I know exactly what you mean. I also remind myself how fortunate I am to be in the water doing what I’m doing, as often as I do it, and remind myself that I use to dream about this, and worked half my life trying to get here, and now I’m here, living my dream. Thank you Jesus.
This isn't a superstition. But i do this almost every sesh. Even if i pee before leaving the house, i always have to pee before getting in the water. So i stand at the waters edge in my suit, and pee. Before getting in
Hahaha! No lie I Do the same thing but just with less thought beyond I gotta get the sand off right away cause yeah, it’s on my bort and it needs to be not on my bort RIGHT NOW.
Me too. And this superstition of mine has nothing to do with surfing but if a cat crosses my path, i'll stop, turn around, and go another way. Walking, biking, driving. It doesn't matter. Yeah I'm weird.
I say to myself I’m fortunate to be able to enter the ocean & surf. I then say today I’ll probably suck ass surfing, again, but just have fun, be good to others & go for everything. The suck ass part is so when that actually does happen I’m not disappointed.
No superstitions. Im not that spiritual any more. Sometimes I pretend the seagulls are laughing at me to motivate myself. Again, not a superstition per se but i piss my pants on the beach or in the road this way i have to surf and cant go home.
Put board and gear down walk about knee depth into ocean and survey the waves left and right with arms crossed or on hips sunglasses also besides looking like you know what your doing you also are testing the anger level of the ocean and making an agreeable pact
I don't think it is superstitious, but I always get on my board frontside. (That is, I swing my back foot up on the board first.