Tweaked my neck the other day so it was back behind the camera again this morning. The South Jersey kids were ripping.
went out south of the city again. Surfing now dictated by parking spots than anything else but it worked out. Saw a SUPer out in board shorts and booties and later one with a suite and no booties. Animals. Surf was fun but weak. You had to pay attention or the waves just faded away under foot.
How's it going everyone. Had a really good weekend down here in Cocoa Beach although Saturday was maybe only waist-high but provided endless waves and lots of smiles from everyone. Sunday it dropped off and maybe thigh-high but a great day for the longboard. I spend a lot of the time cross stepping and I finally figured out what side of the board step onto first. So instead of just running up to the nose took my time got that footwork down. How to short run in Sunday morning with a policeman who thought he was going to educate me on illegal parking. I can be quite a sarcastic smart ass and I thought the opportunity was Prime re-gift his educational purpose By informing him we were on private property so you can imagine how the rest of that discussion went lol. Anyway the water's warm skies are clear the winds are offshore I hope you guys are getting yours.
Yea clean on Saturday up here in Folly Beach as well. I let buddy's fam dictate where we'd go that morning so we went to 6th E. Nobody out there but wasn't breaking great either. Lotta lulls going into hi tide. Fixed the hog molly n also ride the ol reliable NSP, bout waist hi. Things went sideshore Sunday morning n I knew wind was supposed to get on it. I did the selfish thang n didn't alert anybody, drove to washout n got on some chest hi rides. Got a couple sessions in that morning. Also Friday evening was shoulder hi n awesome. Next storm cell surge or whatevz coming Wednesday, ride a bout it Thursday I hope
Got in a nice session in Oceanside this morning. Had to find street parking as all the public lots are still roped off. Waist to shoulder. A little more aggressive wave than I am used to. Still fun and really happy to be back in the water.
A few years ago my friend and I were out there and he scored a session in well overhead pumping surf....long rights off the huge inlet jetty...that he still raves about. It was a work trip for me and i missed the best of it...although we did score practically empty clean 3-4 foot lower trestles right before dark on that trip which was pretty magic.
One positive I take from this virus is that it’s allowed me to get in the water more often, due to no work. I’m surfing any and every day that I possibly can. The cool Spring and water temps are a bit annoying, but I’ve gotten myself into my best surfing shape of the last several years. Not nearly my peak from about 2010-2011, but closer than any other point since. Certainly not even close to my early 00’s best, either, but I remember that I am 50 years old in less than a year. As nasty and unseasonably cold as April has been here, one thing to be thankful for is that the beaches aren’t closed in Jersey, since no one is really getting on them right now. It beats being in Florida or California where beaches have been closed. Was looking to take a trip to Oahu (already went for 2 weeks in January) right when shit went bad, but was afraid I wouldn’t have been able to get back here with all the shutdowns. I’ll be doing just that whenever things return to close to halfway normal.
Another rain surge got it pumping yesterday. Started going off around 10 but I waited for some buds to go round noon. It was pretty chopster n was only able to get one ride w a couple cutbacks before one guy had to go back to "work". Went out that evening towards lo tide, this time w a lb. Still choppy but was able to get several more rides, nice ones down the line. A lil more content
Paddled out at Moonlight this morning. Waist to head high. We very shallow, breaking top to bottom. Got a couple, but not my best performance. Outclassed by the ocean, as usual.
A sample of forbidden waves from this afternoon. Still dealing with a dinged up neck so behind the camera again.
It was good... it was crowded. I actually passed on this one and got the boat in the water. Which is good.
This shot says it all about the surf at my local yesterday. My son getting snowballed by a clueless donkey from out of town on what would have been a good racetrack. Way too much of that stuff going on and way too many unfamiliar faces and adult learners in the water.
ha. I went out at moonlight too around 730 On Friday. Drift was annoying and the waves were fast and dumpy, struggle just to get a closeout. I’ve been surfing in front of my place in Mb for the past 7 days. It’s been fun down here. All the lots are closed so it’s been really nice only surfing with my neighbors.
Yep. Such a kook. And right on the line my son needed to get to for maximum down the line speed. My son reads it right and puts himself in place for an effortless takeoff and this moron paddles like a madman trying to glide in on the shoulder and still can't get in but manages to F-up the wave. Way too much of this crap going on these days here. I get pissed off even watching when there's a bunch of this sheit going on. Kills my motivation to surf. Anyway.......a shot from later in the session.
Great to hear all of you getting your share.. Sorry to hear about all the kookery going on up north but I feel ya.. Its happening here also. I have had 5 days of surfing starting out epic on day 1 with clean hh waves and off shores to merely breaking thigh high on shores today. Anyway its weird to see so many strange faces in the water but for the most part everyone's having fun.
Your picture so perfectly illustrates why its so annoying when people paddle out on the shoulder and then back off at the last minute and act like they did the right thing because they eventually pulled back. Your son has obviously already put on the brakes, and is preparing to avoid a collision, the snowball will destroy the section (hence the wave), your son is already on his feet meaning he already had established priority and was getting to his feet as this guy was paddling. Here's my shot of the same shit happening in Delaware a few weeks ago.