who here has been surfing this week?

Solid overhead swell and offshore yesterday... but super racy and dredging at my local. Aside from a few shoulder hoppers, no good rides. In fact... I'm actually feeling pretty beat up today.

 

That’s a great shot! Care to share any info on it... where about is it??

 

Thanks for sharing- I ended up missing Sunday, I was bummed since it was so warm out and I love surfing hard offshores - but my beach looked the same as you described so I’m not so bummed lol puts the mind at ease....

 

Yea... There were some gems out there for sure. I just didn't luck into any good ones. Probably trying too hard... if you know what I mean. Taking off too deep... going on ones I shouldn't have... I should have just hung on the edge and been satisfied with that.

 

Guessing that is somewhere in North Jersey? We had waves in my town but nothing even remotely like that. Head high and the shape wasn't great.

 

went out on DP this morning by the pier. drifted south of the pier, small drift but enough for me to care less since it was a brief sess. Took out the LB and had a handful that lined up well on stomach to chest hi's. lil texture, but still this swell is pumping. I've been amazed that it's lasted this long, but i'm gonna try to go after it if i can. that's precisely what my 20 min sess was - get after it

 

Yes CJ , Monmouth cty , possible rerun for Sunday fyi

 

Waist high and offshore in Carlsbad this morning. Still no booties.

 

Chest to head high with hard offshores this morning. 45 degrees and mostly sunny. Not bad...

 

Just got home from a frustrating two hour session. Head high and hard offshore. Grabbed the wrong board when I left the house. Super crowded and its January.

 

Just had some super fun chest high waves! It’s not often that I have a chance to surf in the afternoon during winter- thankful it was a blessing with the slightly warmer air temps. Long rides, first wave got covered up. But it was very hard offshore winds, which I love but kind of a pain -but the nice south swell was peeling good. Had the 10’4 out since I thought it was gonna get deep and mushy, but it didn’t. Lots of long nose rides

 

What's happening everyone! Looks like missed you guys are getting your share and breathing those cold Northern Winters. We've had a pretty good run of swell here in Central Florida. I do believe the water temp is probably 75 ish and today's airtemp was probably 83 or 84 so it would be no surprise if I told you I didn't wear a wetsuit ;-) offshore the semi Southwinds but considering yesterday we had 25 mile an hour winds all day it was but I will call semi-clean and probably solid chest High the whole day. Grabbed a bite to eat at the local Tex-Mex on the way home and enjoyed some good Tunes

 

Lol oh man I forget what it’s like to surf without a wetsuite!

 

I surfed New Years Day: First time since August. There were six of my crew. The conditions were poor: Freezing cold outside, waves were a warm 76 though. The water was really sharkey, waves were 1 to 3, all choppe, up, hard to see a lineup.

So, it was pretty much my crew, a local photographer, and our board shaper. We brought drinks and food to commemorate the new year together. And some heavy shit most seniors seem to have. Got some great photos!

The idea blew up quickly at 4 pm the evening before: impossible for this broken down surfer. It takes 3 hours to prepare the meds situations, the emergency supplies, rearrange the surfmobile, pack the Beach supplies. We were late due to medical, but by 8:30 the crew rolled me down.

We all were so stoked to be together again. For many of us, surfing is the point,but the socializing is just as important on the waves, on the beach, texting after the seshes.

I felt brave paddling out, and decided to ride on belly. Only a couple of blips, and it was mostly big smiles all around. I have kept in quasi shape with a half mile pool swim every morning. That showed: The cardiovascular was good, arm strength wasn’t too far off.

I am not done surfing.

I have started to rearrange the boardsin the garage a little bit, and think about how to make this broken down surfer body get out to the water again.

So sad that the choices beaches are inaccessible to me: but, that’s just life. You get the waves you get.

Hoping to make it to Allen’s paddle out, hoping even sooner....

At the end of the sesh, I picked up my favorite shell to bring home. This is a ritual I have done since I began surfing 8 years ago. They live together in a big glass dish in the home. I picked up a larger one, because of the courage it took to Just Do IT, and Betty would go....and she did.

 

Betty... you're the greatest!

 

Carson......OG sweller that walks softly! I think he's the only guys I've seen that's been on here longer than I have!

 

wheneva miami gets swell i find myself very jelly. no doubt all the vids of the caribbean swell making me fidgety. neoprene is the worse