who here has been surfing this week?

We have this beach replenishment problem. There is swell but it breaks on the beach.

 

The beaches in my town get replenished regularly going back to 1992. Each replenishment actually helps the surf in my town. The surf we get these days is far better than it was during the first decade that I surfed before that program began. We get a brief period of time where its messed up but after a storm or two things sort out. Our surf is more powerful and rippable than it ever was before beach replenishmenrts began.

The key factors seem to be that my town has a good bit of curves and contours to it. Second our jetties reach out further than in other beach towns where beach replenishment creates featureless beaches and crap surf.

 

Bermuda high Se wind swell filled in nice this morning. Low tide incoming delivered the summer small wave goods on Delmarva. Fun sesh with Pumpmaster

 

Correct. We are wide open northsouth crap.

 

Why are you so triggered? I didn’t talk about your handicap. You’re making up arguments over nothing. This so-called “revolution” you speak of is certainly not mine. I’m simply stating what it is.

If you’re pissed about soft tops, maybe you should march into the hundreds of thousands of surf shops throughout the world and condemn them for teaching lessons with them. Probably 99% of shops are using them. Then you can lead your crusade against the pros and their marketing hype. I’m sure they’ll all stop because you pointed the finger.

And don’t forget to tell all the volunteer organizations, e.g. heart of surfing, to stop using their soft tops with kids with disabilities or wounded vets.

What a joke. Maybe you’d fare off better on a soft top.

 

What we have here is a failure to communicate.
You really got me 100% wrong.
The last thing i would do is waste one thought on this.
I was trying to clarify and i failed.
Whatever else you wrote today i will correct.
I was wrong. Jayd said revolution. You said trend.
You are wrong. You said we have to commend. No. I do not.
My point. I just didn't realize. And it doesn't affect me.
Because our waves are shit. And spread out.
I mentioned my leg pain because that means i stay far from anyone else, so it really doesn't affect me.
I have a wonderful quiver. I would not need to ride a soft board.
What anyone else does in the water has no effect on me.
You posted video. I responded. You responded. I responded to correct your interpretation. And you sent this. So here i am again. My thought was shock that the gravyobrien video was what i perceived.
Whatever that meant you got me all wrong because i can make the case that surf camp surf shop softie marketing is just a bunch of bullshit that means nothing to me personally, whether it is some positive surf community marketing boom to surf industry and good charity or not.
It's whatever.
Did you ever think maybe i just don't see things your way, and that's ok?
I also mentioned my leg because i thought to find some common ground with you, since i thought you were recovering from surgery and can relate to being unable, and guess what like it or not i lead the large group youth surf community at this beach and have for decades, and am a beloved local and we do the whole thing very differently with real boards and everybody's stoked!
Different stokes for different folks. Their way is not the only way.
I for one appreciate much of your contributions to this here surfing forum, but i do not agree with all of it, clearly, and you seem to dislike much of my contribution, and i would like you to accept it, but it doesn't really matter, though it does tarnish our potential as forum friends.
I don't mean to disrespect forum people, but i don't need to agree with forum posts.
It's whatever.
I'm sorry to you. It seems to happen alot.
Thought the gravyobrien video was really strange from my perspective. That doesn't make me wrong. Jayd agreed with me.
Go jump down his throat. You seem frustrated and angry. Not nice.

Facts are facts. Jayd understood my point 100%, antoine liked it.
You misunderstood 100%.
And we are all different. And that is good. That is my point, and i have a right to it unless i am banned. April 2008 and still going.
You kept us going when we needed it kanman. Don't take my 1960's mentality personally.
You have a gift for writing about individual waves ridden and surfs and i always thought i was the only one who likes to describe my waves, so we have pure stoke in common, and should maybe try to overlook our differences, if you see my point here.
I care that you contribute to stoke by writing about it. I don't really care about the unimportant things we don't. We both are dedicated to surfing. Feel the love.

