who here has been surfing this week?

more fun lil grom sized waves today Delmarva. Had a blast on my 5'4" Chemistry "Experimental" this board is working its way into my all time favorites list. It just lets you destroy waist high waves. Bonus - onshore flow has kicked the upwelling's ass and water is back up above 75.

 

Was down for the Oakley Surf Shop Challenge and the Rip Curl Grom Search the past two days in Nags Head. Coldest water I've ever seen on the Outer Banks during the summer months. At times it had to be 58. Waves were tiny for both events.....barely ridable actually.

 

Well, there is no doubt you’re dedicated to giving your ‘grom’ a chance and I’m sure you’re enjoying every minute of it.

My nephew (Kitty Hawk) and one of my closest friend’s son (Wrightsville beach) are probably 2-3 years older than your son and they both rip. They have grind through all of these contest over the years and had great experiences.

Sometimes it’s a bust. Hopefully you don’t take it too seriously and enjoy it for what it is...

 

Finally caught up to me. Layed down last night and ribs, shoulders...pretty much every joint hurt. Paddled out this morning, anyway, thinking pains would diminish with exercise...wrong. Glassy, shoulder high sets, but inconsistent, overcast and kinda cold...nothing like the summer stoke of last couple days. Made myself catch a few, but felt like total shit. Fortunately, my last wave was a big one. Got a fat, bucket-spraying turn (on a soft-top) and jammed it all the way in to the shoreline. Onshores picked up soon after I went in and it was completely blown out within about 30 min.

On another bad note, I propt my board vertically against the car (rear-view mirror to hold it), the wind caught it just right and slammed it against an ultra-gnarly asphalt curb. Caused a ding on the rail bad enough I need to repair it...on a soft-top!

 

The 9 hour drive home today had me questioning my sanity. Good fun though. The Oakley Surf Shop Challenge is a top notch event. Just wish the waves had been better. Pretty much all of the top talent from Hatteras to New York was down there and I would have liked to have gotten to shoot that level of surfing in good waves.

 

Drove up to NH for some 1-2' choppy waves*. Kids had a good time though.





*Water Country water park wave pool. That's what it's come to.

 

yesterday in Maryland:

 

long session yesterday. stomach to chest and was loving it. cruised down to 9th E as current was pushing south down to pier. lotta rides to shore, switched up from LB to smaller fish and the crowds got busier. This morning it got a lil more sideshore, same current. maybe a sess after work after hi tide. been fun

 

Sounds like some fun PJ. Hoping wind lays down enough this eve...been out of control and junky....

 

You should still go. Out of control and junky is way better than flat.

 

Junk yesterday... still junk today, but a bit better with some lighter winds. Sold chest high swell, though... so there's that. A bit soft and bumpy, but a few pockets here and there... enough face to carve a few turns on the fish. I'll take it.

 

Are you guys getting waves from Dorian?

 

Schools back in on the west coast...WHOO-HOO...so exponentially less crowds & less kooks.

6 am this morning started out overcast, with an extremely low (negative) low tide, but zero wind. Waves were a dribbly 1/2 foot...barely even big enough to longboard. Stuck around because high tide was going to be 4.1 and I figured that amount of surge might push in something shortboard-able. Sure enough, it eventually got to waist-high and surprisingly fun (keep in mind I'm on a 6 ft soft top w/ 57 liters volume).

Standouts I pulled were a couple of decent backhand sprays (I'm goofy) on some relatively flat rights, a sweet frontside off-the-lip (first one on the soft top) & a couple of huge frontside turns on my two steepest waves of the day.

 

Nah... TD Erin.

 

Between high tide morning/evening and the wind and my work, I have been either missing the window or the window was jacked up...still feeling Irie from Mexico but would love to get wet!!!!

 

Long closeout shiite here. And everybody left for mstoke exceptin' a few stragglers and split personalities likeme.

 

Easier said than done. Leg don't work, i can't surf. Facts are facts. Had the femoris rectus removed, leg burnt with radiation, nerve pain blinding.

Small waves only. Very. Few and far between.
Count your blessings.