. I’ve caught a bunch of waves but it does require more timing ability than my old board. Also I need to figure out how to get up on the rail as I nose dive this thing a bit too much. Thanks for all the advice
thanks for the ride report.Iwas thinking about that board but my I kinda knew it would ride like a pig.
Obviously the performance curve on a softtop is not supposed to be like a HP board. The problem w almond's version and other companies is that it tries too hard to be a HP and therefore become overpriced. I don't work for Catch Surf, but I own a few of their boards and absolutely love the 8' log. 1ft days become ridable with the amount of volume packed into it. Any questions on the possibilities of what a softtop can do can easily be remedied by watching JOB ride one at pipe. And...ugh this thread is like 7 months old nvmd
I've been surfing for about 6 months and began w/ an 8 ft log (after renting/borrowing/etc) and really love it. As you say -- it catches everything and I've even become pretty adept at turning on it -- given the way they make it. While I'd still rate myself a beginner, I've picked it up pretty quick given I've been snowboarding for most of my life. The only issue I have with the east coast swell on bigger days is it's nearly impossible to get the log past the break with the volume it has. Any suggestions for a second or secondary board for bigger days as you kind of enter the beginner / intermediate category?
Try harder or quit. It's also shark season . Surf season starts June 1 to September 30. Always surf near a lifeguard.