who here has been surfing this week?

Is this recent? Looks friggin cold.

 

Finally got some surf on my island the last couple days. Been almost a month since I paddled out last. Limited daylight and other doings kept me dry but there wasn't much swell either. This is gonna be a long one.
The nor'easter started to show Sunday here. Nor'easter surf is rugged dude. It comes in large, shifty and fast with a ton of juice behind it. It comes with a cold wind that goes right through you. Was able to get on it Sunday morning. It was about head high and still pretty raw. I think it was 30 degrees out. Thicker rubber and boots and put on some gloves too. With the thicker rubber and a month of not surfing I chose a board that doesn't need as much rider input to make waves, a 70's styled bonzer with heavy glass. Got a few good waves but had trouble being in just the right spot at take off. The good spot was just always a little deeper than I could or want to get into. A couple I was in the right spot but just couldn't get myself to go over the ledge. Felt the drops were too fast and steep for me to make. I only had the morning but I stopped over to see what the afternoon looked like on the way to dinner at Grandma's. It was perfect head high cold glassy barrels. Didn't feel too bad about it as it was only get better the next day.

Yesterday morning was a cold rainy day. A couple of feet overhead and clean. I didn't go at dawn. It was cold, The wind was a little squirrely, and the tide was dead low. I wanted a little more tide to make the drops a little easier. An easy paddle out surprised the heck out me but the drift and the shifty peaks left me without a wave for about a half mile. Right where the beach shifts alittle in direction I got a little one. Then I got a bomb with a short ride which put me right into the impact zone for three right on the head. That beating put me into a good space in my head. I got back out and got into it good. Went deep on one and had a speed run. The bonzer was hitting that fifth gear. Went across a whole beach into a rock pile. Was at that point where you have to make a decision to head in to avoid the rocks or try to make it around. Knew if I went in I might of called it and walked back so I went for it. Made it back out but by a pretty sketchy margin and found a perfect bomber right at the tip of the rock pile. I just turned and hucked myself over the ledge. Just made it at the bottom in front of the rocks and cranked a turn and it was all opened up. Hooted myself up the whole way. My heart was in my throat and I was just laughing my ass off when I got back out.

Caught another and saw I was about two miles away from my car. Headed in for the long cold walk back. Halfway back and right about where I started to get waves, I ran into a couple of bros about to head out. So I went out again for a few more. Thankfully another easy paddle out. My confidence was up and I got a few more really good waves but man was I zapped. Got a little runner that I could do some turns on and rode it all the wave to the beach. A long walk back and a rough time getting out of the thick rubber. I'd surfed about 5 hours. Didn't catch a ton of waves but the ones I got were great. I slept good last night. I gotta say I'm ready for an easy surf. Like a long board day with the sun out would be nice.

Get yours guys, post up when you do.