who here has been surfing this week?

straight up waist hi mush in the waters this morning. starting to feel the effects of one of the invest 95's or whateverz out of Florida. hopefully it breaks better, but lotta surfers cramming spots around Folly. Hopeful the wind does shite out the full moon dusk sess later, but a solid reggae band is playing at a solid brewery tonight if it fails to be

 

My knee story is somewhere on this website, so I wont repeat it.

I have a hard shortboard, but haven't been able to ride it due to the lack of stability and my kneecap gets painful just rubbing against the hard fiberglass. Every once in a while, I try riding it again to see if things have changed for the better...but it's still not happening.

I'm just happy I can surf at all...took me 3 years to just get back to this level.

 

Headed up north of the city this morning - nice warm water, mostly clean waves, good time all around. Moved to a different break after a few hours and it was better. Too much sun, arms spend, go Pats. Cool seeing a lot of little fish, eels, etc... through the clear water. Not quite Florida with spinner sharks jumping around, etc.. but still neat.

 

Semi clean conditions today with a waist to chest high east swell coming in. Best things was I had a peak to myself for a couple hours. Two dudes to the north of me were the only other guys in sight, and they turned out to be long-time locals my age or older. Good guys... fun waves... warm water... a pod of dolphins... sunny skies. I'll take it.

 

Went to Spanish house today had a successful go of it. Sat by myself for 2 hours. Saw 2 spinner sharks and 4 dolphin. Pretty active viewing for the conditions. Stopped at the localtex Mex for some tacos then refereed 2 youth soccer games. Hit the grocery store for some vitals on the way home and walked the dog. Pretty good day for me.

 

Super fun today. Shot some. Surfed some. Airshow going on overhead. My 14 year old was putting on his own airshow.

 

both air shots are remarkable, super stoked for you!

 

Nothing epic in the past weeks but man, plenty of rideable surf. Good run and Humberto appears to want to deliver a little sumtin!!

It almost seemed like you could see some Humberto mixing in with this NE goodness this afternoon.

 

put on 4 sess day on Saturday. Didn't bode well the next couple days, but i'm not gonna kill myself on some overhead surf after that kinda score. that saturday started with a LB then went down to a shorty. scooping to the right seemed to work well and doubled up. had some fun, will wait on lo tide if they keep churning like they are today

 

3 days of good surf! Today was firing for FB. Overhead freight trains for 3 hours then work. Arms tired but stoke is strong!

 

Been chasing Humberto all week up and down the Outer Banks. Terrible internet where we've posted up. Couple of samples from the roughly 600 shots I've taken the past couple of days:

 

This was the largest wave I saw ridden today.




Young Carl Burger from Florida on a solid one.

 

Insane skill...photos and surfing

 

Epic end to summer , dredging rights , hard offshores , and 200 of my best friends !

 

Photog Tim Torcia

 

Yes PJ ,fyi the beach replenishment has wiped out most of our east swell breaks .The surf crowd focuses on the few remaining spots creating a Malibu type scene.