Been logging it everyday for the past week, cleanish mornings, chest high, waters getting warmer, never have I been more thankful to be a surfer and live on the beach. Right now my soundtrack is Santa Monica , Everclear, with all the hysteria its nice to have somewhere to escape too.
So good today... Glassy head high drops on the biggest set waves. A little undergunned on the fish, but I didn't care. Water quality was excellent. No wind. Little barrels every once in a while. super fun... and had it to myself for the first hour and a half, too.
RI was fun today. The 'main' break was packed like any weekend but I went a bit up the beach and enjoyed some social distancing, sun and waves. I suspect any day now we'll be under house arrest so seems like a chance worth taking. No post surf coffee or burrito - just had a snack in my car and headed home. Stay well everybody.
Went across the bridge today with my kid, hung out at 2nd and Purgatory chasm. Pretty busy but it looked like a lot of fun today.
The 2nd parking lot was as full as any spring weekend, right? Still miles better than going to a restaurant or something but spread out people.
As busy as I've seen it. I actually haven't surfed there in a couple of years. 1st was nearly empty in comparison.
thi to waist at the Washout. didn't look good off the start as only a few marginally sized ones came thru. luckily, wave machine churned up on walk out. Had a solid handful for the short sess into work. no coffee needed, but i'll make some hot choco
Really good reading all the stories of everyone getting there surf on! I too have been getting my fair share while not as good as some of you guys to the north but I'm not complaining. It's been steady waist to chest Queen in the morning with some offshore's then wins which is right around and comes from the East and just crush is it. Been mostly surfing between Jetty Park by Port Canaveral and Satellite Beach. Light crowds but the dedicated Surfers are making their way out and having lots of fun
Finally got back in the water today after about two weeks of shite waves and poo flavored rain runoff. Nice waist to chestish waves with light offshores. Got a couple good ones in while staying at LEAST 6 feet away from all the other bros and does.
Got some lucky surf last night. Took the log out it was maybe Nehi but super clean lines and breaking all the way to the pier. Just that really small peeling wave to the left handwriting it into the sunset was really cool for me. It's still kind of eerie looking at the four or five Cruise Line ships that are docked out in the ocean or anchored just sitting there for the past week. I'll try to take some pictures tonight
quick shot of swell down here. took out the 6'9 loehr and the newbie Alchemist. Cruised to the washout with a bud for stomach to chest hi. first thing i could tell is that it needed a bit more volume for my ever growing body. Second, those future fins didn't stick as well, kinda amateurish, but i thought they were locked in as a twin but they fell right into mother ocean in the first 15 minutes. took out the loehr, 4/3 on but no booties or gloves for a 2 hr sess. Had plenty of rides, mostly rights, and was off a small crowd (we've got restricted beach access). Had a solid party wave and one legged rides, doing all kinds of stupid stuff. My buddy said that was easily his best session for 3 months - it's been that bad down here on Folly. Another quick shot next week, gotta make best of a situation
I feel like we have really been lucky to surf this last week or so. Being in the water and riding waves really helps to drown out the craziness. That being said, I do not feel like this is a time to be out exploring new breaks, traveling in packs, and hanging out for post-surf beers, etc. Don't bring friends to a spot you just now had time to discover, especially if your Mom is driving you there. Do not overcrowd beaches, parking lots or waves- the more this happens up here in NE the likelier they are to restrict access. Once that happens, we are all going to without our favorite outlet. Stay healthy out there.