who here has been surfing this week?

Delmarva yesterday. This latest swell from Jerry - long period but steep south angle - was solid (head high to a bit overhead) at some spots and small (waist high) at others really close by. Its interesting how much the deep water energy is effected by bottom contours. Shot this around 3 p.m. paddled out and sea breeze came up and turn up the texture quite a bit.

 

removed

 

What camera body are you shooting with?

 

CJ , photog was Chadwick Joseph , shooting my 25 yr old , I posted those for the info . Figured that would interest you ,and I thought it was a Cannon. Although I was bs ing with him I wanted to show his stain which was not on these, lol .

 

Heres one ,

 

Damn, you guys are getting some big, clean barrels. It never gets that shapely in my area (but we have ridable surf every day of the year & you never have to worry about a wetsuit...because it a 4/3 mm year round).

Anyway, paddled out today in some waist-high at my crummy local spot...but the sun was out and no wind. Took a while to get up the nerve to use my torn shoulder, which I've been resting for over 2 weeks.

Putting the wetsuit on was the hardest part (& taking it off). My first couple waves were sucky testers. Once I realized my shoulder was going to hold up, I locked into a long speeder that reeled all the way to shore. No turns, but I'll take it.

Even without duck-diving, depending on my movements, shoulder did start pinching and hurting. Still caught a couple more on which I was able to generate speed and even got a nice floater on (I usually hate floaters, but...I'll take it).

Got hot as hell later in the day...very rare here.

 

Its definitely a Canon. I can tell by the CR2 file type. Was just curious what camera body.

 

Jeebus crypes guys! Totally stoked and appreciate all the stories and photos.
I took a few days of mid week and just surfed up and down fl east coast. Chasing a swell and sleeping on the beach without interruption from the authorities!
I really enjoyed myself. Not much to show but hers a few pics of the trip.

 

Sun was out when I woke up & waves were waist-high, again. Just as I stepped in the water, this little bitch wave slammed into my ribs and felt like someone punched me. As I layed down on my board, I knew that shit had done something to my rib cartilage. Laying on the board hurt really bad...enough that I didn't even think about my shoulder.

Fortunately, the pain was just on the edge of taking me out and I was able to surf. For about an hour, my performance was what you'd expect from an old dude with a fucked up knee, a torn shoulder & seperated rib...not good. Then, the tide filled in too much and swamped the swell, so I floated & nose-rode for about another hour.

As the tide started dropping out, shape started getting good...much better than on the incoming tide. Outside was closing out, but these nice left nugs started popping up on the inside. My rib stilled killed when laying, but all my other pain was gone. 3 high school dudes paddled out on thier carbon-stripped toothpicks and were destroying sections most wouldn't even see. One guy was pulling 360 airs and making every one! They were so inspiring, my surfing immediately improved. I started catching waves I wouldn't have earlier...and making them. Granted, most of mine were basically pumping fast as hell down the line, but my biggest wave had a giant turn right at the start. My other standout had a blasting frontside off-the-lip at the end (very hard to make on a soft top...at least for me). I was pretty stoked when I came in.

 

Was pretty beat from yesterday, so took my time this morning. Sun was out, shoulder to head-high sets & glassy. Paddled out on the swampy high tide just to warm-up for the outgoing tide.

I finally realized the spot I've been frequenting only works on an outgoing tide. While the outside is mostly closing out, medium size nugs on the inside form somewhat of a peak and "shlurp" out into a little bowl-shaped take off zone. I don't know where (or if) this happens anywhere else on our local beach.

Rib is still really bad (can feel it shifting/clicking as I paddle) & shoulder aint great, either, but caught as many as possible...before the onshores crumbled it too much. Had one exceptional bigger one that I pumped a surprising amount of speed on and absolutely annihilated the lip. Felt even better when a couple people commented paddling back out. Not east coast hurricane perfection, but really good day for me.
(keeps posting upside down...no clue)

 

looks fun. Which county are you in?

 

China?

 

(this post is a day late due to lack of internet connection)

Definitely surfed-out and injuries were nagging, but I decided to try squeezing one more day in...really bad idea.

It was overcast, but sets were overhead & glassy. Tide was super high, so I paddled out farther up the beach, where I had seen some killer left barrels roll through.

Rib was hurting, so I missed the first couple of good lefts. First wave I caught was actually a nice big right...but about 5 guys were lounging around the impact zone on wavestorms, so had to kick out right after takeoff.

Current was strong and drifted me into a pack of kollege kooks who were paddling into anything & everything...and either going straight or the wrong way. One dropped in on me twice. The last wave was overhead & meaty, so I got annihilated trying not to collide. When I surfaced, the dork's hardboard was right by my head...he was clueless. They also kept yelling nonsense really loud at each other...extremely annoying & distracting.

By this time, the kook frustration, the effect of the last 3 days surfing and my injuries had me completely exhausted. Still managed to scratch into a couple left bombs to myself, but onshores had already taken their toll, so they were basically giant drop-ins/closeouts. After that, was so tired, I couldn't even pop-up.

Yesterday was one of my best sessions of the year and today was the worst.

(pic is of the inside...I don't have the attention span to wait for a set)

 

karen n lorenzo pulling in around these parts of Carolina. thi to waist sideshore semi chop. short 20 min or so sess before work. had a a few lines on the LB. def a lil drift south. lookign for a clean up tomorrow DP. tides aren't in this working man's favor for the rest of the week, so i'm praying for a longer stronger morning

 

Where in centro Cali is that ?

 

The abandonneur getting one this afternoon on Delmarva. Hey! You dont have no time for surfing, the forecast ain't fixed!