 

That was one of the longest rants I’ve ever taken then time to read on here. I’m still confused. But I respect the way you ended it. Peace be with you brethren. We are merely surfers in the end.

And just to clarify, I do see both the positives and negatives of soft tops. It just hasn’t really had much of an effect on me, personally.

I’ll end this with positive vibes for your health. Hope you keep on keeping on.

Kanman

 

Thank you for spreadin' the love, er, stoke.
Got me thinkin'... If i were your lawyer i would win your case because you are right.
Me and my kind are a bunch of hypocrites because we all benefitted in one way or another from the marketing, or what we call the commercialization and/or exploitation of our pure 'sacred' sport.
My malibu heroes lance carson and dora had malibu crew wrecked by it. Gidget/frankie&annette brought hordes of kooks, it made them nuts, literally, but they made $$$ from it. Hypocrites. Stunt doubles in said movies, cash for surf magazine features, signature board models, etc..just like obrien gravy only these guys today aren't hypocrites like them. And my other two heroes are king complainers talk out of both sides of their mouths, too, greenough and wayne lynch, all the way to the bank.
My hypocrisy is the benefits from the income generated and put into surfing led to the advancements being mass-produced and therefore readily accessible to plain ole me.
Plus if i think it's kooky but they are ridfing waves and having fun that makes me the kook. 100%. Even if it looks really stupid.
How'd i do?
You win, kanman.
Case closed.

 

morning all, sideshore waist to chest inconsistencies out there on Folly. Stuck to my spot down the street. didn't have the most rides on the mid-length fisch but a handful will do the 1/2 hr sess. ceo in town, otherwise would be there for another 1/2 hr. couple right handers to keep that mini tube dream alive. wish i had a camera, would've shot a pic of a hawk chillin on lifeguard stand on way out. maybe something to think about after work, may chop out real bad too. ps: i'm against the pool noodles for grown men

 

Beachbreak, I’m not trying to “win” over you. I have no reason to nor a motive. Just observing what I see and documenting it along the way.

In other news, when the day comes that you can’t stand up surf, consider the surf mat. That is my one saving grace this summer since I’m unable to surf. What a blast.

Planning to take it out tonight in some 2-3 long period! Yew.

 

Yeah i am in the ocean every day.
And i remain optimistic that the day will never come that i cannot standup and surf.
Knowing all the while i could be wrong.
But i have hope.
And i was just documenting my thought fruit of our misunderstanding, that us 'purists' are a bunch of hypocrites, because we do all gain from money going into the sport in one way or another. Surf lessons and soft rentals keep my awesome surf shops owners able to survive right now. You spoke i listened.
Plus i would be a good lawyer.
I'm stoked if you're stoked, kanman.
Surf on.

 

Ocean temps up , offshores with a pulse in the ocean . A few large swirls chasing bait this am gave u that uncomfortable thought

 

morning fellas, stomach to chest hi with occ shoulder peaks. beautiful, clean, and a great start to the morning. all alone btwn 2nd n 3rd E on folly on the LB, all rights as lefts just weren't in the cards for me. sweet caroliner, nutting finer

 

So I'll just live vicariously through your lucky conditions! Surf here is relatively flat lucky to get a knee high wave maybe lucky thigh. I'm still stoked you're getting waves. Good on you dude

 

What the hell is everyone talking about in here? You guys are weird.

Anyway last night had some real fun and long rides in dirty jerz. chest high and glassssssssssssssssss

 

Delmarva this morning: my buddy riding a board i shaped for him.

 

A-framey conditions:

 

Headed south of Boston for some evening waves. Funner than I'd hoped but much colder than I'd expect in August. Weird. Fun little longboard waves. I thought it was crowded but there were 5-10 people all hanging out way outside, waiting for set waves that were never, ever coming. Fine by me.

 

One day I will be able to post on this thread again. But for now just some lengthy walks on the beach convincing myself I see a wave