A bit of context on what you are about to see. I was wrapping shooting some surf pics Friday night. It was about 55 degrees air and water and misty and it was getting dark when this young couple shows up with a SUP and no wetsuits I knew there was about to be a show and I knew I couldn't leave. First the boyfriend paddles out and gets annihilated and comes right back in. Got some funny shots of him. Next he sends his girlfriend out there. She caught a lull and squirted right out the back. Now what. Here is what happened next. Enjoy!
Oh, man... that's brutal. Did you know you can actually tell the temperature of the water by the color of a Shoobie's skin? I watched that board bounce up and land right in the spot I though her head would be. Then a couple frames later she's got her hand on her head. Nailed it!
My son was getting out of the water and I had him run down to help her. Her clueless boyfriend was oblivious to the rocks she was heading for with the current. She got her feet under her and made it in. It was almost dark when this went down that's why the pictures are so grainy.
Sorry guys. You snooze you lose. It was a fairly epic sequence I captured of a young lady on a SUP getting destroyed by an overhead set wave as she paddled towards shore with her back turned to the ocean completely oblivious to the set coming to get her. She got picked up and thrown over the handlebars by the biggest wave to come in for about half an hour. A very very good candidate for Kookslams. It was up for about 48 hours here and on my instagram but I took it down due to some of the comments on instagram. Someone tagged the young lady and she did reply and was a totally good sport about it but I wasn't comfortable with the other comments coming in. The instagram post was seen and shared many many times. At the end of the day, she's somebody's daughter.
In all honesty it happens all the time and if people are that sensitive about it and they're probably sensitive about way too many things in life.
Now that the social media thing with this clip is long gone I will bring it back here briefly for those who missed it. Turn up the sound for full effect. Keep your comments respectable.
Haha that wasn't too bad. They're out in full effect tho u guys are right. I paddled around to test my sprained wrist. Saw couple of them bout 30 ft past the break. What sux is when I don't check the beach before leaving the island, cuz I see a line of cars w boards coming in. It's fomo n kookery, derived from fake news n morons
*Rant warning* I experienced some low class kookery during my before work session, and I have to get this **** off my chest so I can continue with my day. I paddle out a few minutes after 6am at my usual spot. This is not a named surf spot. It's a random house on a stretch of beach that I surf in front of because not many people go there. I paddle out, alone, into the middle of a 1/2 mile stretch of wide open, empty ocean. The surf is fun and I'm catching a ton of waves. Catching a lot of waves draws attention, and before long a few people paddle out around me. It's all good because everyone is staying spread out. Around 7:30 I see 2 people paddling out a little to my south. Keep in mind that I have been sitting in front of the same house for 1.5 hours at this point. It's a dad and a kid, both on short foam boards. They make it out and sit maybe 50ft south, up-drift from me. Dad can obviously surf, and the kid can hold their own as well. They drift closer and closer so I ride the current down the beach to keep some distance. I'm now giving up my spot to keep the peace. I'm ok with this. The swell is fun but inconsistent, and the good sets are at least a half hour apart. Eventually I see a lump on the horizon and I paddle out and north (away from them) to catch it. I turn around to catch the wave and it's looking solid. I pop up and am flying. This is the best wave of the session and I know it. I'm eyeing a section ahead of me when I see the kid out of the corner of my eye popping up maybe 10ft ahead. I have to punch through the wall and grip my board as hard as I can to keep from decapitating the kid. I get slammed, whatever. After the wave passes we are basically on top of each other. I don't know how we didn't hit. I look at the dad out the back and he's not aware that I almost offed his kid, but he obviously knew that the kid just stuffed me. So I paddle back to my spot, well, my new spot after they pushed me off my actual spot, and wait for the apology or at least the "sorry man" which never comes. They keep drifting towards me so I paddle around them. Then I hear splashing behind me. Now they're paddling against the current, staying 15 feet behind me. I sit for a second to see what they do and they are now trying to paddle around me, after pushing me 100 ft down the beach in the other direction? I start paddling up the beach, and now dad is trying to paddle battle me or something. He stays right on my hip. So I keep paddling. He eventually gives up, and I put about 100 ft between me and him. Then I hear him loudly say, "Let's go find somewhere else to surf". Yea no f****** ****, get lost idiot. I guess what really bothers me about this whole thing is 2 things: 1) I actively try not to vibe other surfers. I keep my distance, even at the expense of higher quality waves. I let waves go when I see someone on the inside turning for them. On really good day's I'll even sit for 5 minutes or so between waves so the guys on the inside can get some. I know that If I can avoid pissing people off, I'll have a better session and a better day. But I can't help it if someone else makes absolutely zero effort to reciprocate. I don't ever do it as an adult, but I know how to vibe someone the **** out of the water. Unfortunately that happened today. 2) I love seeing parents and kids in the lineup. I wish my folks did the same when I was little. HOWEVER, the kid is your responsibility in the water. If you don't teach them the rules of the road, you're going to piss people off, and your kid could get maimed. Fortunately no one got hurt, and I would never get pissed at a little kid trying to surf, but I will direct my full wrath at an entitled, irresponsible parent. Moral of the story: At the very least, if you **** up someone's wave, even if it maybe wasn't entirely your fault, give a "sorry dude". It's goes one hell of a long way. And if your kid ****s up someones wave, give a "sorry dude" on their behalf, to show that you're not an oblivious self-centered d-bag.
Dude, this sort of happened to me on July 2nd. In the summertime, I always avoid the much better beaches and head to my normal hangout beach to surf to avoid the crowds. It's never as good, but I'm willing to give up the quality to have wide open ocean. I paddled out at at 6 AM and was just having a blast. It was waist high, light offshore winds, a beautiful summer day for the log. Nobody in sight. At about 7 AM I see a couple kids start swimming a block down, and they keep looking over at me. Slowly but surely, they migrate to swimming directly in my path. After almost hitting them, I said "Hey guys, it's a big f*cking ocean, go swim somewhere else" and they left. But not even two waves later a couple guys come down and decide to fish directly in front of me. Like you, I paddled away and then another fisherman comes down. I try not to let stuff like that ruin the best morning I've had in a long time, but it's super frustrating. Can't wait for the water to get cold again!
