who here has been surfing this week?

Hope it gets better, beachbreak.

Few weeks ago, I stepped on a hidden curb, sideways, in a dark parking lot and my entire leg just caved...ankle, knee and hip, all sprained. Horrible pain. Area of meniscus resection was worst...felt like bone slamming bone and I thought I was toast. Nursed it for over a week and just hoped when I popped up on my board it wouldn't kill me. Fortunately, it didn't, but walking still hurts.

Anyway, today was the smallest day of the year. Gorgeous weather, but, even with the massive tide surge, it maxed out at only knee high and weak...longboarders only. Hope tomorrow is bigger...but I need a break anyhow.

 

Great session yesterday... solid south swell in the chest high range with a few bigger drops. Winds were cooperating, too... which has not been the case for some time. Beautiful day with great waves and a chill vibe in the water.

Surfed two spots... the first one was a little smaller, which was good. I needed to shake the rust off. Second spot was a bit bigger and much cleaner. Got a couple of real screamers on the fish... couple of coverups and a bunch of good hard turns. Been so long since I've had any quality waves... At one point I thought to myself, "holy sh!t... I can still surf!" Lol.

 

Surfed 3 days in a row for the first time since April. Insanely crowded. Yesterday's shit show had me contemplating why I even bother. Just a couple more days and a good chunk of the crowds leave as do the freaking lifeguards.

 

I saw two people run red lights at two different intersections a block apart yesterday. Fark'in idiots. Too busy taking selfies for their social media accounts... "Back at the SHORE!!!"

 

i can tell the waves already are shaping just right for a good wknd of surf here on Folly. I'm waxing up the boards just right, hoping to get a lotta shorty riding in and noodle arms by the end of it. Would love nothing more than halting traffic onto Folly in wake of the hurricane, but i think the chance of tstorms will scare a buncha ppl off

 

chunky surf yesterday today looks like a good tough paddle out brevard county fl

 

Even with the tide surge, waves today were barely shortboardable (unless you're small & light...I'm neither). Relatively mushy/flat faces, a "red tide" (fishy smelling, foamy, chocolate brown water), but not quite enough onshore wind to crumble the lip too bad. I basically nose-rode my 6 ft board all morning and lucked out on one big & steep enough to gouge one big, fat turn.

There was an ancient longboarder (about 70 yo + long biker beard looked like Merlin) dropping in on people like he owned the place. Dropped in on me and I rammed my board into his. Nothing was said afterward. Not looking forward to dealing this asshole in the future.

Both water & beach were surprisingly crowded. They're trying to escape the inland heat (upper 90's there), but the beach was practically like winter & water is about 60 F (far from trunkable, imo). To their credit, you never know when the sun is going pop out here (summer fog can even drift in & out a couple times a day)...but today was overcast, pretty foggy all day & relatively cold & humid. A lot of people were wearing jackets (w/ shorts). Some were desperately trying to pretend like it's SoCal summer, but looked fairly miserable.

Just 2 days ago, it was so nice, you could see shadows 6 ft deep.

 

Surfed cocoa beach pier sunday. tough paddle out but followed the rip just on the south side of the pier. I would say the bigger sets were 8ft. not long rides but so much energy in the waves, not going today as it looks like a washing machine.

 

Pshhh. Out thurrrr

 

Holden right now

 

The OCMD crew was out fighting sea level rise one bucket at a time last night. Or in the last of the guy in the last pic...maybe 2 buckets!

 

Post hurricane swell

 

Been surfing a bit here in Jersey at home. Nothing worth bragging about though.

Did get to spend about 10 days in Hawaii a few weeks back, though.

 

Not bragging... but I gotta say some great sets came through yesterday. Glassy, shoulder high peaks with some rouge head high waves every once in a while. Rode the fishy...

 

Yeah it looked fun. Had the kid with me so I had to pass, but it worked out... Jumped on the boat and headed over by the hook. Had a bunch of Albies on a popper... The boy was so stoked.

 

Dorian swell blew through RI with a quickness. By the time I got down there this afternoon, it was fun LB waves. Going to try to catch the remnants northward tomorrow morning.