I was riding 6'2"s and 6'6"s in my 20s and 30's. Now I'm riding 6'0s and 6'4's deep into my 50's. Thank you EPS!
Haters. My shortest board is 7'2 but at least I'm riding...not as good as yous guys but one day ...maybe
I never thought of it as a battle of age vs. board length, or any kind of test. I will paddle out on 7 and 9 foot boards plenty of times. But i'm 56 years old and mostly surfing on 5'2" 5'4" and 5'7" wide stubby squash tail/mini simmons shapes. I just enjoy them in warmer water and when the waves are under 4 foot and soft which seems to be a lot lately. Yeah riding boards now that are shorter than when i learned 35-40 years ago....which were like 5'8" twinnies/6'2" thrusters
All my surf friends are getting married and having kids. Most are too busy to shred anymore. Its easier to surf alone. Paddle out when you want, leave when you want, no schedule to force you to leave early. It has its moments. I like to ride a 6' board with the wide spot forward, under the chest. It makes the board more forgiving and easy to duck dive. One hurricane swell last year, I duck dived this huge set. 6 others got washed to the beach. Somehow made it under. Shit evening duck diving in big surf is fun haha.
My mini simmons is 5'4... that's as short as I've ever gotten, but that's a specialty shape. My next board up from that is a 6'0 fish. But I'm 6'1 and 190lbs.
I always rode boards that were a 3 to 6 inches taller than my height and when things went to where most were riding their height or a little shorter I never adjusted. I've never found a board my height or shorter that I really liked.
So what I have taken from this is that really my surf friends are my surfboards. I've had surf friends this whole time!!!
Pretty much. There are very few people I can tolerate surfing around. For the most part I'm wishing everyone would get out of the water and let me have it to myself.
Agreed. I've always thought of surfing as largely a solo pursuit, especially as I get older. It's fun to surf with a friend on occasion or bump into someone you know in the lineup, but mostly I like to focus solely on my surfing, and not get distracted by some inane banter with an acquaintance, save that for land.