who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    Today I stuffed myself at the surf trough, then I stuffed myself some more.
     
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  2. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    477
    Jul 5, 2014
    Headed out south of the city this afternoon some decent waves to start but it got pretty choppy as the day went on. The cleaner Humberto swell had already moved north but got a few fun ones. Morning would have been better but family stuff was the priority.

    The Point Judith cam has just shown So Cal density when I've checked over the past two days. Great spot but so, so many people. I assume the Wall up in Hampton was like as well.
     

  3. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    I don't even know etc that meens
     
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  4. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Same here dude.
     
  5. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Liking the posts.

    Had 2nd helping myself today. Got home from the 1st surf, ate, and mowed. Packed up the family for funday on the beach. Caught a bunch on the fish. The boy got his share. And a straight up pummeling on the boogie. Tide pools were full of kids paddling their parents boards around and standing up. My little girl would paddle and stand up parallel, then wiggle the board across the pond. Good times with good folks. Back home for a steak listening to 70's classics and drinking wine.
    Turned out to be a nice day.

    Got a ding to fix before the next round.
    Keep them stories flowing dudes.
     
  6. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Didn't know Point J had a surf cam, that sucks, no doubt one of the
     
  7. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Reasons it was crowded. Almost paddled out there yesterday but glad I took a look at another spot, only a handful out and it was a lot of fun. Got a solid wall to carve as soon as I got to the lineup, my first wave in over a month. Got my fill after a few hours, shoulders aching this morning.
    Surfing has taken a backseat to life lately, spent a chunk of the summer taking care of my pops and back to chasing the all mighty dollar to stay on top of bills.
    Did have a great day with my k
     
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  8. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    833
    Dec 25, 2015
    Kid blue crabbing, they are running thick, good eats
     
  9. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    477
    Jul 5, 2014
    I'd been out both in MA and RI two weeks ago and it was wetsuit temps everywhere. This weekend I was dying in my 2.5m wetsuite in MA - weird upwelling of warm water or gulf stream water blown in by Humbertor or something but it was tough. Being too hot is worse than cold when surfing, at least for an hour or two.
     
  10. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I've had on a full suit in the mornings. It's been chilly and dry here. Perfect fall weather. Trunks @ midday when the sun is high and a shorty in the evening as it starts to cool off again.
    I think the water temp here has been constant and warm. It's been the air temps for me.
     
  12. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Still in surf trunks. 2mm top last week in the AM when the air was nippy!!!
     
  13. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Trunks or shortie, depending on air temp. Water's still a balmy 70ish.
     
  14. curl

    curl Well-Known Member

    432
    Apr 30, 2013
    Surfs coming up LB , new push from the se , winds up too .
     
  15. NNYNJ

    NNYNJ Well-Known Member

    928
    Dec 22, 2017
    Fished Sunday AM a couple of miles off MB... Water didn't get below 72
     
  16. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    jerry providing. went out yesterday evening for a quick session while the fam's in town. took out the 6'9 fisch n tho textured, size was credible at waist to chest. drift south until it stopped at 13th. that's because it shifted onshore, as was the case this morning, which was clean and waist to chest hi. had some funyuns that i haven't been able to close out, but plenty of wipeouts and smooth lines. it's been good
     
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  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's Happening? Surfs up!
    This story begins with that bad ding that's not fixed. Figured I got a whole stack of boards I never ride. Mostly because I think I can't anymore and I'll just have a bad surf. Not having another regular short board made it easier to give one a go. It was either that or surf the fish. So today I surfed windy overhead death bombs on a 6'2"x 18 3/4 x 2 1/4 double wing swallow tailed thruster from way back in the day. Don't know the volume but it can't be a lot. Mid 20's? Been surfing 32 to 34. I was up to my armpits when sitting on it. Paddled OK. Duck dived great. Had to be deep in it to go. Ate it a couple of times because it felt squirrely. Had a couple of rights and lefts that were OK. It was a strong swell so once up and going the board went. The narrowness of it made it turn on a dime. I forgot what it was like to lay those channels into one.
    The story ends with a bomb left with a steep drop with my feet placed just right. It all clicked and for few seconds I was 25 year old PJ. A good bottom turn and timed the top turn just right. Felt vertical. Came down and got to run the wall to end it with a floater on my feet. Gotta couple of "good one"s from the line up. Sometimes it is just one wave that makes a good surf. Tired out not to long after. Couldn't paddle that thing against the drift.
    Caught one in and had a beer on the beach. Miller Lite never tasted so good.

    Going to have to surf these boards more often. Got a 6'6"x 18 1/4"x 2 1/4 rounded pin that might have a couple of waves left in it.

    Hope you guys are getting it. I'm going tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
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  18. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Pretty fun last night before dark right at the end of my street.
     
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  19. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
  20. Krappenschitz

    Krappenschitz Well-Known Member

    70
    Mar 11, 2010
    Does anyone know who was taking photos on the south side of the pipe on the S.L/Sea Girt border on the morning of 9/20/19? Mr. Ben Gravy was on the north side at the time but this fella was shooting people on the south side.