who here has been surfing this week?

I wonder how much thos is on the kooks dropping in and how much is on us for not regulating thos carp right away?

I've been called an a hole for being assertive and paddling over to people just like those in your pic to let them know they don't belong there. Just my thoughts and opinion.

 

Isn't that what they are? Lol

 

My son is a 15 year old stoked out kid. He's out there having fun and if anything isn't as assertive in the lineup as he should be. When I was his age in the 80s I know that stuff would not have been tolerated at the peak. At his age I was one of the kooks who never could have gotten a wave at the peak.

 

Yep. He's stood up tall in frustration where he would normally be coiled up for a burst of speed. The wave went to waste because of the adult learner. It was low tide and breaking fast and accelerating off of that first section was the key to making waves. He ended up kicking out of a good one as it raced away.

 

Back to my comfort zone at the Powerplant. Chest high, light offshore, but a little deep. Got quite a few good ones to keep me coming back for more.

 

Thi hi thrillers here on folly. Too hungover for morning session, but got to it later n managed some lines n some crouching. Water still on the brink of rashie vs wetsuit. Longest in between in years

 

https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/5b451d5f-53d7-474b-af29-d5e5b2cd73b9

 

Another super nice session. Chest high and semi-glassy. My stoke reserves are topped back off.

 

are you talking San o? Is it open to cars againe?

 

Nah. The Powerplant in Carlsbad. I stick close to home.

Today was another repeat of yesterday. Waist to chest+ and offshore. Super fun as the tide filled in.

 

Last Wednesday I surfed perfectly formed stomach-chest clean waves for an hour and a half with a total of 4 other people. Today I surfed the same spot where it was chest-head with about 10 other people total. I didn't know most of them yet we were shouting each other into waves, whistling after good rides.

These past few posts about kooks and adult learners remind me of why I stopped going on surfing forums. Every single year for the past 31 that I've been surfing I've heard nonstop about the "crowds lately are worse then ever before" "surf camps/lessons ruin surfing" and and how "there's no respect and their used to be regulators" blah fuckin blah. Get a fuckin life. I live in the most densely populated ocean-facing county in the most densely populated state in the country. I surf at least 100 days a year and maybe once every 2 or 3 years some idiot fucks up my session. To all you kids and beginners out there reading these forums, don't pay any attention to these whiners. They take the worst one-off incidents and blow them up because they like the online drama. Thats about it. Focker out!

 

Gotcha. Warm water plant
It was really good this Am. Got smj with a small crowd from 530-730 then met a friend at moonlight and walked to swamis from 9-12 with only like 8 people. Really good day of surfing before the tide/wind got on it. Love being non essential haha

I’m beat!

 

Rents used to live in Clairemont, I was surfing OB towards the jetty and was slowing drifting towards the pier. Huge set comes in from the outside and destroys me. Longest hold down I have ever had. My uncle used to live up I Oceanside, I surfed there a couple times a few blocks south of the pier. If I remember correctly, there were huge rocks that would stick out of the water towards low tide. Am I thinking the right place?

 

I was a several blocks north of the Pier. I think the spot you are talking about is called Boulders or something like that.

 

It’s been a while.

 

I get where you are coming from but I strongly disagree. You can't just make this a general statement. There are spots that are not beginner spots. There are spots that are not adult learner spots. Some spots have 1 peak. Personally, my hyper-local area has a 2-mile beach break and one point wave that is a focal point for energy. The learners and beginners DO NOT belong at the focal point on a good day. End of story. There is 2 miles of beach to surf. All of those shoulder hopping photos are great examples of what not to do and what we see too often. Without etiquette, we are just a crowd of people fighting for the same thing and we all know that does not work. "blah blah blah" to your ignorant comment, not everything falls under one umbrella. If you are a beginner you DO NOT surf the best wave in town on a good day. If you disagree with that you should go back to the 80's when there were 100 million fewer people in the US and a whole lot less surfers.

 

Well stated. On point.

I'm an adult beginner. I started boogie boarding in the late 80s, but didn't start to stand up surf until a little over three years ago when I moved to California. I know better than to paddle out to the main peak at Swamis and I also know that I need to look BEFORE I even start to paddle to make sure someone inside me isn't going for it. Looking right before you get to your feet is too late.

I don't know what the answer is. Is the onus on our surf shop owners to give etiquette lessons when they sell a dude his first board? Is it on his buddies to give him the low down? Should they do some research on their own before they get in the water (YES!!)? Should they be regulated or educated by the locals (or both)? I think that it needs to be a combination of these things, but the bottom line is simply this. There are a LOT of f*cuking ignorant people in this world that don't have enough common sense to cross the road without looking both ways. Give these dipsh*ts a 40 pound longboard and let them paddle out the main peak is just going to be a disaster, no matter what.

 

Surfed today in front of the PowerPlant (not Warm Waters, I don't like big rocks. We also call it Stacks). Pretty consistently chest high + with light offshores. Plenty of waves from the SW and W to make it really fun and peaky. Caught it on a descending tide so it got better as the morning went on.

 

you sound like the kind of guy who looks for reasons to get aggrieved. I wish I knew where you surfed, I'd bring beginners on good days and block for them just to fuck with people like you.

 

You're a perfect example of what I'm talking about. You've been surfing for 3 years you say? And now you're on a forum calling people who aren't veteran water-studs like you dipshits and ignorant and whatever.