Headed out south of the city this afternoon some decent waves to start but it got pretty choppy as the day went on. The cleaner Humberto swell had already moved north but got a few fun ones. Morning would have been better but family stuff was the priority. The Point Judith cam has just shown So Cal density when I've checked over the past two days. Great spot but so, so many people. I assume the Wall up in Hampton was like as well.
Liking the posts. Had 2nd helping myself today. Got home from the 1st surf, ate, and mowed. Packed up the family for funday on the beach. Caught a bunch on the fish. The boy got his share. And a straight up pummeling on the boogie. Tide pools were full of kids paddling their parents boards around and standing up. My little girl would paddle and stand up parallel, then wiggle the board across the pond. Good times with good folks. Back home for a steak listening to 70's classics and drinking wine. Turned out to be a nice day. Got a ding to fix before the next round. Keep them stories flowing dudes.
Reasons it was crowded. Almost paddled out there yesterday but glad I took a look at another spot, only a handful out and it was a lot of fun. Got a solid wall to carve as soon as I got to the lineup, my first wave in over a month. Got my fill after a few hours, shoulders aching this morning. Surfing has taken a backseat to life lately, spent a chunk of the summer taking care of my pops and back to chasing the all mighty dollar to stay on top of bills. Did have a great day with my k
I'd been out both in MA and RI two weeks ago and it was wetsuit temps everywhere. This weekend I was dying in my 2.5m wetsuite in MA - weird upwelling of warm water or gulf stream water blown in by Humbertor or something but it was tough. Being too hot is worse than cold when surfing, at least for an hour or two.
I've had on a full suit in the mornings. It's been chilly and dry here. Perfect fall weather. Trunks @ midday when the sun is high and a shorty in the evening as it starts to cool off again. I think the water temp here has been constant and warm. It's been the air temps for me.
jerry providing. went out yesterday evening for a quick session while the fam's in town. took out the 6'9 fisch n tho textured, size was credible at waist to chest. drift south until it stopped at 13th. that's because it shifted onshore, as was the case this morning, which was clean and waist to chest hi. had some funyuns that i haven't been able to close out, but plenty of wipeouts and smooth lines. it's been good
What's Happening? Surfs up! This story begins with that bad ding that's not fixed. Figured I got a whole stack of boards I never ride. Mostly because I think I can't anymore and I'll just have a bad surf. Not having another regular short board made it easier to give one a go. It was either that or surf the fish. So today I surfed windy overhead death bombs on a 6'2"x 18 3/4 x 2 1/4 double wing swallow tailed thruster from way back in the day. Don't know the volume but it can't be a lot. Mid 20's? Been surfing 32 to 34. I was up to my armpits when sitting on it. Paddled OK. Duck dived great. Had to be deep in it to go. Ate it a couple of times because it felt squirrely. Had a couple of rights and lefts that were OK. It was a strong swell so once up and going the board went. The narrowness of it made it turn on a dime. I forgot what it was like to lay those channels into one. The story ends with a bomb left with a steep drop with my feet placed just right. It all clicked and for few seconds I was 25 year old PJ. A good bottom turn and timed the top turn just right. Felt vertical. Came down and got to run the wall to end it with a floater on my feet. Gotta couple of "good one"s from the line up. Sometimes it is just one wave that makes a good surf. Tired out not to long after. Couldn't paddle that thing against the drift. Caught one in and had a beer on the beach. Miller Lite never tasted so good. Going to have to surf these boards more often. Got a 6'6"x 18 1/4"x 2 1/4 rounded pin that might have a couple of waves left in it. Hope you guys are getting it. I'm going tomorrow.
Does anyone know who was taking photos on the south side of the pipe on the S.L/Sea Girt border on the morning of 9/20/19? Mr. Ben Gravy was on the north side at the time but this fella was shooting people on the south side.